Engine Start Problems After Timing Belt Replacement

HI!

I have a Golf IV, model year 1998, with a 90 horsepower ALH engine.

Nach den Zahnriemenwechsel springt der Motor nicht mehr an ! The core values.

Secure the engine to the overhead camshaft using a locking tool. Align the injection pump rotor using a dowel.
Krafstoff ist auch genug da! Batterie hat auch genug Dampf, was kann da schief gelaufen sein?? Could it be?
Could something have been misaligned by removing the timing belt? If...
When the engine is at Top Dead Center (TDC), the locating pin fits perfectly into the rotor of the fuel injection pump, which is actually possible.
'Only the cam gear was slightly twisted, and if so, only by a fraction (in the tenths of a millimeter range)! Anyway...'
It doesn't start. I'm at my wit's end. Help!


Best regards, Fredy.

Fredy wrote:

Could it be? Could something have been misaligned by removing the timing belt? If... When the engine is at Top Dead Center (TDC), the locating pin fits perfectly into the rotor of the fuel injection pump, which is actually possible. "Only the cam gear was slightly twisted, and if so, only by a fraction (in the tenths of a millimeter range)! Anyway..." It doesn't start.

Hi Freddy,
If the new timing belt is installed in the same position as the old one, it should start.

Did you disconnect any electrical connectors and forget to reconnect them?

I hope you only loosened the pulley/vibration damper on the crankshaft, and not the central nut itself?

Did you make sure to tighten the screw for the camshaft wheel properly?

Is the tensioner (and all other components) installed correctly and properly secured?

Stupid question (I haven't replaced the timing belt before on this car), but: Does the new timing belt run around all the pulleys and components correctly, just like the old one?

Are all the sprinkler pipes connected and not kinked?

Hello!

First of all, thank you for the quick response. No, I only solved the riddle.
Could it be because of that? The fuel filter is quite old, it has about 50,000 km on it.
Okay, the wiring is all back in place. I'll finish up my car tomorrow.
to have it towed to a Bosch service center: I'm already getting a headache .


Best regards, Fredy.

Hi.

Perhaps one more attempt:

Loosen the injector nozzle retaining nut and check for diesel leakage when the engine is running.
If not -> check the pump, filter, etc.
If that's the case -> pray that the damage isn't too expensive .

'It looks like the timing has been altered! It's probably that when they were adjusting the teeth, they twisted the crankshaft. Just one tooth out of alignment, and the engine won't start! Make sure the crankshaft is set to top dead center (but really, *really* make sure!), and then the locking plate probably won't fit perfectly onto the camshaft.'
Otherwise, it's possible that the injection pump's start of injection is not correct. You can initially adjust this statically using a simple gauge.

First, check the position of the camshaft at top dead center (TDC) of the crankshaft. You should find the issue there!

Fredy wrote:

Could it be? Could something have been misaligned by removing the timing belt? If... When the engine is at Top Dead Center (TDC), the locating pin fits perfectly into the rotor of the fuel injection pump, which is actually possible. "Only the cam gear was slightly twisted, and if so, only by a fraction (in the tenths of a millimeter range)! Anyway..." It doesn't start. I'm at my wit's end. Help!

Hi Fredy,

Stay calm . Did you install the timing belt without loosening the camshaft sprocket? If not: did you use a camshaft alignment tool and feeler gauges, etc.? Try the test that Ulf recommended. You can't dynamically check the injection timing without a running engine. Try temporarily adjusting the pump to an earlier timing (against the direction of the belt). If it starts then, the problem is the injection timing. Otherwise, it really sounds like there's air in the system or disconnected cables.

Hi!


First of all, thank you very much for your efforts!!!

I went to the Bosch service today, and what can I say, it was a case of human error .

The timing has been 'shifted' by one tooth, but now it's running normally again.
TDI, I'm so glad . All the fun I had included working at Bosch.
The fuel filter cost €168.34. Just mentioning it, but the forum is great!!
Has anyone heard anything about the new Golf V (which is about to be released), such as important things like extended service intervals for the timing belt, etc.?


Best regards, Fredy.

Hi Fredy,

What did you do wrong?

hi christian

As I see it, he didn't properly secure the crankshaft pulley, and when he lifted the timing chain, the pulley rotated on the camshaft! This is a common mistake, even in VW workshops.

