Golf 4 Engine Swap: 110PS to 150PS PD.

Can anyone tell me if it's generally possible to carry out such a renovation without major difficulties?
Good connections exist with a VW workshop (friend).
My old engine is slowly starting to fail, and I might be able to get a replacement with 150 horsepower and a 6-speed transmission, with only 30,000 km on it, for €2300, including the engine control unit and wiring harness.

Sure, no problem.

Frank.

'The WFS will spit in your soup.'

Are you looking here?

I'm not actually sure where the problem with the WFS lies.
My friend is getting me a license that's valid for 24 hours, and then the WFS will be adjusted using VAGCOM.
What worries me more is the CAN bus, as I don't have one.

"If you can get the entire wiring harness, control unit, instrument cluster, transmission, and the whole engine for that price, I would definitely go for it. That sounds really good. If you have connections with VW, they should be able to answer some of your questions. Otherwise, buy the engine and resell it yourself if it doesn't work out; you can only make a profit. (A small tip: use eb...com to sell it. The Americans can't be stopped when they hear 'Pumpe Düse,' even if they have problems with the cetane number of their diesel. I've even sold an engine to New York before, and I can help out in that way if needed...)"
But I'd rather drive it myself; it's a wonderful thing!
Good luck! By the way, why is yours giving up?

The WFS will spit in your soup.

Are you looking here}?

Nonsense!

The conversion isn't a problem, but you should have some skill and be able to read wiring diagrams. Unfortunately, VW sometimes has errors in the diagrams, so you need to be able to think things through.

If you want to install the PD_150, you will need:
- Complete engine and transmission, turbocharger pressure regulation, hoses for the intercooler.
-Lima (bracket position differs between PD and VEP)
-Turbo
- LLK (located in front of the climate control condenser, not like in all other G4 TDIs, which is in front of the right front wheel!)
-alternative front lip (with a transmission cooling channel and a larger air intake for the radiator).
- Wiring harness
Engine control unit.
- You should have at least the FN-3 brake system (288mm) installed (you will have the 280mm FS-III). For that, you need the wheel bearing housings, calipers, pads, and rotors for the front.
-If you don't have ESP (Electronic Stability Program), you need to contact a good tuner (I can gladly send you my tuner's number via private message) to see if they can disable the ESP function in your car's control module (MSG). For some models, this is possible without any problems. Otherwise, the MSG will malfunction due to the missing ESP.
-WFS can be adjusted at any VW location in approximately 5-10 minutes. You just need to bring all the necessary keys and the plastic adapter.
- Other pens, the PD weighs more than your 110.
- The TÜV (German technical inspection authority) will immediately register the modification if it is compliant with Volkswagen standards. It is best to have the TÜV inspection done at a Volkswagen service center, as they can immediately inform the inspector that only genuine VW parts were used.

Okay, I think I haven't forgotten anything!

You can keep the drive shafts; they are all the same if you have the 2motion system. The exhaust manifold can also be connected to the Oxikat system, and it's also standardized.
The ABS control unit must be connected to the main control unit (MSG) via CAN, depending on the vehicle's year of manufacture. This is indicated in the wiring diagrams. If necessary, it may need to be reprogrammed by a tuner.

Okay, first of all, thanks Julian, that's quite a statement!
I have all the wiring diagrams, and as you correctly guessed, I have the FS III brake system.
You mean I definitely have to retrofit it because of the ESP (Electronic Stability Program)?
What about the fuel system? I believe the 150 hp model still has a return cooling system or something similar.
Quite a few things are piling up, and the WFS is probably the least of the problems!

Oops... I forgot that!

The PD has a pre-charge pump in the tank. I don't know if you can retrofit that to your tank, but I think you can, since all the tanks should be identical. Ask http://www.r-a-r.de; they should know about this.
'Your VEP also has a return line, which can still be used. You just need to wire the pump in the tank and get some other lines from the diesel filter to the engine.'

Well... yours doesn't have ESP. The PD_150 will certainly have ESP, since it was once standard equipment. Now, if you don't retrofit the ESP system, some pins on the MSG (Main System Module) will not be connected, and that's when the MSG starts producing error messages. I don't know if it will still run in 'limp home' mode in that case.
You can also retrofit ESP, but that will be a lot of work.

