Golf III TD: Intermittent Starting Problems

Hi,

I'm having a small problem with a Golf III TD 1.9L 75HP.

The engine occasionally fails to start.
It doesn't matter if it's cold, warm, or hot – that's why I'm disabling the glow plugs and the candles.
Sometimes, it doesn't start until after 10 or more attempts, but then it starts as if nothing had happened.

The battery and starter are okay.

Does anyone have any ideas?
Diesel shut-off valve? (If this is responsible for stopping the engine... I'm not familiar with the engine, I drive a DB [likely referring to a specific vehicle model] where everything is controlled by vacuum).
Or perhaps the legendary tension relay? If so, which one...? I've heard of the 109, but haven't looked into it yet.

I am grateful for any advice.

Best regards,
Marian.

Could it be relay 109? Does the vehicle experience intermittent issues while driving?

Best regards, WarLord.

Hi.

No, when it's running, it runs without any problems. Therefore, the valve is probably the more likely culprit.

'By the way, I'll check tomorrow to see if the TD already has the 109 relay.'

Best regards,
Marian.

Hi,

Are the starting problems somehow related to the fuel level or the angle at which the car is parked?
There should be a transparent fuel hose between the diesel filter and the fuel injection pump. Is this hose full of foam/air when you're experiencing starting problems?

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello Rainer,

I also saw the hose. In the dark, using a flashlight, I couldn't see any air or foam. Ultimately, the battery was completely drained from the last time the organ was used. After jump-starting it and trying the organ five times, it then worked as if nothing had happened.

The fuel level was different each time, and the parking space was generally always level.
The weather doesn't really matter. He had the same problem last summer, then it went away, and he got it again in December. Now the car has been sitting for about 4 weeks, and I want to get it running again tomorrow so my girlfriend isn't so dependent on my car.

It doesn't 'cough' as if it's occasionally not getting fuel. There's no diesel smell in the engine compartment, as far as I could tell.
You can drive for 100km, turn off the engine for 5-10 minutes, and it won't start again - but as I said, this doesn't always happen.
However, it can definitely stall and refuse to start the next morning, or it might start up without any problems.

The filter was supposedly replaced not too long ago.


Best regards,
Marian.

Sinclair wrote:

Ultimately, the battery finally gave out for the last time after being used with the organ. After jump-starting it and using the organ 5 times, it then started working as if nothing had happened. Bitte gib mir den deutschen Text, den du übersetzt haben möchtest. He can definitely stand for the entire night and start without any problems the next morning... or he might not.

Hi Marian,

Given these lottery-like probabilities (it either works or it doesn't), I'm most likely to suspect the magnetic retaining clip in the pump.
Specifically, it's not an electrical problem (intermittent fault) – because something like that would likely occur during operation – but rather a tendency for mechanical jamming due to the formation of burrs.

So, let's expand and make it more common.
Make sure to pay close attention to cleanliness, because anything that trickles through the inlet opening into the pump will not be stopped by any downstream filter!

Before you do anything else, you can measure the voltage between the positive terminal of the battery and the positive terminal of the starter motor while starting the engine or with the engine running. There shouldn't be a significant voltage drop – anything above 1 volt is, in my opinion, a cause for concern.

I would also start by checking the shut-off valve.
Just apply 12V directly to rule out a broken wire.

Swapping [things] won't hurt, and it doesn't cost much.

and of course, check the fuel supply to make sure the filter or hoses aren't faulty.

CU Gremlin.

Hello,

The problem could also be caused by a faulty ignition switch component. I've had a similar issue before.

The car was parked, and 10 minutes later, it wouldn't start. An hour later, everything was back to normal.

After I installed a new ignition switch, the problem completely disappeared.

Hi,

Thank you all in advance for the tips.
Consequently, the ignition switch and the valve are also my favorites.
The snow messed things up a bit for me today, but I mean, the valve is located on the front of the pump.

Is there any more detailed information available about the ESPs, perhaps in the form of drawings or exploded diagrams?

Best regards,
Marian.

Hi Marian.
The shut-off valve is not located on the front of the pump, but on the top. However, it's not hard to miss because it's the only electrical connection to the pump.

Regards,
Hermann.

Hi.

No, the pump has multiple inlets, even though it's an AAZ model.
First, there's the solenoid valve for adjusting the injection start, then there's what I suspect is a shut-off valve (although I'm not sure what it is), and finally, the plastic housing above the high-pressure lines. I suspect the shut-off valve is located underneath.
Unfortunately, this plastic casing seems to be riveted on.
I'm going to try to remove the cover.

But what is located between the HD lines?

Here are 2 pictures of the pump:

http://www.mcmaui.de/foto/auto/ve1.jpg
The aforementioned part...

http://www.mcmaui.de/foto/auto/ve2.jpg
Side view of a pump with a plastic housing.

Best regards,
Marian.

Hi Marian.

I'm sorry, but I can't help with that.
My 1993 Vento (also with an AAZ engine) didn't have that problem.
The shut-off valve is located at the top, and the bright cable lug connects to it there.

Regards,
Hermann.

Hi Marian, There's a piece of the immobilizer (plastic) around the starter, which isn't riveted, but attached with breakaway screws. Break the plastic housing with a chisel and unscrew the two breakaway screws. Figure out which of the two wires carries the ignition power (terminal 15). Connect this wire directly to the starter (under the black plastic, above the HD wires).
Then you won't have an immobilizer anymore, but at least your car will run.
If the valve is still stuck, you can also replace it.

Hi,

aha, the car already has a WFS... I didn't know that - but it's also not my car .

Okay, I'll modify the casing and let you know how it turns out.
I'll test the valve first, and then I'll see if it's possible to get a replacement housing separately - probably not?
WFS should hopefully be working again soon, otherwise there might be problems with the insurance if the item is lost, I think.

Thank you very much, and best regards.
Marian.