TDI 1Z: Adjust Injection Timing by Removing Injector Pump

Hello everyone,

I've been driving a 1Z TDI engine in my VW T3 for 80,000 km, and I haven't had any problems.
Two weeks ago, I had a fault code related to the fuel temperature sensor.
defective. After I replaced the resistor in the pump, ...
The problem had been fixed. However, I've been experiencing issues for a while now.
'When starting the engine and since the temperature sensor was replaced.'
It only starts after an extremely long cranking period and has noticeably lost power.
Reading the start of injection timing in the basic settings shows only...
specify the value for the fuel temperature and the value for the injection start.
stands at 00.
In idle mode, the injection start regulator is set to 60% (which is 50% above the target value).
If I disconnect the needle lift sensor, the injection timing changes.
Values that are far too late.
So, I concluded that the injection timing is completely off.
if I don't understand how it could have changed, because before...
For about six months, everything was fine.
Last week, I removed the timing belt and replaced it with a new one.
mounted (with the fixed nozzle and fuel injection pump), because I suspected that...
that the belt might have a broken tooth. Everything is back together now.
and the same problem.
Then I wanted to check the injection timing mechanically, but unfortunately, I couldn't.
to find out that my VW2066 adapter is used to attach the pressure gauge to the pump.
has a different thread than the closing screw.

Does anyone know what kind of adapter is needed here, or does anyone have one available?
Is there a Stuttgart available?

Now, I'd like to stir things up a bit, but I'm not sure how to go about it yet.
The third screw of the ESP bracket should be located here, as it's positioned between...
Pump and motor, or not (one on the belt side at the top, one at the back on the bracket).
The 3rd question mark?

Can someone perhaps tell me exactly where the third screw is located?
How do you get there?

Thank you very much, and greetings from Pleidelsheim.

Rene.

1988 Multivan TDi.

I'll definitely check out those screws tonight!

Regarding the fuel injection timing, while it's possible to set the initial timing statically using a timing light, this is only for a basic starting point! According to experience in this forum, although static adjustment is common, it can still lead to starting problems, etc. (see Hähnlein's cold start thread). It's better to adjust the fuel injection timing dynamically using a diagnostic system.

Tonight, I'll also check on that meter adapter. I have one from Bosch!

Hi there,

Did I misunderstand something?
For me, the description strongly suggests a problem with the crankshaft bolts.

Quote:

For a while now, I've been having problems. "When starting the engine and since the temperature sensor was replaced." It only starts after an extremely long cranking period and has noticeably lost power. So, I concluded that the injection timing is completely off. I don't understand how he could have changed, because just before... For half a year, everything was fine.

So, do you still have the old screw in there?
Then, leave the engine off until you know that everything is okay.

see search function.

greetings
dieter (T3 Syncro 16 AFN)

Hello,

Quote:

for me, the description strongly suggests the crankshaft bolt issue.

I would say the same!
Otherwise: https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=3195

Best regards, Rainer.

multivan_tdi wrote:

Does anyone perhaps know what kind of adapter is needed here, or does anyone have one available? Is there a

available in Stuttgart?

Hi Rene,

I can basically lend you the adapter, but it's better to use a diagnostic system for this. Just build Ulf's adapter (even I managed to do it without any prior knowledge).

multivan_tdi wrote:

Now I would like to stir things up, but I don't know yet how to proceed. The third screw of the ESP bracket should be located here, as it's positioned between... Pump and motor, or not (one on the belt side at the top, one at the back on the bracket). the 3rd. ?) ?

You can reach the third one from the front, through the impeller (at the bottom). The problem is more likely the fourth one, which is on the other side (it's hard to reach). But with a universal joint wrench from Hazet, it's not a problem at all.


Make sure to check the crankshaft bolt. It really sounds like there might be problems in that area. Try feeling the head of the crankshaft bolt. If it's completely flat, that's a bad sign -> the crankshaft needs to be resurfaced.

take a look here again:

http://home.arcor.de/sgrafen/salatoel/kw_schraube/kw_schraube.html

Hi,
A diagnostic adapter is probably not necessary, so where would the mentioned values for temperature and injection timing come from?
The static setting, on the other hand, essentially only serves to ensure that the engine runs at all, thus allowing for fine-tuning via a diagnostic tool like VAG-Com.
If you are not entirely confident in these measurements, you can still verify them using an analog multimeter, as described in the technical article.
The KW screw should definitely be checked, as mentioned several times before. At 80,000 km, a premature timing belt replacement is a logical consideration.

christians wrote:

Hi, A diagnostic adapter is probably not necessary, so where would the mentioned values for temperature and injection timing come from?

Hi,

Oops, I seem to have overlooked something .

Hi, thank you very much for the answers.

I intended to fine-tune it using a level shifter cable and diagnostic software.
'But the measured value block for the start of injection actually shows zero in the basic setting.'
Therefore, I think the value is simply too far off.

