Encouraging news regarding camel-riding syndrome in 1Z

Hello. It's me again. Thank you again for all your helpful tips regarding the aforementioned topic.
Camelback syndrome, starting around 3500 RPM. Here's what I did. My tuning box could be turned on and off, even while driving. I thought that if it was turned off, it wouldn't have any influence on the fuel injection system anymore. Not only did I think that, but so did all the VAG workshops I visited. However, this tuning box from Authal probably had a fault.
Even when the device was turned off, it had subtly altered certain values.
I completely disabled the part, removed it, and lo and behold, the aforementioned problem no longer occurred. I've now bought another tuning box where you can adjust the power with a potentiometer until the engine starts to cough }. It's a very simple principle, using a built-in resistor. In my opinion, the increase in power is very significant. I just need to figure out how to deal with the slightly fluctuating idle. I also noticed that the turbocharger kicks in at around 1440/min, and the fuel consumption, according to the MFA, has dropped rapidly (3.8 l). I'll be able to easily determine whether I can really trust that display in the MFA when I fill up the tank next time. Anyway, it's a nice thing, and I hope the engine will tolerate the tuning in the long run, not too badly. People talk a lot about the engine protection function being preserved, but I'm still a little skeptical. Finally, I can once again say that I belong to the TDi drivers and no longer to the 'camel riders' ). Heiko2.

What kind of device are you using right now?

Hello. The manufacturer of the box calls itself 'Abrieb-Tuning'. It might sound dangerous, because...
The word 'Abrieb' probably has something to do with the company's name. It is only.
'Two connectors, one for the ESP and one for the main cable. The total length is approximately 15-20 cm.' In between the cable strands, there's a small plastic box, about 5 cm in size, with a built-in...
Resistor with adjustable potentiometer. Simple, straightforward, and reasonably affordable on eBay. Nothing costing 500-1000 €. Everything is in the double-digit price range. We'll see how it performs in the long run. So far, I can only say 'wow'... I'm really surprised by such a significant increase in power, even at just over 1200 RPM. Here in the mountains, it's now possible to drive up a hill in 4th or even 5th gear without worrying that the engine will break down. On the highway, there's no noticeable lack of power up to 4500 RPM. According to the speedometer, my car was running at 215 km/h. That was pure utopia before. The only problem with all of this is that it produces a lot of smoke under full load, like it did 20 years ago. I'll have to temporarily remove it for the emissions test. As I said, I am very satisfied so far. Heiko2.

And with a search here in the forum, the fun wouldn't have cost in the two-digit € range, but in the two-digit cent range .

I would urgently check the settings of this device. It could turn out to be quite expensive. Keyword: extremely prolonged injection times. The search function is also your friend and helper here!

Have you ever looked at the technical article about the "10cent tuning" method? That's exactly what you're using, and frankly, it's not worth much more. It's a shame that someone is overdoing the potentiometer adjustment, and that a Russian fog machine is affecting everyone around. I'm not against affordable tuning, but please don't have it cause such side effects for innocent bystanders.

You probably haven't looked at the technical article yet, otherwise you wouldn't mention the consumption value of the MFA.

Regards,
Guste.

EDIT: Lappen was faster again...

Heiko2 wrote:

This tuning box from Authal probably had a short circuit. Even when the device was turned off, it had subtly altered certain values. I completely disabled the part, removed it, and lo and behold, the aforementioned problem no longer occurred.

I used to have an Authal box at AFN, and I was actually quite satisfied with it.
Since the box evaluates the boost pressure for determining the amount of overboost, camel riding is certainly conceivable, but should be avoidable through a sensible adjustment of the potentiometers.

Did your "power switch" function correctly, meaning was there a noticeable difference between the on and off states?
Was the performance characteristic different when the box was disconnected compared to when it was turned off?

Regarding the rest of your new setup, the fog machine, and the risks involved, Lappen and Guste have already expressed their opinions -> I agree with them.

Hi,

I also agree... Additionally, this whole thing is likely without an ABE (German approval certificate) and is therefore highly illegal. Furthermore, these types of fog lights are harmful to everyone.

Regarding the MFA (Multi-Factor Authentication): It no longer displays anything useful because the MSG (Message Service Gateway) can only output what "appears" to be data. Since you're currently negating that with your resistance, you can forget about using the MFA without making any adjustments.

Best regards,

Jan.

Jan6K wrote:

Can you forget the MFA without any adjustments.

Hi Jan,

and thus, the often-high expectations of reduced fuel consumption (achieved through tuning boxes or basic chip tuning based on the box principle) are regularly dashed when refueling – especially if you compare the amount of fuel added with the distance traveled, using the MFA (Multifunction Display) data.

...and all of this is documented in detail in the relevant scientific articles! If people would just take the time to read and understand them, even superficially. Or is this perhaps just clumsy advertising?