'It was similar with my first timing belt replacement. I didn't have the timing marks checked again. It didn't start, but thankfully I knew the symptoms and the cause. That locking tool for the crankshaft from Hazet (or a similar brand) is more than worth its weight in gold in such a situation!'

There's still no news about the Golf V engines, but the 5-cylinder engine in the T5 has completely become belt-free .

Hi haehnlein!

It was probably due to the homemade camshaft timing tool!
I installed the timing belt without loosening the camshaft pulley (I think that was the tip someone gave me).
(I believe it came from you, if I'm not mistaken) It seems the camshaft must have rotated one tooth. By the way, how much does a Hazet camshaft timing tool cost?




Best regards, Fredy.

joergs wrote:

ps: I experienced something similar during my first timing belt replacement. I didn't re-check the timing marks. The engine didn't start, but thankfully I knew the symptoms and the cause. The tool from Hazet (????) used to lock the crankshaft is more than worth its weight in gold in such a situation!

Hi Joerg,

"I have never needed to use a locking mechanism so far, and I have been able to install the belt without any problems. It is important that the number of teeth between the crankshaft (KW) and the exhaust camshaft (ESP) matches. Therefore, before installing the timing belt, rotate the crankshaft slightly counterclockwise, and when attempting to place the belt on the camshaft pulley, rotate it back to the top dead center (TDC) position. I have never experienced any problems, and the crankshaft does not rotate when tightening the timing belt."

If there is one tooth too many between the crankshaft (KW) and the camshaft (ESP), then the pump is obviously set "much too late" -> in that case, adjustment will no longer help . In addition, there are problems with incorrectly tensioned timing belts, because the tensioning force is only transmitted between the crankshaft and the camshaft, and the tension is therefore no longer correct after the first rotation!

Conclusion: If the timing chain twists when being tightened, it's better to reinstall it from scratch .

Fredy wrote:

(I think that's the tip) came from you if I'm not mistaken)

Hi Fredy,

mhmhmhmh: that was Ulf -> he wanted to try this out .

I GENERALLY use a proper locking ruler and loosen the camshaft bolt or the camshaft wheel. I don't know if there's a ruler from Hazet . Mine came with the dial gauge for the static injection start (for TD). The company is called Klann. Check the catalog on www.stahlgruber.de... I mean that the ruler is also available without the gauge.

Hi,

haehnlein wrote:

Fredy wrote: (I think that's the tip) came from you if I'm not mistaken) Hi Fredy, mhmhmhmh: that was Ulf -> he wanted to try this out

.
With my AHF, everything is going great without having to loosen the camshaft sprocket.

Best regards, Rainer.

(I think that's the tip)
came from you if I'm not mistaken)

Hi Fredy,

mhmhmhmh: that was Ulf -> he wanted to try this out .

I GENERALLY use a proper locking ruler and loosen the camshaft bolt or the camshaft wheel. I don't know if there's a ruler from Hazet . Mine came with the dial gauge for the static injection start (for TD). The company is called Klann. Check the catalog on www.stahlgruber.de... I mean that the ruler is also available without the gauge.

The Klann straight edge has the Klann number KL-0280-9 and, I believe, cost around 30 euros. The quality is very good, and the fit is precise.

Hi Joerg,

'I have never needed to use a locking mechanism so far, and I have been able to install the belt without any problems. It is important that the number of teeth between the crankshaft (KW) and the exhaust camshaft (ESP) matches. Therefore, before installing the timing belt, rotate the crankshaft slightly counterclockwise, and when attempting to place the belt on the camshaft pulley, rotate it back to the top dead center (TDC) position. I have never experienced any problems, and the crankshaft does not rotate when tightening the timing belt.'

If there is one tooth too many between the crankshaft (KW) and the exhaust camshaft (ESP), then the pump is obviously set 'much too late' -> in this case, adjustment will no longer help . In addition, there are problems with incorrectly tensioned timing belts, because the tensioning force is only transmitted in the area between the crankshaft and the exhaust camshaft, and the tension is therefore no longer correct after the first rotation!

Conclusion: If the timing belt twists when being tensioned, it's better to reinstall it from scratch .

'Wow! It can happen very quickly if you're not careful! This wouldn't be the first time the crankshaft has been damaged! In such a case, always start over from the beginning!'