Creaking passenger door, Volkswagen Golf IV, 2-door

Hi,

I'm having a problem with squeaky doors on my Volkswagen Golf IV 2-door car.
I completely rubbed the rubber parts with a care product, but it's still just as noisy.
I had already removed the trim and replaced all 6 clips. No improvement. One of the clips on the bottom rubber seal was loose, and for a while I thought that might be the problem. But it's louder than ever. However, when it rains heavily, it's quiet...


He already has the new locking latches, and I've lubricated both those and the hinges/locking mechanisms. Does anyone else have any ideas?

Hello,

Do the noises come from the area of the B-pillar? If so, it's likely the door latch mechanisms.
Lubricating the latch often makes the cracking and creaking even worse!
Are these the chrome-plated ones? Could you please try those?
Wrapping the latch with thin electrical tape or something similar helped a lot with my G4.

Hi,

es läst sich leider überhaupt nicht auf eine Stelle festlegen. Es hört sich an, als wenn die gesamte Tür knarzen würde. EinfOh my gosh! / Oh no! / How terrible!
These are the newer chrome-plated locking rods. The car was first registered in 07/2002. If there's absolutely no other way, I will have to take it back to the workshop. Unfortunately, they have already tried unsuccessfully twice ...

I'll try the tape trick. According to the workshop foreman, something had already been inserted into the door previously. However, I couldn't see any evidence of that when I removed the door panel.

Hello Roger,

Have you checked that yet?

Due to imperfect riveting of the locking bar to the base plate, cracking noises may occur in the B/C pillars. These noises may also be audible in the area of the instrument panel.

Open the door and use a screwdriver to check if the latch bolt on the base plate is loose. If it is loose, replace it.

or


Noises coming from the door panels.

Noises may occur from the area of the door panel when the armrest is loaded or during driving on uneven road surfaces, because the door panel comes into contact with and rubs against the inner door frame.
The area of the front door paneling near the B-pillar is particularly affected.

The door panel should have a uniform gap all around to the inner door skin. The clearance can be checked using paper, a business card, or something similar. This should slide easily between the door panel and the inner door skin. When installing the door panel, it is sufficient to use a tool (business card, strip of paper, or brush) moistened with a drop of lubricant and insert it into the narrow space. This lubricant ensures that the components slide against each other permanently, thus preventing noise.

Hello Michael,

Okay, I will also look into that.

Unfortunately, the noise cannot be reproduced by simply touching or manipulating the door panel. Also, the window mechanism on this door has already been replaced because it wasn't fully lowering. Even after the replacement, the creaking sound that was present before persisted despite my complaint. Now, in addition to that, something seems to be rattling loosely inside the door; when closing the door, you can hear a brief clatter at the bottom of the door near the corner where it meets the B-pillar.
I've already searched behind the trim panel. I also loosened the entire engine mount assembly and retightened all the bolts in a specific order to the specified torque of 8 Nm. Unfortunately, it was all in vain; the creaking noise actually got louder. Due to the new, completely enclosed design, you can't see without disassembling the engine mount assembly whether anything is obstructing the door.

"But for now, I'm going to focus intensively on the door latch mechanism. I thought the new chrome-plated latches wouldn't be affected anymore. If that doesn't work, then the workshop will have to fix their mistake. It will cost me another half day plus the hassle of getting a rental car..."

Hi,

So, the latch is really secure.

Once the door panel is removed, everything seems quiet. I checked the gap all around, and it's slightly tighter at the bottom front. However, the creaking doesn't seem to be coming from there, because when the passenger presses on that area, nothing changes.

It seems the trim itself is the problem. When you press on the connection point between the black upper part and the fabric-covered section of the removed trim, it creaks. Both plastic parts are connected by several weld points. These welds have some play in them, which is why they produce noises.

Has anyone ever successfully decommissioned this before?
If I take this to someone who doesn't know what they're doing, they will probably fiddle with it three times before replacing the cover ...

