Nozzle Blockage: Reduce Performance Issues

Hi.

The 1Z engine has 4 cylinders with 5-hole injectors, so a total of 20 holes.

Can we generally assume that these holes contribute equally to the overall performance?

So, if every nozzle has a blocked hole, does that really mean 1/5 of the power is wasted?

I'm actually wondering why my 10-cent tuning isn't producing the often-described "Russian clouds."

Therefore, there might be leaks, so that the actual amount of mg/H passing through is never really as much as expected, and thus never enough for a proper Russian [bath/sauna].

I know, it's all just speculation, and "practice makes perfect" .

m;

Hi Martin, it's like with Radio ERIWAN - In principle, yes, but...

To my knowledge, all the holes are the same size, are subjected to the same pressure, and therefore contribute equally to the overall performance. However, this is only true as long as the pressure is exactly the same for 5 holes as it is for 4 holes, which is not the case. This means: if one hole is blocked, the pressure increases, and more output comes from the others. However, the effect will not be perfectly balanced. In other words, the loss is less than 1/5 per cylinder, but there is still a loss.

It has nothing to do with carbon buildup, because it's unlikely that every cylinder is missing a hole. If only one cylinder weren't producing carbon buildup, then there would still be 3 others that are.

If your engine is producing excessive soot, it could be due to general wear and tear on your fuel injection system. If the leakage current increases through the pump and electronic control unit (ECU) due to wear, the amount of fuel injected by the nozzles decreases - mine is likely suffering from this as well. I already have new nozzles, and I'm still looking for a reasonably priced pump or pump head.
For me, this manifests as needing to increase the boost pressure significantly more today in order for it to produce smoke, compared to before, while maintaining the same boost pressure.
Are you running too much boost? Or do you have a mass airflow sensor (MAF) that's deliberately limited to prevent excessive soot production?

Quote:

Do you have too high boost pressure? Or do you have a mass airflow sensor (MAF) that is limited in such a way that it definitely prevents any more soot from being produced?

Boost pressure is normal (this is from BEFORE the 10-cent adjustment).
I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

The LMM only reaches 700 mg at an altitude of 3000.

Meanwhile, I've already seen "traces" at night in the headlight beam of the rear lights. It's probably not as clean as I thought it was .

I can tell that your injectors might be faulty from the sound they're making; it sounds uneven, but only when they're injecting fuel. It disappears when the engine is under load.

Thank you for the tip about leakage losses.

m;

700 is too low for me; anything under 850 costs too much.

Try testing it with the diode first. If that works better, then try it with my correction circuit (which ULF has published as a technical article).

Does the 1Z engine have the same idle speed control display in the engine control unit (ECU) as the AFN engine? If so, comparison values have already been posted in this forum. What are your thoughts on that?
A clogged nozzle should be noticeable, right? Or what do the experts say about it?

garth.brooks wrote:

...Does the 1Z engine display the idle speed control information in the MSG (Main System Module) in the same way as the AFN engine? If so, comparison values have already been posted in this forum. What do you think about that? There should be a noticeable issue with a clogged nozzle - Or what do the experts say about that?

So, in my case, the leaking nozzle in the idle speed control system didn't cause any noticeable issues. A (partially) clogged nozzle would be much more obvious.

The maximum correction I saw was 0.6 mg, but it wasn't like any single one stood out significantly.

Okay, then the Z3 could still be incorrect, and therefore the others need to be adjusted.

m

I can't seem to get mine to start either...

I haven't changed the air filter for the last 60,000 km (I'm a ), I just always tap it out. Also, I'm still driving without a mass airflow sensor (MAF sensor) but with a diode instead.
No soot, nothing...

P.S.: The 10-cent tuning doesn't seem to be having any effect...