I will definitely check the KW screw, but wouldn't I have already noticed something if there was a problem?
Has it been a long time since the engine failure?
If the clutch wheel slips momentarily, then by re-engaging the gears, I could have corrected the alignment and at least had it working for the next start.
Everything must be okay.
If the crankshaft pulley occasionally slips, then nothing should have been aligned before removing the timing belt, and in principle, there should have been very little power output (although...).
Adjusting the valve timing might not make much of a difference to him, especially since he has a turbocharger.
Or am I wrong in my reasoning?

Here's another question about the KW screw: How can I tell if something is wrong with it?
Okay, if it has a strength of 12.4, then I don't need to worry.
But if it has a size 8.8, how would I tell if it has already been stretched out?

Regards,

Rene.

'If you replaced the timing belt, did you have the crankshaft exactly at the top dead center (TDC) position? If that was the case, and the camshaft alignment tool fit perfectly, and the locking pin for the fuel injection pump fit perfectly, then the likelihood of the crankshaft being misaligned is quite low!'

The most likely cause for a '0' being displayed in the measurement blocks is an excessively late injection timing! (See Heahnlein's cold start thread.) He experienced a similar issue where the static method with a dial indicator was perfectly within tolerance, but the dynamic measurement was completely off.

Is there any air trapped somewhere in the fuel system?

multivan_tdi wrote:

If the crankshaft pulley occasionally slips, then nothing should have fit properly before removing the timing belt, and in principle, there should have been very little power output

.

Hi Rene,

The KW wheel doesn't simply slip because a groove on the KW and a "ridge" on the KW wheel prevent it from rotating. If the screw is loose, over time it will wear away this groove, which can then cause a delayed start of fuel injection.

multivan_tdi wrote:

Another question about the KW screw: how can I tell if something is wrong with it?

Please provide the link you are referring to so I can translate the text.

multivan_tdi wrote:

Okay, if it has a strength of 12.4, then I don't need to worry.

It depends on when it was changed. If the torque wrench shaft was already worn out, a new screw won't fix the problem.

multivan_tdi wrote:

But if it has a size 8.8, how can I tell if it has ever been loose before?

Then you'll have to take it apart anyway, and then you can look at the crankshaft stub .

Hi,

when I installed the timing belt (and even before I did).
(which I had just lowered) was locked in the northwest position, and I also...
trying to suppress the feelings, but this is difficult due to the cramped...
(The space constraints of the engine, which is positioned at a rather slanted angle, weren't quite perfectly resolved) and...
The barbed fitting went perfectly into the pump. The marking and the ridge on it were helpful.
Not entirely satisfied, as there was a slight misalignment of about 2-3 mm when removing the strap.
It was accurate when I first installed it, but after 2 rounds, it started to drift, requiring me to adjust the belt.
When tightened evenly, they were again approximately 2-3mm. Does this really fit 100% for you?
Sure?
Unfortunately, the van is in the way, and I won't be able to get to the screw before next Wednesday.
to check and release the pump.
I'm almost afraid it's the KW screw, since the pump seems to be working perfectly.
sitting there, and the injection timing had definitely been correct before.
If the timing mark is misaligned, does that mean I need to adjust the crankshaft pulley (without the belt)?
can it wobble slightly back and forth?

Thank you also for the quick and helpful responses; this forum is...
Better than any VW workshop...

Regards,

Rene.

Hi Rene,

Make sure to check the KW screw . I could lend you the VW tool 3099 to hold the KW in place (I'm often in Darmstadt and Wiesbaden).

However, I would still like to re-examine the timing: If the crankshaft (KW) rotates during the tensioning of the new timing belt, there is one tooth too many between the crankshaft and the ESP wheel. Consequently, the pump is then too late relative to the crankshaft. While the fuel injection start can be adjusted using the pump adjustment range, it's uncertain whether this adjustment will be sufficient . Perhaps the pump is slightly too late, and this is only now becoming noticeable due to the temperatures . Set the crankshaft to top dead center (OT) and see if the locking pin fits! If it doesn't, then either the crankshaft bolt or the timing needs to be adjusted .

Here's another tip for timing belt replacement: First, rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise (marking approximately 1 cm before TDC), then place the timing belt, and when attempting to place the belt on the water pump pulley, return the crankshaft to TDC (holding the timing belt taut with your hand ). Then, the number of teeth between the crankshaft and the ESP will be correct.

Hi, I finally had some time to do it again today.
to take a look at my van.
I'm afraid you were right, it looks like a KW screw...
I'm all done for now, I'll provide more details later...

Regards,

Rene

Hi Rene,

Oh dear, the pinnacle of German engineering has caught you... my condolences. Well, hopefully the engine hasn't been further damaged with valve damage, or anything like that. The crankshaft journal can be ground flat while the crankshaft is still installed, but you could also disassemble everything yourself and have your friend, who's knowledgeable, take the van to get the crankshaft worked on, .