Ah yes, I was able to fix the rattling noise when closing it. It was the power cable leading to the emergency exit light, which was a bit too long and was hitting against the generator support.

Either re-welding the seams or using adhesive might help...

Hi,

I just scheduled an appointment. I immediately mentioned that this is the third revision and requested a real solution.

If I were to use glue myself on the trim, there would eventually be problems regarding the warranty. It's a shame for such a beautiful holiday day .

Hi,

They actually managed to fix it. I was told that the seal on the A-pillar was completely dry, and that's where the problem originated (...) Anyway, now there's silicone grease all over it up there - and it's been quiet for 2 weeks !

Kurz vor dem Termin meldete sich dann noch der Schließbügel an der Fahrertür mit lautem Knacken, auch beim Öffnen der Tür . Das war eindeutig, auch beim Freundlichen sofortiges Kopfnicken bei der Probefahrt. Schweißpunkt gelöst. Der silberfarbene Originalschließbügel wurde durch einen schwärzlichen Bügel getauscht. Oder wurde der am Ende nur hinten geschweißt - wer weiß ... Auch auSince then, there has been peace on the driver's side .

The only thing they still haven't been able to fix is the metallic rattling sound in the rear area on the right .

Ich habe aber in einem anderen Forum einen Hinweis auf problematische Schweißpunkte im Bereich des Übergangs von der C-Säule zum Bodenblech bekommen. Und zwar sollen in Höhe des hinteren Radkastens zwei Bleche senkrecht aneinander stoßen. Diese Punktschweißungen sind tlw. aufgrund der Verzinkung fehlerhaft ausgeführt und erzeugen beim Einfedern knackende/klappernde Geräusche. Mit einem Kunststoffkeil muss man zwischen die Schweißpunkte fahren und Druck ausüben. Wo das Klappern aufhört, muss nachgeschweißt werden. Der GThis forum participant's post was edited on both sides, and they have been quiet ever since.

I probably need to take down the wheel arch liner sometime and go for a drive in the trunk ...

@Roger:
If you can't find the source of the noise there, I have another possible explanation for sounds coming from the rear of the vehicle.

Initially, my A3 also had hard, almost metallic clunking noises coming from the rear area. The Audi workshop probably needed 4-5 attempts to find the cause.
According to the mechanic, the problem was hidden beneath the interior trim of the tailgate. The linkage that operates the latch release needed to be slightly bent so that it would no longer come into contact with the trim when encountering short, "hard" bumps in the road.

So don't despair if you can't find what you're looking for in the area of the C-pillar!

Regards,
Alex.

'When I had multiple passengers in the car or was doing a large grocery run, the exhaust pipe once hit the rear axle bracket.'

I only discovered that after weeks.
The exhaust just needed a slight adjustment, and then everything was quiet again!

It was difficult to detect on the standard lift with its four supports because there is no load on the car in that configuration.
I accidentally discovered this on another stage where you can drive up.

@donalexo:

That idea about the support rod doesn't sound bad! But did you also hear it when the tailgate was locked during driving?
I should try that sometime...

@dan.iel:

No, that noise is completely independent of the load. Whether it's empty or has four people plus luggage, it sounds the same. That's why I don't think it's a "black smoke" issue. My older Golf had problems like that once, but it sounded different.

@Roger:

Quote:

The thing about the support rod doesn't sound wrong either! But did you also hear it while driving, even with the tailgate locked?

Yes, always with short, crisp ground swells.

Regards,
Alex.

Damn it, that would be perfect.

And roughly about twice in quick succession, as much as one can distinguish them from each other in such a rapid sequence?

I'm just surprised that my friendly mechanic replaced my rear wiper motor and was already aware of the rattling issue. However, nothing changed after the replacement...

The question is, what kind of rods are supposed to be there?? Because there aren't any. I think it's more likely that a metal clip from the interior trim is rattling around. That happens often. Take that thing apart quickly yourself, Roger.