Expand Hydrogen Production: How to Do It?

Hello,

I have here an AJM engine that a friend of a friend owned... well, after 135,000 km, the overly optimistic timing belt replacement interval caught up with it. The belt simply gave way. At that time, or shortly thereafter, the camshaft decided to open valves, but the pistons had other ideas. Overall, the engine is completely wrecked. The camshaft has suffered significant damage, 5 hydraulic lifters are more or less totally flattened, and the valves are all bent, at least visually. The rest of the engine doesn't look convincing either. At least the first piston has its "new" top dead center slightly lower than it should be.

Okay, so far so good. How do I actually get the two hydraulic lifters from the first cylinder out? I'm not entirely sure, but I think the cylinder head still has a chance of being salvageable, aside from its internal components.
Therefore, I want to get rid of the Hydros, but I have absolutely no idea how to remove the ones that are completely flat from the head; they're essentially flush with the head. Does anyone have any ideas? Because so far, I haven't encountered this type before.

Sure, no problem! Just provide the text you want me to translate.

http://www.matthiasmann.com/Bilder/DSC00197.JPG
http://www.matthiasmann.com/Bilder/DSC00198.JPG

Does a strong magnet help? Or could compressed air be used in the oil wells to build up pressure, potentially pushing something upwards? Otherwise, it looks very unhealthy based on what can be seen in the pictures.

Okay, so magnets don't work, I already have some, but the ones I found are too weak. Compressed air... maybe I could try that, but will it look the same afterwards, or will I end up with an oil fountain and the soup spraying everywhere?
I'll take a picture of the camshaft now... it looks even better!

Here's the photo of the cam that has suffered the most damage.


http://www.matthiasmann.com/Bilder/DSC00201.JPG

Normally, when introducing compressed air, some oil should be expelled. So, it's a good idea to have a cloth ready . This is just an idea, and I don't know if it will work. Combining both methods: a magnet from an old hard drive (relatively strong) and compressed air.

And if nothing else works, you can use a MIG welder to attach an M8 nut to the hydraulic unit with two points. Then, screw in a long bolt or similar and carefully drive it out.
It goes without saying that the head should be protected from sparks.

Okay, that's what I wanted to hear...

"The compressed air didn't work; the hydraulic cylinders are really stuck. I'll weld some nuts onto them and then drive the cylinders out. Thanks for the tip; I had already considered that idea, but I thought there might be other methods!"

I will let you know if it worked out.

Good morning for now.

It should be possible to weld a washer or similar onto it. A puller (like those used in bodywork repair) and a few strong blows should do the trick. If it's stuck on the valve stem, you might need to repeat the process using the "pistons" from the hydraulic system.

Regards

I assume he's been tampered with. The remaining five hydraulic components are completely stuck and can't be moved even a millimeter; they're all perfectly aligned.
Let's weld something on, I have a punch, and the PDs seem to be salvageable, at least 2. For two of them, the springs are broken because the holder is bent. I'm not entirely sure if you should bend it back like it was before, as they weren't even fully under the control lever .


To ULF: Have you found anything out about different cylinder heads when looking at your part numbers? My ASZ starts with the letter "R", while the AJM shown in the pictures starts with the letter "C".
The question can also be answered by anyone else.

Hello,

Keep a fire extinguisher readily available...

Best regards,

So, you mean that the header "a_usbrennen" doesn't have to be there .

'This has happened to me before, with damaged valves/hydraulic lifters after a timing belt failure. I then welded an M8 screw onto the hydraulic lifter and pulled on it forcefully. The result was that I completely disassembled the lifter (the two parts that are pushed apart by oil pressure, which provides automatic valve lash adjustment). I had the top part in my hand, while the bottom part remained in the cylinder head.'
However, it was all for naught; I still couldn't reach the valve shims, and I couldn't remove the valve springs. So, a new head is needed!
Of course, every case is different, so what works for me might not work for you – good luck.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

How about drilling a hole, cutting threads, and then trying to unscrew it? Additionally, you could try cooling the rod significantly (using dry ice or refrigerant spray), which would cause it to contract and hopefully make it easier to remove.

"Welding the nut back on and prying it off with a screwdriver worked. However, I don't think the head should be reinstalled in the form. There was some damage in one of the photos taken during a hydraulic test. The cylinders were flared downwards, and the lower part essentially bent around the valve spring. Everything came apart, which took a lot of work, but I think it was ultimately pointless. If anyone is interested, I think I have a cylinder head to give away; a friend should get a replacement."

A hydro is okay, and the valve underneath is still within tolerance. The rest is defective!

When did the timing belt break? Were you driving at full speed on the highway?

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

To ULF: Have you ever found anything out about different cylinder heads when looking at your part numbers? My ASZ engine code starts with the letter "R", while the AJM engine code, as seen in the pictures, starts with the letter "C"

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Hmm, I have part number 038 103 351 D for all 1.9 PD-TDIs... what years are we talking about here?