ABS Light On: Window & Turn Signal Problems

Hi,

Seat Ibiza, engine code ASV, 78,000 km, manufactured in 2000.

I've been experiencing the following problem for a few days:

The engine is started after being idle for an extended period (over 2 hours). The ABS and ASR warning lights remain illuminated for approximately 30 seconds.
During this time, the turn signal does not function; there is only occasional "clicking" from the instrument cluster, but the lights themselves do not illuminate.
The electric windows are also not working. When the electric window controls are activated, the brake warning light sometimes flashes, and there is a three-beep sound.
Eventually, the ABS/ASR warning lights will turn off, and everything will function as normal (including the ABS and ASR systems, when required).

However, since this morning, the lights have not been turning off. And because of that, they are also not blinking.
Unfortunately, I'm currently in France for six months and don't have my VAGCom interface with me.

Does anyone have a tip?
I would like to disconnect the power to the ABS control unit for testing purposes; can I simply remove the corresponding fuse without expecting any problems? Is this fuse located in the engine compartment or is it accessible from the interior, among all the other fuses? (I'm not currently at the car ).


Thank you for the responses.

Georg.

Yes, simply disconnecting the fuse is usually enough to temporarily cut off the power to the control unit.

Hi,

What is your onboard voltage? Low voltage could explain the behavior, and the deterioration suggests that the voltage is continuing to decrease.

It can be easily measured with a Bauhaus multimeter.

Best regards,

Jan.

Hi.

@ Theresias:
Okay, I guess I'll trip the breaker and see what happens. But first, I need to find it.

@ Jan6K
Yes, I read a post of yours using the search function where you attributed the re-lighting of the lights immediately after starting the engine to a voltage drop. I don't have a multimeter right now, but the density of the liquid in the battery is at its maximum (i.e., fully charged).
Nevertheless, that would be a good explanation, because drawing more power (e.g., for electric windows or turn signals) is not possible.
But the parking lights come on while the other lights are malfunctioning.


Sunny greetings from Grenoble.
Georg.

Hi,

The parking lights work even without any electronics, while the turn signals and power windows are controlled by their respective control units. These control units might be malfunctioning, which could be causing the problem – perhaps there's a short circuit somewhere in the system.

I would spend a few euros on a multimeter and test it. It's best to measure from the fuse to ground.

Best regards,

Jan.

Perhaps there was a water leak.

Hi,

@Jan6K

"So, the window lifters are controlled by a control unit? Well, that makes sense, considering that in some cars, the remote control is also used to close the windows. What a ridiculous amount of technology for something so simple."
I will still check the voltage next.

@ Joergs

No, there was no water leak. It was sunny here. However, strangely enough, it worked this morning, after it rained for the first time in 3 weeks last night.

I disconnected the ABS fuse, but it didn't improve the situation with the turn signals or the power windows.
"Even trying different cable connections didn't help. I guess I'll just have to wait until I get my vAgcoM interface back."

Since the lights have been turning off after about 60 seconds so far, I'll probably have to deal with this problem for a while without doing anything else. However, just to be safe, I might disconnect the fuse for the ABS system, so that I can at least brake when I want to, and the electronics don't accidentally interfere.
I once experienced this in a Passat where the ABS failed to allow me to brake. (Road surface was dry and in good condition). Shouldn't the control units be better protected against such malfunctions?

Greetings,
Georg.

Quote:

I actually experienced something like that once with a Passat, where the ABS prevented me from braking. (Road surface was dry and good). Shouldn't the control units be better protected against such malfunctions?

This is a complete and utter disaster.

That's precisely why such a strong emphasis is placed on quality assurance in the software development for these control units.

I really can't imagine that the ABS system completely failed. Wasn't something else broken as well?

Greetings.
m;

Hi,

"First, I would check all the ground cables on the relay panel. If you don't find anything obvious there, then measure the voltage between all the 'ground pins' in the connectors of the affected control units and the car body. If you find any voltage that is not 0V, you should investigate that cable more closely."

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello.


The error has disappeared as quickly as it appeared. I haven't measured anything yet (I'm also missing all my electronics equipment at the moment), but I found an interesting link from the manufacturer that explains a lot about ABS and ASR.

http://www.wabco.info/intl/pdf/815/000/240/815_240.pdf


Let it crash...

Georg.

Hello,

I was able to narrow down the problem to the relay with the printed number "100".
It gets very hot in the device and seems to be unstable. In any case, my problem is reproducible if you wiggle the relay.
If you remove the relay, the ABS and ASR lights will illuminate, and the turn signals, power windows, and interior ventilation will lose power.

However, a purely visual inspection of the relay's internal components did not reveal any findings.
I really need to use a multimeter to test the relay housing, otherwise nothing will work. Does anyone know how much that part costs, and what happens if you simply bypass it?

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Georg.

Georg_G wrote:

We were able to narrow down the problem to the relay with the printed number "100". It gets very hot in the machine and seems to have some instability.

Will it get significantly hotter than, for example, the 109?
It can get quite warm compared to the surroundings, depending on the duration of operation -> You could even describe it as hot, but if your car isn't making any unusual noises (like a "109" sound), you can use this as a reference for the normal warming up of a relay.

Hello Ulf,

The 100 relay is clearly the warmest of all, with an approximate outdoor temperature of 50°C. It's noticeably warmer than the 109 relay, and the motor starts up after only 5 minutes.

The relay is mechanically functioning correctly; I once connected it to a power supply.

Let's look further.

Georg.

Georg_G wrote:

The 100 relay is clearly the warmest of all, with an approximate outdoor temperature of 50°C. It's noticeably warmer than the 109 relay, and this is evident even after just 5 minutes of the motor running.

Hm, I wonder if this is due to a lower winding resistance (-> comparison measurement with the 109 ).

If the winding resistances are practically the same, then you likely have a series resistance in the load circuit.

Hi,

If I'm not mistaken, relay 100 is for the X-emergency contact. A significant amount of current should be flowing through it, so contact problems could easily cause heat and other issues.

Best regards,

Jan.

Hello,

A small addition to this topic:

It appears that the 100-series relay is indeed the culprit. At first glance, nothing seems amiss, but upon closer inspection of the contact surfaces that are pressed together by the electromagnet, it's evident that the surfaces are heavily oxidized.
And testing with a multimeter sometimes showed correspondingly high resistances when simulating the on/off switching of the electromagnet using a 12V power supply.

I scraped the contact surfaces with a small knife, and so far it seems to be working.

Best regards, Georg.