10 Cent tuning on an ALE engine with no effect!

Hi everyone, I'm one of the new people here!
Habe intensiv euer Forum studiert und finde es super! Trotz Nutzung der Suchfunktion bin ich bei meinem Thema nicht weitergekommen. Habe alles über das 10Cent-Tuning gelesen, leider funktioniertes bei mir nicht!? Bei meinem Fahrzeug handelt es sich um einen `98er Golf3 Variant, 220TKm gelaufen mit MKB ALE (es ist ein 4Zylinder TDI mit 90PS, nicht wie z.T. fälschlich u.a. zu lesen, ein 2,5TDI. Gemeint war in dem Thread wohl MKB AEL?). First of all, I'm not sure if I have a VP37 inside (since it lacks the "identifying feature" of an aluminum cover).
I read that the pump has a higher injection pressure to achieve better emission values. So my question is: Is it possible to tune this engine/ESP? I've tried the following solutions: A potentiometer with two antiparallel diodes connected in series, placed parallel to pins 2 and 3 on the connector. The potentiometer was set to 300 ohms (then reduced to 250 ohms). No effect. Then I tried again without the diodes, just the potentiometer parallel to pins 2 and 3 (starting with 1 kOhm, then reducing it to 750 Ohms). It was only activated after starting the engine. The result: the idle speed increased by about 50 RPM, but there was no noticeable increase in power! I then measured the resistance between pins 2 and 3 (without the potentiometer) to determine the coil's resistance: 6 ohms. Does that seem right for a VP37? Does anyone know of a solution? Best regards!

Kennt ihr einer eine Lösung? Greetings!

I need to rev the engine below 250 RPM for something to happen.

Just gradually lower the potentiometer.

Since tuning with a device that modifies the engine's performance by only a small amount (e.g., 10%) is not allowed in public transportation areas, you shouldn't have any problems if the device causes the vehicle to go into emergency mode during testing.
Then turn off the engine, increase the potentiometer again, and continue on.

CU Gremlin.

Hi B.C.,

To broaden your search scope a bit:

Your ALE is essentially nothing more than a Euro-3 AHU, which in turn is almost identical to the 1Z.

Therefore, you will be able to apply almost everything written for the 1Z or AHU models to your ALE as well.

Differences:
- The AHU and ALE units use a different type of flexible ducting, similar to the AFN unit.
- The ALE (presumably a vehicle or component) needs to have 220 bar nozzles due to the Euro 3 emissions standard, while the AHU and 1Z models have 190 bar nozzles.
- The ALE engine has a different exhaust manifold (with a larger volume, similar to the G4 engines).

Due to the higher opening pressure of the INJECTORS (which is not related to the pump), some performance characteristics are slightly different, but only minimally.

My Z1 is working great with a 10Ct resistor (500 ohms without diodes), and I was also able to "modify" my friend's AKU (1.7 SDI) using the same method (680 ohms without diodes). However, it only resulted in a noticeable increase in noise, while the power output increased only minimally.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

I also tried it once in a Golf III from 1995 (with a 1Z engine).

With 2 antiparallel diodes, absolutely nothing happens.
(tried a few times, no improvement).
Even when I turned the potentiometer all the way down.

Without diodes, things get pretty wild. 610 ohms is my ideal value.
No Russians, may already be active when the ignition is turned on!!

If you turn it on and off while the engine is running, then...
The LL speed briefly increases or decreases, but then self-regulates back to the normal level.

Sometimes, when riding at a speed of 80 km/h (in 5th gear) with very little throttle, there's a slight jerkiness.

-> It should be possible to make it adjustable, or perhaps control it with the accelerator pedal.
control rules (FET)
Has anyone tried this before?


However, I've expanded it because I often travel abroad as well.
and wants to avoid any problems with the friendly border guards.

@ Hollari

Yeah, I've observed all of that as well (except for the diodes, which I didn't even install).

I also often travel abroad, but if I drive into Luxembourg at 100 kilometers per hour, there won't be any border guards there anyway .

I also experienced it in France, Austria, and Italy.

Why shouldn't I drive around with a "measurement adapter"?

However, I have it connected to a second rear window defroster switch so that it can be turned on and off.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Hi guys! Thanks in advance for the quick responses and suggestions! I'll try them out right away.
Okay, the explanation about the anti-parallel diodes in relation to the threshold voltage seemed plausible, but you have to consider the amplitude of the signal. If someone knows the peak-to-peak value (Vpp) of the control signal, I could do some calculations.
@dieselmartin: Thanks for the "Differences" document. Finally, I have a good overview! So, the ALE definitely has a VP37, and the higher injection pressure is only due to the injectors.

