Brake Lines VW Golf 3: Replacement Guide

Hello.

The next vehicle inspection (TÜV) is coming up soon, and my brake lines from the master cylinder (BKV) to the rear axle (HA) need to be replaced.

Of course, I would have them installed by someone who knows what they're doing.

Unfortunately, he works for a different car brand and isn't as familiar with VW-specific parts.

You can buy pre-cut copper pipes online. Has anyone here had any experience with that?

I need the two brake lines for a Volkswagen Golf III TDI, manufactured in 1997, one running from the master cylinder to the rear axle, and the other running from the axle to the drum brakes.

The vehicle has ABS and drum brakes, but does NOT have a load-sensing proportional valve.

Do I only need to pay attention to the correct length, or are there also different diameters to consider?

THANK YOU

Peter.

Is there a 5-meter roll of material available from Volkswagen?

- measure the lengths you need for your project.

- Ask your mechanic if he can also crimp/bend VW hoses.
He should be able to do it.

- Disconnect existing lines, bend new lines alongside them, etc.
Trim the wires generously.

Hello.
Thank you for the information.
Unfortunately, my mechanic cannot perform the rim job due to a lack of equipment.
That's why my plan was to use the pre-formed cables.
After that, only bending and venting are required on-site.

Quote:

that's why my plan was to use the pre-crimped wires. after that, just bend and vent it on site

.

---> have it edge-welded. A nice task for the apprentice .

Is it actually easier to replace the entire brake line or to cut out the defective section and install a new one?

When replacing it, you would have to flange directly on the underside of the vehicle. Would that work well?

Best regards,

blackblizzard wrote:

Is it actually easier to replace the entire brake line or to remove a defective section and install a new one? When replacing it, you would have to flange directly on the underside of the vehicle. Would that work well? best regards

It depends on the vehicle. For example, in an older Ford Fiesta, you would theoretically almost have to remove the transmission or steering rack if you want to install the new lines "properly."

In such a case, it's better to use replacement parts with connectors, provided the rest is in good condition. Attaching the edge trim to the underbody is easy with the appropriate tools.

I would completely replace any accessible wiring.

Hi!
So far, everything is correct.
Tip:
There are also brake lines made of copper-nickel alloy. They cost about twice as much.
You can even do the edging with a cheap [expletive] thing like that, for just 20 euros.
"Many hobbyists have something like that."
But it's important to make sure everything is done properly.
Furthermore, the copper-nickel pipe is significantly easier to bend and fit, especially for beginners.

"...I would strongly advise against using cheap crimping pliers. I have one myself, which was specifically recommended for hobbyists restoring classic cars. With those, it's a gamble whether you'll get a good crimp or not... although, the pre-cut material from KuNiFer doesn't cost that much. It's just a shame about the time and sometimes also the effort involved..."

Best regards, Styrian.

Can you recommend a border crimping tool for private use? It should be compact so that it can be used directly on the underside of the material.

I would prefer to stick with standard steel pipes.
Best regards,

Sure, I can help you with that. Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English.
"KS-Tools Professional Brake Line Bleeding Kit, 15-piece, Hydraulic."

... or from Hazet ... probably costs more than double the price.

Hi!

I have one from Facom.
It used to cost around 300 euros.