CPU Idle: Hack and Optimize Performance

Hi!

Due to the incorrect entry in the control unit, I removed and re-checked the pump.
After the installation, however, it now suddenly has a jerky idle (which occurs rhythmically), the great preheating indicator blinks constantly, and when you give it gas, it regulates back down very poorly.
It starts up perfectly.
What could it be?
Everything was installed exactly as it was.


cu: Marko

Hi!

After VAG error analysis:

- Sensor for slide position - G149, implausible signal, intermittent.
auft. Error.

If this sensor is defective, is it replaceable, and can I easily obtain a replacement?


cu: Marko

Hello Marko,
The injector is located in the pump. That's the part that Gustav already mentioned (the triangular screw...).
There have been several posts about the hiring process here on the forum.
The search function is your friend .

Best regards, Rudi.

Hi,

diesel.gustav wrote:

A particularly critical functional component is the quantity adjustment mechanism.

That's why the 3-point screw is used. The position of the quantity adjustment mechanism determines the injection quantity. The orange plastic plug in the mechanism is not an adequate positioning aid. We haven't been able to go any further than that.
This is the punishment for your stupid and rude private message to me .

Would you be able to read and understand the answers of other people [url] if you could, you could answer your question yourself now. [/url]
Without a diagnostic system, it will be difficult to reattach the cover correctly using the adjustment mechanism.

I recommend using the search function with the keywords "rule-based systems" and "DIY*".

[url]/viewtopic.php?t=658&highlight=diy*http://www.dieselschrauber.de/mengenstell.html
[/url][url]

The following may be nonsense.
http://www.dieselschrauber.de/Solldaten_4_Zylinder_VE.htmlThe RWG can be easily mounted with a diagnostic system, as shown in the following example:
a) [/url]
Check the setpoint values in measurement block 19.
b) Ignition Off - On, read measurement block 19 (when the ignition is switched from Off to On, the EDC performs a switchgear check and stores the measurement values in block 19).
c) Do some quick research and compare values if possible.
e) [No translation needed, as it's likely a placeholder or abbreviation.]
d) Move the cover with the RWG and proceed to step b).
e) Be happy and buy me a case of beer.
Clarification is needed.

}Once again, I'm asking you not to start a new thread every day on the same topic!}

Without greetings,
Rainer.

Dear Rainer!

Thanks in advance for the not-so-helpful threads.
If you had bothered to read what I wrote, you would know that I didn't touch or adjust the EDC (the upper part).
If everything is working as it should and this error suddenly occurs, I need to know if it's possible to repair or replace the defective "G149" component.
I suspect that the problem is more likely due to a broken pipe or a malfunction.

Furthermore: Affected dogs bark .
I still hope that you will soon achieve administrator status in terms of behavior.
Okay, the wiser person gives in, and I think that's you, Rainer!


BEST REGARDS: Marko

Good luck.

Hi!

I consulted the links again.
I have already tried some of the things described there.
As I said, I didn't tamper with the interlocking system (e.g., adjust the control levers).
Only forward or backward (quantity).

The joke is: before, it was working fine. I could shift into forward and reverse without anything flashing, and the idle was smooth without any jerking.
Only after the pump was reinstalled did it start working.
When the engine is cold, it starts, runs for about 1-2 minutes, and then it stutters.
Could it also be caused by the temperature sensor, which would then trigger the "G149" error?

I am grateful for any suggestions!


cu:Marko

Hello,

Quote:

As I said, I didn't tamper with the interlocking system

(I didn't adjust any levers, etc.).
Only forward or backward (quantity).

I don't understand what you mean... First, you say you didn't tamper with the point machine, and then you write that you adjusted a certain amount(?) forward or backward }.

Have you loosened the triangular screw on the top cover of the fuel injection pump (when facing the front of the car), where the cable with all the wires goes in, or not?

Best regards, Rainer.

Hi Rainer!

I hope I'm not messing anything up, but in essence, the pumps are almost identical.
I solved the triangular screw.
You have the option to remove the small cover (attached with 3 screws plus a triangular screw) to access the metering unit (where the wires enter).
I haven't opened that one.
I only loosened the remaining screws to remove the pump housing.
to be rescheduled.

If it came across the wrong way, please accept my apologies.

cu: Marko

P.S. What is the required resistance (in Ohms) for the temperature sensor?
have?

