Wheel Alignment VW Bora

Hello,
"After I installed a new suspension (Bilstein / Eibach), I wanted to have the alignment checked and adjusted. According to the report, the mechanics started with the settings for a standard VW suspension. Additionally, they only adjusted the toe alignment on the front axle."
Okay, here are my questions:
1) Do the target values depend on the installed suspension (lowering)?
2) Can only the track be adjusted?
3) After-lag unchanged at 6°54' (target: 7°20' - 8°20');
Lag time remains unchanged: -0°24' or -0°30' (Target: -1°03' to -0°03'). Values are outside the target range. These values cannot be adjusted.
4.) The measurement was performed using Visuliner. Are the values entered manually or automatically? The values for the rear axle were swapped (originally right, then left).

1) Yes, you should have it aligned after installing the VW sport suspension.

2) Yes, on a Golf 4 with rear-wheel drive, nothing can be adjusted at the rear axle if it's front-wheel drive.

3) See point 1); this should solve the problem.

4) What is the author trying to tell us? The values are predetermined, depending on what the Klingon user enters for the vehicle and chassis. However, classifying a Bora with Bilstein chassis components as a standard chassis should really be penalized.

Hi,

Where do these modified values come from? In the reports that I have.
According to my knowledge, there are no changed settings for "liegen habe" (KW; Apex).
Contact the chassis manufacturer directly, or would their customer service department also be helpful?
Sort a VW workshop a little bit?

Best regards,
Stefan.

As I understand it, only the track width can be adjusted. However, this value should be independent of the lowering of the vehicle.
The track angle indicates the angle of the wheels relative to the direction of travel when viewed from the front. Ideally, this should be 0°. In front-wheel drive vehicles, there is usually a slight toe-in, meaning that both wheels point slightly inward.

Since other values cannot be changed, there likely won't be any corresponding values. As mentioned before, one could approximate the values based on those of a VW sport suspension system.

Hello.
There is nothing to adjust on the rear axle.
The front axle is only adjusted for toe (toe-in/toe-out) and, of course, camber.
So that the vehicle runs straight.
The follow-up values are within the tolerance, so everything is within the acceptable range.
It would also be interesting to see the top performers, as those are the most important.
Best regards, fisirota.

With the Golf4 FW, the camber cannot be adjusted directly. It is achieved optimally by fully pushing the shock absorber (or damper) into its clamping position on the suspension arm.

Julian writes:

Quote:

This is optimally achieved by pressing the shock absorber, or damper, completely (!) into its clamping bracket on the suspension arm.

Does it even have any play? I thought the damper would also have an eyelet or protrusion that connects to the clamping bracket, so that the length cannot be adjusted.

How does the camber adjustment work on the Golf IV, specifically using the control arms? At the ends of the control arms, there's an axle joint attached with 3 screws. Are there possibly elongated holes provided there? Apparently, something similar was once available on the Audi 80 B4.

The Golf 4 only has a small protrusion on the shock absorber to prevent it from being inserted incorrectly into its housing. If it's not aligned properly, you might have to push it in all the way.

It is true that the lower suspension arm has three screw-nut connections that can be slightly loosened and adjusted, but unfortunately, precise and accurate alignment of the camber is not possible.

The alignment on the Golf 4 was actually always correct on the vehicles I inspected, but only if the shock absorber was fully inserted into its mount. If it wasn't, even the adjustment option on the suspension arm wouldn't help.
Please have these connections tightened by the manufacturer and have the damper mounting checked!

You write:

Lag unchanged: -0°24´ or -0°30´ (Target: -1°03´ to -0°03´). Values are outside the target range.

'Surely you mean the deviation. The tolerance is between zero and minus one. You have a deviation of minus half. That's within the tolerance, right?'

Furthermore, a proper alignment is much more important than the camber.

The rake is geometrically predetermined. The rake is the angle of inclination of the steering axis when viewed from the side. The offset would be the angle viewed from the front.
The steering axis is the virtual axis that passes through the center of the strut and the lower ball joint.
The overhang might increase slightly if the vehicle is lowered, but there's nothing you can do about that, and it's not a critical issue.
With extremely low ride heights, at best, one could use asymmetrical strut mounts.

What's the point of using values from a sports suspension? Well, you're essentially pre-loading the axle by introducing toe-in and negative camber. Both angles cause the wheels to pull inward. This eliminates any play in the axle and makes the car feel more responsive. However, you'll likely experience smaller jolts when hitting potholes, and the tires will wear out faster. Whether or not you want to pre-load the axle has nothing to do with whether or not you have a sports suspension.

A negative camber results in slightly better grip for the outer rear wheel in corners. However, those expecting miracles should not forget about the rear axle, as not everyone can handle oversteering vehicles. But it's not that significant, really.
Furthermore, you lose braking power and engine power.