Golf3 pulls to the left (SOLVED) (Solution)

Hi.
I have a G3 here that pulls strongly to the left when I accelerate. "When I release the accelerator, the steering wheel usually returns to the center position about 95% of the time. However, it can also happen that it continues to pull to the left, and it may take 3-4 bumps in the road before it straightens out."
Alignment was performed, and the camber was only slightly out of spec (positive). The toe and tracking were correct. The camber was adjusted. It seems that someone was too lazy to adjust it properly the last time. The bearings are mostly free of play. The front engine mount has some play. Could this be related to the G3 pulling to one side? Possibly, by tilting the drive unit, so that the gearbox applies pressure to the wheel bearing housing via the drive shaft?
Best regards, Bolzer.

Hi,

Quote:

I don't think the bearings are completely free of play.

Please do the following:
- Park the car on a level surface without engaging any gear, and apply the parking brake.
- Place a nut on the axle nut, and use a pipe as an extension, holding the pipe vertically upwards.

Now, try to move the wheel forward and backward by rotating it forcefully. Of course, don't turn it so much that the axle nut comes loose.
I'm almost certain that one of the wheel suspensions allows for more forward (or back and forth) movement than the other. A difference of 1cm would indicate the cause.

Best regards, Rainer.

... it's also possible that the tie rod (inner part) or its head is damaged.
This can cause noticeable shifts in steering feel.

Hi Leo,

Quote:

... it could also be that the tie rod (inner part) or the head of the tie rod is damaged. This causes noticeable weight shifts in the steering.

No, it doesn't have that much of an impact.

First, make sure the basic requirements are met.

Are the tires on the front axle the same brand and have the same tread depth?
Are the brakes working properly?
Brackets correct? - as Rainer wrote.

Are the wheel bearing housings and shock absorber struts straight?

Unfortunately, there are also specialists who try to force misaligned wheel bearing housings (axle shafts) within the tolerance limits by shifting the axle body or using thinner (camber) screws, which can also lead to similar issues.

This is usually recognizable by the fact that the imagined central longitudinal axis of the shock absorber mount on the suspension arm no longer aligns with the center of the control arm mount (ball joint at the bottom), but instead deviates towards the rear in the direction of travel. This also keeps the corresponding wheel in place.
behind, even though the trailing values may be within the tolerance range.

To identify such issues, a wheel alignment is necessary, which involves measuring all relevant values, including those that the manufacturer does not specify. Examples include: track width, steering axis inclination, wheel camber, wheel toe, and geometric axis of travel.
Sure, here's the translation:

"etc." Only in this way can a complete picture of the vehicle's geometry be obtained.

@ Bolzer

If all the basic requirements for your vehicle are met, please post the measurement report.

BM wrote:

Quote: ... it could also be that the tie rod (inner part) or the head of the tie rod is worn out. This causes noticeable weight shifts in the steering. No, it doesn't have that much of an impact.

Since I myself had to experience this, I can certainly say that this, among other things, can be the cause.
I didn't say that it is the cause .
I even had to bring in a workshop supervisor to explain my diagnosis!

Sure, here's the translation:

"Here's a quote from other forums:"
"Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English."
Here's a tip on how to identify a worn or damaged track rod end:

1. Search for a longer, flat stretch.
Maintain a constant speed.
3. Hold the steering wheel firmly (important!).
4. Now, just reduce the gas.
5a. If the car is pulling to the left, it could be the left tie rod end.
If the car now pulls to the right, it could be the right tie rod end.
"Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English."

Hi Leo,

Quote:

Because I myself had to experience this, I can certainly say that this, among other things, can be the cause.

This would require a severely damaged tie rod end, which is probably not the case here. I assume that an inspection of these parts was carried out before the wheel alignment, but worn rubber bushings can sometimes be overlooked due to the sometimes difficult accessibility of these components underneath the alignment equipment.

Hi.
Here is the survey report.
I won't be able to get my hands on the car again until tomorrow, so I haven't been able to say anything about the suspension bushings yet. When the car was inspected, the suspension components were checked. As I mentioned, the rear bushings on the control arms might be a little softer, but they aren't torn or visibly worn. I'll still replace them tomorrow. We'll see. I'll get back to you tomorrow.
Bolzer[/img]

If I'm interpreting this correctly (and it's late), the axle values are not the cause of the vehicle pulling to the left. The front axle doesn't appear to be damaged due to an accident, but:

Quote:

It was probably the last time someone was too lazy to set it.

It looks more like someone was just too lazy this time. This again reflects the relatively low price of a wheel alignment service offered by tire retailers.

As you correctly identified, the camber on the left side (0*24) was too positive. The toe angle, on the other hand, has a difference of 0*44. The included angle (the total angle from camber and toe) also has a difference of 0*50. The correct approach would have been to shift the axle assembly further to the left (with a toe angle of 0*22) so that you would have the same toe angle on both sides, namely 12*36. As a side effect, the camber on the left side would have been -0*34 and on the right side -0*26, which could then have been slightly corrected on the right side. The total angle would have been almost the same as well.

Unfortunately, that requires effort and reflection. Furthermore, the initial alignment measurement must be repeated after adjusting the toe and camber, as these values can only be measured using the 20-degree routine.


However, based on my experience, these values don't necessarily lead to the behavior you're describing, or at least not to the extent you suggest. I've seen some really strange things where you wonder how the car is even staying on the road. Nevertheless, it would have been nice if things had been done better, as described in the book.

Okay, let's continue searching and examine everything that spins or moves.

Hi.
I found the problem. The rear rubber bushings seemed a bit soft, but they weren't torn or damaged. They were just installed incorrectly. The right bushing was rotated 90 degrees. This caused the control arms to pull outwards during acceleration, which steered the car to the left. I replaced the bushings yesterday, and the car now drives straight again. So simple, yet so difficult.
Thank you everyone for the helpful tips.

I also need to defend the tire company. It was just a quick inspection after work. Therefore, that's fine with me so far.

Best regards, Bolzer.