Simpler: The older MSGs could be ordered with or without ESP (ESP was optional). During this period, it's easy to program MSGs, for example using a VAS 5052, to disable the ESP. This allows you to release the pins, and the MSG will function correctly without any error messages.
We did something similar just recently when we converted a 1.6 engine to a 1.8T.

Here's what else comes to mind:

Make sure the MSG (Motor Steuergerät - Engine Control Unit) is from the purchased engine and that it hasn't been involved in any accidents. Airbag deployments can lead to a permanent lock of the MSG. Also, avoid using an engine with an automatic transmission, as reprogramming is usually not possible.

If something is unclear or doesn't work, many tuners resort to installing a completely new version of the original software.

You can still cancel the ESP (Electronic Stability Program) order, and in some other European countries, the vehicles are available as standard without ESP.

Okay,
First of all, thank you to everyone, and especially to Julian.

I'd like to explain now how I even came up with the idea of changing the engine.

I bought my V4 last April with 126,000 kilometers on the odometer, and it has had an Oettinger chip installed since then, increasing the power to 136 horsepower. Everything seemed to be in order when I bought it, at least nothing that I noticed.
'About half a year ago, I started hearing a noise, specifically when accelerating and turning to the right. The noise eventually settled at a certain level and, while I got somewhat used to it, it always bothered me. In addition, when turning right into a driveway (with a slightly higher curb), I could hear a loud clunking sound coming from the left front wheel. Something definitely wasn't right.'
After my friend, who's a VW service technician, had my Golf inspected and had a new emissions test done last week, I thought my car was finally in perfect condition! But then it happened again: the car was noisy, the engine vibrated like crazy, it squeaked when starting and braking, and when accelerating, there was also a whistling sound. I was pretty sure that the engine and transmission were broken!
I blamed my friend, assuming that the engine had failed to reach its maximum RPM during the emissions test. However, he claimed that it had been making that much noise all along.
Yesterday, he called and said I should come by so we could take a closer look at everything, and guess what we discovered?!
The gearbox mounting (the bearing located under the air filter) was completely torn off, and my engine was practically only attached in two places!!! Thankfully, only one thread was broken, and one screw was sheared off. We replaced the broken thread with a longer screw and nut, while the other threads were okay. He had new screws available, tightened everything securely, reassembled everything, and took it for a test drive. And what can I say: It felt like a brand new car! I could hardly believe it, but there are no more noises.
Later, my friend also found out that there had been a recall campaign at VW, specifically due to this same issue.
I'm so glad, although the 150 HP TDI was tempting, it's much cheaper this way!!!
So, thank you all anyway, and maybe someone else will have the same symptoms, and then they'll know what's causing it!

Hello.

I also spent 3 years considering whether to convert my 90 hp TDI, manufactured in 2001, to an ARL engine. However, in the end, common sense prevailed. By the way, some companies, like RAR, offer such conversions, and the complete package, including the ESP and everything else needed, costs around 5-6,000 euros.

On the other hand, if you think about it, is all of this worth it for your golf game?

I was wondering if you might consider selling your Golf and getting a newer ARL model instead (preferably one with all-wheel drive, it's a lot of fun).

If you can get that price for the engine, and the mileage is accurate, I would definitely sell it. I think you should be able to get at least 4-5 thousand euros for it! That would also give you some extra capital to put towards your new car!

Mostly, you won't get reimbursed for the modifications if you want to sell the Golf afterwards.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"MFG" is an abbreviation for "Mit freundlichen Grüßen," which means "Sincerely" or "Best regards" in English.

Will he still be interested in that 3 years later?

Well...

I think that this project is also about the fun of tinkering and working with your hands.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"MFG" is an abbreviation for "Mit freundlichen Grüßen," which means "Sincerely" or "Best regards" in English.

Sure, but the thread is three years old...

Regards,
0588.778

Oops, I'm just realizing this now, oh man.


I can hardly believe .

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"MFG" is an abbreviation for "Mit freundlichen Grüßen," which means "Sincerely" or "Best regards" in English.