TDI 1.9: Find Mechanic for Inspection/Repair

Hello,
I'm looking for someone in the Stuttgart area who might be able to take a look at my Audi 1.9 TDI B4. I have a problem, but I don't know what needs to be replaced. I've heard it could be the fuel injection pump, knock sensor, etc. Before I spend a lot of money (on a fuel injection pump), I want to make sure I know exactly what the issue is. In my opinion, even Audi workshops often don't really know what they're talking about!

Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English. I'm ready when you are!

Regards,
Matthias.

INPUT! and quickly...

Car, engine, etc.?

Problem...?

Hi Matthias,

I recall that Rainer K. once offered a similar service; why don't you just contact him about it?

Hi,

Unfortunately, Stuttgart is a bit far away... However, the service has not proven to be satisfactory.
So far, all we've heard is talk, and people are looking for a solution via email or phone.
Obviously, people would rather pay for the tenth unnecessary part replacement...

Best regards, Rainer.

Hi,

So far, all we've heard is talk, and people are looking for a solution via email or phone.

Greetings, Rainer.

I don't recall you offering a crystal ball diagnosis service. Unfortunately, that's the sad reality, and in the end, many people still didn't learn anything from it.

@Julian,
It's an Audi B4 from 1994, with a 1.9 TDI engine and a 1Z motor code.
The problem is that it has the well-known 'jerky' behavior, and from what I've gathered, you don't necessarily have to replace the entire ESP unit. When it's cold, it runs like a tractor from pre-war times!
Unfortunately, this is my first diesel car, so I can't really say much about it.

P.S. I just meant that someone would come to me and look at my car. I thought that was clear! Of course, it wouldn't be bad if someone came to me, but that's too much to ask.

P.S.S. Great people here, respect. I didn't expect such quick responses!

Hi tdi racer.

Regarding stuttering:
If it's the surging issue, you can perform a relatively simple test. Disconnect the connector from the speed sensor on the transmission (driver's side, underneath the injection pump housing; there are two connectors there. The upper one is for the reversing lights, so disconnect the lower one). If the surging disappears after that, it's almost certainly due to a sticking metering unit --> replace the pump or continue experiencing the surging.

Regarding cold start performance:
This is an early-generation TDI engine. Don't expect overly smooth running. Mine also makes a lot of noise and wakes up the neighborhood when I start it in the morning when it's cold. Once it warms up, it gets better.

For troubleshooting:
An investigation using diagnostic software (such as VAG-COM) can also help to identify some of the defective parts.

Otherwise, try using the search function; you'll be overwhelmed with results...

Regards,
Hermann.

How does the shaking feel? Is it occasional or constant?
Has the needle lift adjuster ever been replaced, or has a knock test been performed?
It's a common problem with the 1Z engine!

Best regards, TD.

... I live near Stuttgart (in Vaihingen/Enz). Is the distance acceptable for you?

I need more information about the vehicle first.

Hi Knubbi,

How about a workshop directory here on the forum where workshops can register themselves?

Here's the procedure:
- Customer searches for a workshop near their location and receives a customer ID from the forum software when selecting one.
- The workshop repairs the car and emails me the customer ID and license plate number.
- Customer with ID fills out the online feedback form, and this is compared to the customer ID sent by the workshop.
- Update workshop rating statistics.

In my opinion, this would prevent workshops from cheating because any inconsistencies in feedback related to specific IDs would be noticeable.
Customers who try to sabotage the business, for example by leaving negative reviews from a competitor, could only do so once, as they would be identifiable through their ID and vehicle registration number based on information provided in the workshop feedback.

What do you think about it?

Best regards, Rainer.

'@Rainer: That sounds really good, damn it. '

Wow, great idea!!! (Then it will really only be about going to the friendly [place/business]!)

But what if I pick up my car and then realize, either at home or later, that something was done incorrectly? Can I submit the feedback form later, or can I edit it?

'Good idea! This could potentially lead to a more accurate and unbiased picture of the quality and performance of the workshops.'

@thomas.diem
Okay, so when the engine is cold, the misfiring is very noticeable. It stops completely under full load, and when I'm driving uphill, for example, it 'stutters' around 3000 RPM – meaning it loses power. Even if I floor the accelerator, it becomes weaker and slower. As far as I know, the needle valve injector hasn't been replaced, nor has the knock sensor.

Regards,
Matthias.

tdi racer wrote:

For example, when I'm driving uphill, it experiences a "drop in power" at around 3000 RPM, meaning it stops pulling, and even if I give it full throttle, it becomes weaker and slower.

Hi Matthias,

You can probably solve this problem yourself (costing approximately 2-5 euros in materials): Take a look at the hoses for the boost pressure regulation, especially those near the magnetic valve that limits boost pressure. You will most likely find a hose that has come loose -> remove it and the problem should be solved. Several Audi 80 drivers, including myself, have experienced this issue before.

Please always specify the mileage . You can and should change the NHG (noise, vibration, harshness) component after more than 150,000 km. That other jerking sounds very much like a quantity control valve . Is it particularly bad when driving at low RPM? Also, check the search function for "crankshaft bolt".

Well, every engine will probably stutter when driven at too low an RPM. You probably meant 'low-revving.'

Best regards, WarLord.