Metal Parts Found in Oil Pan: Inspection & Repair

Hello!
I found metal pieces in the oil pan and/or in the intake nozzle of the oil pump in my VW T3 camper van, which was manufactured in 1988 and has a 1.6 turbo diesel engine.
Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. I need the text to be able to translate it.

The problem was that the engine had insufficient oil pressure, almost none at idle, and too little at higher RPMs.
The warning light and the buzzer activate when the engine is warm and the RPM is low.
When measured with a pressure gauge, the oil pressure is actually too low.

It happened suddenly, right after the "hibernation" period.
Last year, everything was still fine.

Background: We once installed a TDI engine from a Golf.
It worked perfectly, and the car has since driven thousands of kilometers without any problems.
It's not a big deal for me because the vehicle owner actually sourced the engine themselves.

Okay, so they are small pieces of metal, and the thickness is exactly 0.5 mm.
Not magnetic, the material is very soft, and I think it's probably a bearing race or something similar.
Based on my feeling, it is likely an alloy primarily composed of tin.

The connecting rod bearings still look reasonably good, as does the oil pump.
That would then be something that could potentially be renewed or refurbished if I take it apart.

It doesn't make sense if I can't determine the origin of the fragments.

It would be great if someone could remember those old engines and give me a tip about where they might have come from.

Hello.

"I once experienced something similar with an Audi 80 TD Type 81. It was the rear bearing shell of the crankshaft. The reason for its disintegration was unclear. The shell is pressed in from the front using a special tool. To do this, the oil pan needs to be removed so you can see that the oil hole in the bearing seat of the engine block aligns with the bearing shell."

You can tell if the rear shell is broken when you remove the vacuum pump, which is driven by the auxiliary shaft. The bearing shell will then be visible towards cylinder 3, or it may no longer be there. The front bearing shell can only be seen if you remove the bearing cover with the oil seal. This is how you can check for play.



Regards, Mpire.

Hi!

Yes, that's correct. The candidate receives 100 points.
The oil pan is already removed.
and I just removed the vacuum pump.
and the intermediate shaft actually has about 3 mm of play in the teeth.
Okay, that's a pain. Can you give me some more information about the repair?
Bzgl. Special tool?
Press the connector from the timing chain side.

It looks like they're taking the engine out of a T3, and probably also replacing the intermediate shaft, either with a new one or a used one.

Hi Steffen,

Since you've already noticed that the socket is very thin, this is going to be a delicate operation that requires a lot of skill.

First, the camshaft; this fits all BM 827 engine blocks. So, you can use it with any 4-cylinder diesel or gasoline engine that has a distributor, as they are all the same.

It will be difficult to find the tool needed, especially if you don't have a local mechanic who can lend it to you. However, if you have a lathe nearby, it's much easier to quickly fabricate such a tool. I'm not sure if you can insert the long drift pin into the "channel" of the intermediate shaft on a T3, using the rear panel as a guide.

But it can also be done this way .
You need a washer with a flange that has an inner diameter that precisely matches the diameter of the bushing, so it can fit snugly on it. The outer diameter of the washer should be approximately 1mm larger than the outer diameter of the bushing. This washer will then transmit the pressing force to the bushing. The washer needs a 10.2mm hole for an M10 threaded rod. Then, you need another washer that is 0.1mm smaller than the outer diameter of the bushing, but also has a flange that rests on the block, and also has a 10.2mm hole. Insert a threaded rod approximately 120mm long, put two nuts on it, and tighten them together with a ratchet wrench.

Just make sure the hole for the oil channel aligns correctly, and that the bushing doesn't twist when you pull it in.

I hope you can follow my explanations .

Regards, Mpire.

Hello!
Thank you for the response.
Okay, I have my own lathe, so that shouldn't be a problem. It's relatively easy to make a disc like that and drill a hole in the center.
I also have a used intermediate shaft that I have left over.

I also understood the principle of "Rep."
because I assume that the intermediate shaft will definitely need to be replaced.
It remains to be seen whether I will be able to get it out with the built-in motor or not.
Do I need to measure the length of the center shaft and how much space there is behind it?
or whether I can perhaps adjust the engine so that it fits through the license plate compartment.


I will report.

Be careful, I've heard that these VW bearing shells are no longer available in a finished state; they need to be reamed to the correct diameter.

I am not familiar with how the accessory ports look.

Quote:

I am not familiar with how the accessory sockets look.

You can also find them at a motor overhaul specialist.

Hi!
Yes, the said that the sockets don't exist and have never existed from VW.
I once posted a sentence on E-Blöd.
Unfortunately, I won't have the opportunity to use them.
because I have to spend the next two weeks in Stuttgart. My father needs to take care of that.

What I've noticed is:
The bushings have a steel ring on the outside, likely for stability during the pressing process.
and the inner layer is half a millimeter thick of tin.
The second socket is only partially functional and seems to be corroded, possibly due to chemical exposure.
So, it's not just worn out from mechanical use, it actually looks that way.
als wäre die wie teilweise weg-geätzt. Also die Zinn-Schicht. SThat's weird.
Can someone explain this to me?

Steffen G wrote:

The second socket is only partially functional and seems to be corroded, possibly due to chemical exposure. So, it's not just worn out from mechanical use, it actually looks that way. als wäre die wie teilweise weg-geätzt. Also die Zinn-Schicht. SThat's weird. Can someone explain this to me?

Hi Steffen! That "chemically etched" appearance of the bearing shell is likely caused by prolonged exposure to water in the oil, which can happen with a defective head gasket (which is common in the T3). It's not uncommon for T3 bearings to crack when exposed to very hot oil, above 110°C (230°F).

Is the engine from the Golf a TD or just a regular diesel? ATTENTION: The "D" engine from the Golf does NOT have piston cooling nozzles, so they won't last long in a T3 that's constantly running at full throttle! The Golf TD engine *does* have these piston cooling nozzles!

Hello!

It's done; the car has been on a test drive for a few days now.
I checked everything again today, installed the protective cover, and now everything is okay.
The oil pressure is back to normal.

So, the engine has oil injection nozzles for piston cooling, which means it's a true turbo engine.
I ordered some bushings for electric motors from a motor repair company, but then they disappeared with the incompetent shipping company GLS, only to reappear later.
The installation was relatively straightforward; I had one bolt turned, as you can see in the picture.
And then, carefully screw it in by the threads on the Wedi lid. They fit perfectly even without any modifications.
The engine was lowered slightly, and it fit perfectly under the bumper.

Thank you for the kind help and information!

Hello.

Great, I'm glad it worked. You now also have a good tool for future projects.




Regards, Mpire.