Performance issues Focus TDCI

First of all, congratulations on this informative forum/board!

I have a Focus TDCI (85kw) and I'm experiencing the following problem:
I had the TDCI tuned (through EPROM replacement) and instead of the 'promised' 145 hp, only 130 hp came out. However, 316 Nm were already at 2200 rpm.
Unfortunately, the torque curve decreases sharply from 3000 and the performance curve decreases rapidly from 4000, resulting in acceleration on the highway that is exactly the same as before. Here's the diagram, unfortunately I don't have a 'Vorhe' diagram.
http://www.home.pages.at/svenm/temp/Leistung%20meiner3kl.jpg

Now, after following the advice of my tuner, I had the car checked out at the workshop, and everything was fine.
Then I disabled the AGr, which also didn't result in any measurable difference (5.02 S from 2000 to 4000, average value).
Just now, I pretended to give the control unit a complete cylinder fill (by connecting a 5V diode to the LMM connector 5 with the LMM signal).

Interestingly, it's now clear that it's performing significantly worse (around 6.7 seconds), the turbo only kicks in at 3000 RPM, and it's making a tractor-like noise.
From this, we can conclude that he is not getting enough air, or? Since the car previously belonged to a 70-year-old grandfather who had driven it for 45,000 km, I suspect that the intake manifold will be completely clogged, or am I wrong?

What else could be causing my lack of performance? The last Focus that was chipped, same year, had 146 horsepower and 346 Nm !!!
I also have a follow-up appointment scheduled, but if anything is clogged, then all of this won't be very useful.

I would appreciate any information. I am still quite inexperienced in the diesel area, as it is my 'first' experience.

Just now, I pretended to give the control unit a complete cylinder fill (by connecting a 5V diode to the LMM connector 5 with the LMM signal).

Interestingly, it's now clear that it's performing significantly worse (around 6.7 seconds), the turbo only kicks in at 3000 RPM, and it's making a tractor-like noise.
From this, we can conclude that he is not getting enough air, or? Since the car previously belonged to a 70-year-old grandfather who had driven it for 45,000 km, I suspect that the intake manifold will be completely clogged, or am I wrong?


Hi Travelstar,

If the car runs poorly with a diode sensor compared to an LMM sensor, the only thing that comes to mind is
That you might have possibly installed it the wrong way around.
How did you shut down the AGR?

Mhhh, unfortunately, the designation for my LMM is different from how it's explained in the LMM article. I have EABCDF (or something like that, I need to check).
Then I turned on the ignition and measured 2 x 12V, 1 x 4.8, 1 x 5.2, 1 x ground, and once nothing. I connected the 'nothing' with the 4.8V using a diode (actually with the correct polarity)... but I don't rule out errors. I'll receive a TIS-CD from Ford soon, hopefully it contains some information

I've only managed to shut down the AGr in the engine compartment using a blind plug in the vacuum line of the AGr vacuum chamber. I'll be removing the intake manifold on Monday anyway to check, and I'll also use a small... Shut down the metal sheet.

OK, let's go for 3 days to the Mosel, drink wine, ) (and blow out the diesel).

Hi Travelstar,

When reviewing the LMM, please double-check everything carefully.
Regarding AGR, I can tell you that it's not effective to simply plug a stuck AGR with a stopper. If the valve sticks in the half-open or fully open position, the only solution is to verschandeln it and make it functional again, or to block the exhaust path.

Okay, I've now silenced the AGR with a shield.
Then I went to my chip tuner and he checked my LMM again for safety and said that it was broken. Otherwise, we could have increased the curves further, unfortunately, according to Statement of the programmer: Always increase everything proportionally at once... meaning no more of the idealistic vision of increasing everything by 2600, and then please, something extra

So, I drove back home and started measuring, the following results came out:

Turn on ignition, connect the O2 sensor.
E = 2,86 V
A = 12,52 V
B = Mass
C = 0V
d = 0.04 V
F = Mass

Turn on the engine, connect the oxygen sensor.
E = 4.00 VV
A = 14,00 V
B = Mass
C = 0,05 V
d = 1.89 V
F = Mass

And now, the values with the plug removed, ignition on
E = 5,00 V
A = 12,50 V
B = Mass
C = 5,87 V
d = 0 V
F = Mass

So, I assume that 'D' represents my LMM signal. So, I've disconnected the plug and connected the diode with the cathode (ring) to 'D' and the anode to 'E' (since I had it connected to 4V at the motor).
The result was that the turbo only engaged at 2800 RPM and it was quite sluggish.
Then I plugged the connector into the LMM and bridged it from 'behind' with the diode. It felt stronger in the upper area, but not so much that it was definitely noticeable. Furthermore, he has also been ejected from the game three times while standing.

To all of you talented individuals, is this thing broken or not?
In the control unit, no error is stored, even if I drive with the connector disconnected, this is not visible in the diagnosis.
The mechanics at the Ford workshop are making me feel stupid, they tell me that if nothing is written in the control unit, then everything is okay! But I'm missing 15 horsepower!!! Nothing is okay!
Now I also don't know if there are equivalents between Pieburg's Bosch LMM's and my Ford's.

But I need HELP!