Principle: Using bitumen or wax as a bottom protection

Hi,

Since I slightly tilted my jack and know this thread, here's a basic question:

What are the differences (properties, advantages, disadvantages) between bitumen-based and wax-based waterproofing compounds?

Specifically: I also forced a piece of organic undercoating into place, and now I have a can of "Holts Bitumen..." stuff available. There's also some kind of waxy substance at the hardware store, and I still have "Mike Sanders Corrosion Protection Wax" (which is probably *the* classic undercoating for old cars).

Can I safely spray this bitumen-based product onto my 9-year-old Trek bike?

Thank you.
Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

When it comes to lovingly restored classic cars, I would always opt for wax. For our everyday vehicles, I would use the existing bitumen. Wax has the advantages of being more environmentally friendly (supposedly) and is easier to remove. Removing bitumen completely is a real job.

Bei Wachsen habe ich die Erfahrung gemacht, dass Sie sich mit der Zeit abwaschen (natürlich nur in Bereichen wo Wasser mit Druck aufgesprüht wird) und diese meist, durch die klebrige Oberfläche, auch mehr Schmutz an sich binden. Ich verwende daher Wachse nur für Bereiche die keinem starken Sprühwasser ausgesetzt sind. Genauso sprühe ich es auf alle Steckerverbindungen im Motorraum und auch auf das Kabel (wenn dort ein wenig Kupfer zu sehen ist). Ich habe damit recht gute Erfahrungen gemacht und dadurch sehr wenige Störungen durch korrodierte Übergänge gehabt. Es It all depends on the correct dosage.
Since I wash the underside of the car with a pressure washer, I use bitumen or something similar to patch any damage because it's less likely to be washed away.
I've had pretty good experiences with Teroson wax (not the black one, but the light one). However, I would always prime and paint bare metal beforehand.

Hi there,
Bitumen becomes brittle with age and can then easily rust underneath, which is why products based on wax are often preferred today. However, most aftermarket products aren't particularly durable. Since the potential for rust probably won't be a major issue for you, just use whatever you have available.

Regards,

Olli.

@olli:
Which product would you recommend to help prevent rust?

Hello,
A rust-proof PAINT!
Neither wax nor bitumen alone can prevent rust.
Best regards,
Günther.

www.korrosionsschutz-depot.de
That's where the experts are!

Thank you.

As far as I can tell so far, it seems that only the protective coating has been pushed away, and there are no visible damages to the primer. Therefore, one of these "large containers" should be sufficient.

I'll take another close look at it and then apply the bitumen from the can.

Am I allowed to apply bitumen and then, once I have it, apply a thick layer of "Mike Sanders Wax" on top?

Or perhaps bitumen and wax are incompatible.

The problem is the timing and location – I have bitumen *now* and need to leave tomorrow, but I won't get the wax until later.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Hi there,

Mike Sander isn't wax, but fat, and therefore, in my opinion, not suitable for underbody protection because it will wash away. It has a consistency similar to Vaseline (it might even BE Vaseline). I have applied it to almost all the cavities, but not underneath the floor.

Greetings.
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Dieter"

Hi,

Quote:

As far as I can tell so far, only the protective coating has been pushed away, and there are no visible damages to the primer.

What's the actual problem with slightly warming the original material at the pushed-back area with a heat gun (in such a way that no other parts are affected) and then pushing it back into place?

That should actually be the best solution, provided everything is verschandeln and nothing is damaged.

Best regards,

Jan.

Nope, it's not possible.

The original Sturck part is already gone. I had tampered with it to see what it was. Besides, there will be a tear left behind – like when you cut yourself and a piece of skin remains hanging on.

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Hi,

Hmm... my father actually did the same thing on his Passat. If you heat it up enough, there won't be any cracks left.

If you've already agreed to do it, why not just try heating up that loose piece to see what happens? Perhaps (I've never tried this), you might be able to get it into a workable condition.

Best regards,

Jan.

Okay, then the detailed version .

It was hanging down, so I tore it off and played with it, stretched it out, and looked at it closely.

When I had completely destroyed it, I threw it away .

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Hi there.

@wolfi_b

When it comes to rust protection or rust prevention, it's probably not easy to answer, and opinions vary quite a bit. s. http://f23.parsimony.net/forum46030/

Personally, I use Fluid Film or Perma Film from Hodt on my classic car, and so far it has effectively stopped any existing corrosion.
With fresh sheets of metal, if you can still find it, lead solder can be used as a base layer, and then you can apply whatever flux you prefer.
By the way, the Permafilm coating is quite durable, even in areas exposed to splashing water (wheel arches, edges, etc.).


Best regards from Berlin.
Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

*Dust bunny puff*

My 9-year-old Ibiza is now also starting to show body rust from the bottom , but I still want to continue driving it without it rusting away completely underneath me.
I just looked at some descriptions of Permafilm, for example, http://www.militaerlacke.de/korrosionsschutz/fluidfilm/permafilm.php.

Can anyone recommend better, easier-to-use products here?

Hi!

Okay, I usually keep my cars for longer periods; my Golf is currently 17 years old.
Coincidentally, today I decided to take care of the corners around the door threshold because things were starting to get a bit messy there.
So, it's located in the muddy area behind the inner wheel arch liner.

I had already experimented with wax a few years ago, but it didn't work out very well.

Yesterday, I removed the rust and scraped off any loose underbody coating. Then, I applied a zinc spray. This morning, I applied a thick, flexible underbody sealant from Teroson, and tonight, I'm planning to apply a top coat of paint.
Also, here's the translation:

"And also, there are some features like the jack points and a few other details."
Let's see what it will be like in 2 years...

Otherwise, for the normal undercarriage, engine mounts, pipes, where there isn't a thick layer of grease, I lightly spray it once a year with a mixture of motor oil and heating oil plus graphite powder, as needed.
It gets into all the cracks, and then another layer of Elaskon underlayment is applied using a spray gun.
It combines with the leather goods, doesn't drip off, and keeps them beautifully soft for years.
In the summer, when it's warm, it becomes thin again, flexible, and almost self-healing.
I've been doing it this way for 20 years, and it works.
However, not in the direct splash zone of the wheels.
It won't last forever.