Oil Leak Valve Cover AAT for Audi A6 2.5 TDI

Dear forum members,

I'm having the following problem with my AAT engine:
Oil leak dependent on load, occurring through the valve cover gasket.

To get to the root of the problem, I tried the following as a test:

- Engine wash
- I have the hose for the crankcase ventilation system, which is connected to the valve cover.
is attached, and then passes through the cyclone filter and the pressure regulating valve.
...ends up directly inside a metal container, so that it doesn't reach the engine.
to avoid creating excessive overpressure or vacuum.
- After a short drive, a small amount of oil still leaked from the front.
at the rear end of the valve cover, on the intake manifold side.

Therefore, I have the following questions for you:
- How is the valve cover gasket properly replaced on an AAT/AEL engine?
(I had already replaced mine before, but I didn't use any sealant paste during the installation.)
Furthermore, when the rear timing belt cover is installed, you can access the front of the engine compartment.
Timing belt not properly aligned) Which parts do you remove before installing the timing belt?
Valve covers with the new gasket? Which other areas do you seal additionally?
Caulk removed?
- hat jemand ein den original Reparaturleitfaden - Audi 100 A6 (C4) 5 Zyl. Diesel engine.
Mechanics manual (2.5L TDI) as a PDF or a copy.
- Has anyone ever replaced the pressure regulating valve that is installed in the valve cover?
swapped or tested. A round plate is installed at the bottom of the valve cover.
secured with two screws. After loosening the screws, I was able to...
"Unable to pry off or rotate the plate. Would appreciate any information on how to do this."
- Has anyone else experienced a similar problem with their AEL/AAT engine?
"a large amount of oil has leaked from the valve cover gasket; this occurs both when idling and..."
At high engine speeds, there was no increased crankcase pressure at the oil filler neck.
to determine. The oil loss was most severe after driving on the highway at full throttle.

Thank you very much in advance for your help.

"I always apply a small amount of sealant to both sides of the camshaft bearing housing, at the crescent-shaped area on each corner. If the valve cover gasket comes loose and falls out of its groove, I use a spot of spray adhesive (like Pattex) to glue the gasket back into the valve cover. Then, carefully drain the oil first from the timing chain side, then slowly from the ESP side, making sure the gasket is properly seated."

The engine bleed should be simple to operate by just blowing air through it; there's no valve inside.

Thank you for the reply. I installed the "old" valve cover gasket exactly as you described. By the way, there's also a mention in a repair manual that sealant should be applied to those specific corners. Additionally, I installed four new rubber rings for the four valve cover screws. The installation went well so far.

"After the installation, I've noticed the following: The engine is definitely much tighter now than before; however, there's still a minimal amount of oil leaking from the valve cover on the exhaust manifold side. I want to repeat the process with a new gasket. The old one I reinstalled was from Reinz and had already been used for approximately 40,000 km. What gaskets do you use? Are original VAG gaskets better than those available from aftermarket suppliers? I would appreciate your experiences on this."

Quote:

Which seals do you use? Are original VAG seals better than those from the accessory trade? I would be very grateful for your experiences in this regard.

If they are from the same manufacturer, then no.

There shouldn't be any problems with Elring or Reinz. Both companies are used as original equipment (OE) in millions of vehicles.

Hi.

As far as I know, Volvo no longer uses a gasket for the cover. However, I haven't really needed it yet – I do remove the cover occasionally to find Top Dead Center (TDC) or adjust the valve timing.

"Usually, I verschandeln the sealing surface thoroughly and then apply a round of this flexible sealant – ELRING Curil T (green) – and it creates a tight seal."

The part, which is presumably the same cap as used by Volvo (I assume it's the same), is first inserted into the ZR cover on the left side – then you can easily place the cap in position.

"Regarding documentation - I received some documents for a VW/Audi engine a long time ago (or you should be able to find them online), but now I have the original documentation from Volvo, and there are a few minor differences."

Best regards,

How many hours has the engine been running for?

What is the oil consumption like?

Mileage: approximately 215,000 km. Oil consumption: about 1 liter per 5000 km, although most of that leaked out from the valve cover. Consequently, the engine and transmission were always well maintained.

In Volvos, it's the "AEL" engines, and I'm not sure how consistent their performance is. But – I've had about 10 of them so far – regardless of whether they have 100,000 or 500,000 km on them, none of them have ever burned engine oil... so they are very well designed in that respect (the 5-cylinder gasoline engines that Volvo used back then all had high oil consumption, crankshaft issues, etc.).

If you notice oil leaking from the valve cover, then there's quite a bit coming out.

Best regards,