Hello,

Marko wrote:

I have solved the triangular puzzle. You have the option to remove the small cover (attached with 3 screws plus a triangular screw) to access the metering unit (where the wires enter). I haven't opened that one. I only loosened the remaining screws to remove the pump housing. to be moved.

That's exactly the problem.

Quote:

The RWG can be easily mounted with a diagnostic system, as shown in the following example: a) http://www.dieselschrauber.de/Solldaten_4_Zylinder_VE.html Check how the setpoint values are in measurement block 19. b) Ignition Off - On, read measurement block 19 (when the ignition is switched from Off to On, the EDC performs a switchgear check and stores the measurement values in block 19). c) Do some quick checks and compare values if appropriate. d) Move the cover with the RWG and proceed to step b. e) Be happy and buy me a case of beer

.

It looks like it's time for a case of beer soon.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hi Rainer!

If it works, we'll meet up!
But why did it work before? I had done exactly the same thing before, in the same way. Everything worked then, and there was no stuttering, even on X kilometer long trips. Only after reassembling everything did the error message appear and the stuttering start!????
I've also marked the places where the previous setting was.

cu: Marko

P.S. You can start it however you like (turn on the engine), but it will sputter until it stops (because the pump is pushed too far back).

Hello,

Markings made with an awl or similar tool are only a rough guide to provide a starting point for alignment.

The actual adjustment of the position moves in steps of less than 0.1mm.

If you can read an idle injection amount of 4-5mg per injection with a warm engine, the air conditioning (or similar loads) turned off, and an unadjusted injection amount, I would consider the adjustment to be successful.

Quote:

P.S. You can start it however you want (turn on the engine), but it will sputter until it stops (the pump is pushed too far back)

You might have another issue. In that case, I would only adjust the position based on the values from the initial check (MWB 19), because adjusting it at idle only makes sense if the idle is stable.

If your G149 error is resolved, I can then only speculate about what might be causing the rough idle.
- Dirt particles in the pump may have migrated to the injectors and impaired their function.
- Injection pump not properly tightened, loose toothed wheel on the crankshaft, excessive slack in the timing belt?
- Were parts of the pump incorrectly assembled after falling out?

Best regards, Rainer.

PS: If you decide to get a new fuel injection pump and the old one is completely functional, and all the threads are okay, I would be interested in buying your pump. How many kilometers has it been used?

Correction: As mentioned above, it must be MWB 19, not 13.

Hi Rainer!

You might be right about the dirt, I hope not.
I checked the timing belt tension, etc., and even removed the valve cover to lock the camshaft.
Everything is exactly as specified in the official documentation.
The impeller and the rest of the components are all attached.
The pump was assembled exactly as it was before, when it was working.

What do you think about the temperature sensor?
Because, when it's cold, it starts up!??
That's why my question above is about the value.


cu: Marko

P.S. 250,000 km.

Marko wrote:

You might be right about the dirt, I hope not...

Very bad... If things go wrong, even a single grain of sand can be enough.
http://www.die-bibliothek-der-technik.de/imperia/md/content/bdt/leseproben/6.pdf
The pore size of typical diesel filters is 3-5 millionths of a meter.

Quote:

What do you think about the temperature sensor? Because, when it's cold, it starts up!?? That's why my question above is about the value.

Just try disconnecting the two wires for the temperature sensor from the pump connector for testing purposes.

Best regards, Rainer.

Rainer K. wrote:

Possibly, you have another error. In this case, I would only adjust the position based on the values from the initial check (MWB 13), because an adjustment at idle only makes sense if the idle is stable.

Hello.

certainly, I understand.

The RWG voltage readings during the start-up check are practically completely independent of the position of the valve on the pump body.

Because in this process, only the relationship between the signal current of the interlocking system and the track circuit voltage is checked, as well as the track circuit voltage at the minimum and maximum limits.

Even if the rest of the pump is missing and only the bare MSW is connected to the cable, the check might still result in "OK".

A fault originating within the pump is only detected if the short-circuit rings located under the pump cover have been adjusted too far, or if the full range (min - max) is restricted or, possibly, too stiff (or too loose -> spring return problem).

Therefore, I would suggest removing the pump cover and manually moving the measurement short-circuit ring to check for this kind of issue.
And while doing so, be sure to remove any foreign objects from the RWG area.

Hi Rainer & Ulf!

I once disconnected the cables from the temperature sensor, but it had no effect.
I also moved the measurement short-circuit ring, but it's stiff (which is normal).
Still the same.




cu: Marko

P.S. What would happen if pins 2 and 3 were to touch each other or short to ground?