Timing Belt Pulley Adhesive: Which One to Use?

Hello,

After I replaced all sorts of parts, including the timing belt, and it finally ran perfectly again without any noise, the next problem has already appeared.

The whole thing lasted for about two weeks.

Now, it's having trouble starting. It eventually starts after one or two attempts, but then it immediately dies.
If you repeat this with a little bit of gas, it will produce a puff of smoke from the back and then, after a few seconds, it will run perfectly fine.
If I turn it off after a minute and then try to start it again, it does the same thing.

Once it's warmed up, it starts normally again.

He doesn't always do that in the morning, it depends on the weather.

I'm pressing on the timing belt pulley!

While the 1Z engine (which is a replacement engine) already has the new screw installed, what else could it be?

This morning, I briefly took it to VW, and they told me that a certain value related to the fuel injection start was at 0. According to VW, it should be at 50 ??? (I have no idea what they meant by that).

I've got a new screw and a new wheel now. I'll try to tackle it this Saturday.

What kind of adhesive should I use to attach this? Are there any that you would recommend?

Pritt glue stick, for paper?

Please use the search function; you'll find plenty of reading material there to keep you occupied until your repair is completed this weekend.

Hey, is the pulley wobbling in the axial direction? Did you also check the crankshaft stub, or did you just replace the screw?

Best regards, Robert.

@joergs

To avoid giving such answers, I will explain it again .

When I remove the wheel, it will likely be slightly bent.

I don't feel like changing the crankshaft on that piece of junk!

I just want it to last a long time!

Is there a specific adhesive from VW, or is regular metal adhesive from aftermarket suppliers sufficient?

VW wants to sell me a replacement engine block!!!

My tip again: use the search function!

There are possibilities without having to replace the crankshaft, provided the damage is limited. However, you should do some research and reading. This has been a recurring issue here!

@LZ

Tell me, is the pulley wobbling in the axial direction?

Approximately two to three millimeters.

It will probably be loose.

I couldn't find anything about that adhesive in the search results.

It doesn't apply to the adhesive, but there's a tool that can be used to sharpen the cone!

... Stick it!

VW only creates the initial bond between the components through the pressing forces. For this to happen, the lower control arm stub must be perfectly flat... The rest can be found using the search function.
The adhesive between the pressed surfaces severely degrades the adhesion and only exacerbates the problem. Only the screw can be secured with threadlocker.

You see, the plan view needs to be reworked, otherwise it won't work.

Best regards, Robert.

I read something about using glue somewhere here in the forum. It's not my idea! Apparently, some workshops supposedly do that!

The whole problem is that if I take everything apart on Saturday, I won't be able to buy anything else on Monday. The car absolutely has to be working again by Sunday! Otherwise, I won't be able to get to work!

What does the tool look like, and where can I get it, or how much does it cost?
Is there perhaps another way to obtain the stump plan?

Think about the stress that's being put on it! Timing belts sometimes break too, but they're definitely more durable than a glued joint.

The information you read about this is correct. However, I hope you also read the opinions about it. This won't last in the long run.

The only thing you need is the tool for planning the crankshaft journal. Without it, you shouldn't even start. If you're lucky, a VAG specialist workshop or a well-equipped engine rebuilder might be able to help you. I used to have a link to the manufacturer of this tool, but I can't find it right now.

Alternatively, you can do it as Rainer described somewhere: use abrasive paste, a pulley wheel, and rotate, rotate, rotate... However, the appropriate tool is a better alternative.

4-Runner wrote:

Is there perhaps another way to get the stump plan???

Valve grinding compound and keep turning until your hand falls off???

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joergs wrote:

Alternatively, it can also be done as Rainer described somewhere: use abrasive paste, a pulley wheel, and rotate, rotate, rotate...

Hi,

"However, this was about the truncated cone of the drive pulley on a moped... I don't think it would work as well on a flat surface."

joergs wrote:

but the corresponding tool is the better alternative

Okay.

Best regards, Rainer.

Alternatively, it can also be done as Rainer described somewhere: use abrasive paste, a pulley wheel, and rotate, rotate, rotate...

Hi,

'However, this was about the truncated cone of the drive pulley on a moped... I don't think it would work as well on a flat surface.'

but the corresponding tool is the better alternative
Okay.

Greetings, Rainer

uuuups....... then Mirko's Alzheimer has been at play again.

This grinding tool looks essentially like a valve seat grinder used for faucets. The only potential problem might be accurately centering such a grinder from the plumbing area onto the crankshaft (crankshaft) so that the planned surface is perpendicular to the crankshaft's longitudinal axis.