I'll let you know if and when it works.

THANK YOU!!!!

Hello!

Forgot something else:

I oscillographed the voltage at pin 2 and pin 3.
(also even while driving)

There are approximately 3 volts of DC voltage present.
And on one of the pins, there was approximately 4V peak-to-peak alternating voltage (at a few kHz; I didn't measure it exactly).

The voltages are largely constant. (They are probably regulated somehow.)

Only when you suddenly release the accelerator does the alternating voltage occur.
gone. (until something else is injected).

That's why I'm not surprised that it's not working with the diodes.





Question for everyone:

Has anyone ever tried using a FET (Field-Effect Transistor) for this?

To achieve this (in my opinion), you would only need to adjust the signal from the accelerator pedal.
tap into it, possibly amplify it slightly (using an OPV), and connect it to the gate of...
put a FET on it.

Then the tuning would be gently adjusted based on the position of the accelerator pedal.

Has anyone ever tried using a FET (Field-Effect Transistor) for this?


Yes, Authal. They then sold it as a complete solution.
Ulf had that part in his old G3 AFN.

Best regards, Rudi.

@ Hollari

Do you have an HDK pump, or are you still using the older ones with the resistor?

To the best of my knowledge, there should be an alternating voltage applied to pins 2 and 3 on the HDK pump.


Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

@diesemartin:

I have the one with the oval connector (8-pin).

I'm not entirely sure, but I think that...
She has the spools inside.

(would also be unnecessary with an Ohmic temperature sensor)
To measure AC voltage, or not?


By the way:
I measured both pins (2 and 3) against the vehicle's ground.

That means that only alternating current is present between the pins.

@Rudi:

Do you have a schematic diagram for it?

Or, do you have any ideas about where would be best?
'that intercepts the signal from the accelerator pedal?'

hollari wrote:

Or do you have any idea where the best place is? that captures the signal from the accelerator pedal?

I recently measured this part.
/viewtopic.php?t=7698
However, you have a 6-pin connector installed, while I have a 5-pin one (I have a resistance pump).
I think the 6-pin version has a second switching contact.

Do you have a schematic diagram of it?
not copied.

Or do you have any idea where the best place is?
that captures the signal from the accelerator pedal?

Throttle position sensor or engine control unit.

'Authal tapped into the boost pressure as a reference value; the mass airflow sensor (MAF) signal is also being used.'
(Both are better than the accelerator pedal because they use actual values instead of target values.)

Best regards, Rudi.

Is one of the signals located at the fuel injector pump connector?

'Or another usable one?'

I can't imagine that being the case, because they have no place there (it doesn't make sense).

You'll have to find that information elsewhere, for example, at the MSTG .

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

@Hollari and Dieselschrauber:
Habe in meinem ALE ja auch den 8poligen Stecker. Wie ich sagte, mißt man mit einem einfachen Vielfachmeßgerät den Wirkwiderstand (also den Widerstand der Spule, der bei einer Gleichspannung wirkt), in meinem Falle 6Ohm (eine Spule besteht halt nur aus einem Stück Draht, und ist daher entspr. niederohmig). Dieser Wert sagt jedoch nichts über das Verhalten bei einer entspr. Wechselspannung aus. Wenn ihr einen entspr. niedrigen Wert meßt, deutet das meiner Meinung nach, deutet das nicht auf eine HDK hin. Eine Widerstandsregelung mit so niedrigen Werten läßt sich nicht realisieren. BeThe values in the HDK should be significantly higher.

@Hollari: Wenn wir über eine Spule reden, hat das nichts mehr mit einem "Ohmschen Fühler" oder Gleichspannung zu tun. Dann reden wir definitiv über ein Wechselspannungssignal (evtl. mit Gleichspannungsanteil). Reine Gleichspannung läßt sich nicht mittels Spule übertragen. Dazu paßt auch das Bild, das dein ozillographiertes Signal nur bei Gaspedalbetätigung oder Leerlauf ansteht. Daher auch die antiparallelen Dioden. Du sagst, das sich die Amplitude (peak to peak) nicht ändert? Das kann gut sein. Wird wohl über Frequenz (Impuls-/Pausenverhältnis) gemacht. Wenn dauerhaft nur 4Vpp anstehen, sind durch die Dioden schon mal 0,6V weg. Wie gesagt, alles nur Vermutungen. MaI actually need a circuit diagram.

@Gremlin: Yesterday I tried using a 650 Ohm resistor. ACTUALLY, it resulted in increased power! Of course, I wouldn't do that in public transportation areas. If the engine stalls, no problem. As long as it restarts? Does it actually store an error code in the memory then?

Greetings.