Hello. First, a question for you, Ulf. On the dynamometer, the 'Authalbox' (presumably a performance module) gave me 98 horsepower even when it was turned off. When the box was turned on, it produced...
At least 115 horsepower. That makes a noticeable difference on the highway or when driving uphill.
but not noticeable. Sure, a slight jolt when turning it on and a slightly improved [performance/result].
Acceleration figures, yes, but that wasn't the real story. When I came up with the idea,
'When I completely plastered and built the entire car with clay, I realized that...'
the car was no longer as fuel-efficient, and the consumption increased by approximately 0.3-0.5 liters.
Most likely, this is due to the corrupted values, with the built-in and activated box preventing the MSG from correctly assigning them. During the test ride with the storage box removed, I noticed while going uphill that the camel-like riding experience...
came to an end. After submitting the box to Authal, I was told that some...
'The built-in component was no longer functioning completely, and the only way to avoid the camel riding effect would be to set the two built-in potentiometers to their minimum values, but then there would be no...'
The performance increase is now more noticeable. And now, regarding everything else. The fluctuating idle speed was due to the potentiometer being turned too far to the right. According to the instructions, turn it as far as it goes until the engine becomes unstable, and then turn it back a quarter of a turn. This is 1/4.
The rotation was probably not enough. I kept the engine running and turned it about three-quarters of a rotation to the left, then briefly gave it some gas and let the engine return to idle. The uneven and fluctuating idle speed is now gone.
Previously, a noticeable and unsettling idle was felt. The engine fluctuated when coming to a stop.
For example, at a traffic light while idling, the engine speed is between approximately 900-1000 RPM. Now, even under full load, there's no more visible smoke like there used to be 20 years ago, and yet a significant increase in power is noticeable. Of course, one shouldn't overdo it. The '10-cent tuning' thing was just too much work for me, and as an insurance agent and traveling salesman, I...
simply don't have the time for it. Sure, 59.95 euros might seem like a lot to you at first, but for me, it's significantly less money than what some providers advertise, which can be 500-1000 euros.
I'm satisfied for now, and I'll see how my '€59.95 tuning' works out.
Over time, it behaves consistently. Finally, a note about fuel consumption. Over the weekend, I drove exactly 950 kilometers since the last refueling. Exactly 49.5 liters of fuel went into the tank until the pump automatically shut off. That results in a consumption.
The actual consumption was exactly 5.21 liters per 100 kilometers. According to the onboard computer, it was 4.6 liters. So, a distortion of...
0.7 liters. That's within a reasonable range. I was using about that much before. Sometimes it was 4.7-4.9 liters, and sometimes around 5.4 liters. So, it's right in the middle. Everything is fine:-)). Heiko2.

Heiko2 wrote:

This results in a consumption of exactly 5.21 liters per 100 kilometers. According to the MFA (Multi-Function Display), it was 4.6 liters. So, a discrepancy of 0.7 liters.

For me, it's more like 0.6 liters, which is a 13% increase in quantity. [url]

If this module causes the engine to idle erratically when set too high, it is likely a basic model (1 potentiometer without diodes), which will increase all injection amounts by approximately 13%.

The air intake box resulted in a power gain of 115 horsepower, which is an increase of 17% compared to the original 98 horsepower.
According to this, you would be sacrificing approximately 4% of performance by using the new device, and therefore I can't quite understand your enthusiasm about its power ("Even at full load, there's no more visible blurring like there was 20 years ago, and yet a significant performance increase is noticeable."). Advertising, as Lappen suspected?
Because normally, you can't get much power out of an engine using a carburetor without it producing a lot of unsightly black smoke.

Do you still have that issue with the fuel temperature sensor?
[/url]/viewtopic.php?t=10320

Hello. Yes, the error with the fuel temperature sensor is still present.
According to the VAG workshop. I wouldn't know why I should advertise here for a...
Product that I do not distribute and from which I do not derive any profit. If I...
On the highway, according to the speedometer, I can reach approximately 215 km/h, which means...
'I'm only certain that there is a performance increase. I will go back to Bosch and have them test the performance on their dynamometer, and I will get written confirmation of the actual performance.' There is definitely more power available, compared to using the Authalbox, with its aforementioned features.
115 horsepower. As soon as I have the result, I will post it here. Will the turbocharger engage earlier with increased fuel injection? The product description clearly states that both injection timing and injection volume are modified. Both are adjusted using potentiometers. Ulf, according to your calculations, I would only have a power output of approximately 101.7 horsepower (which is 13% more). However, this doesn't align with the stated top speed and the claimed pulling power from around 1440 RPM, across the entire rev range.
According to the seller on eBay (oldienight), a power increase of up to 38 horsepower is possible. Feel free to check it out on eBay yourself. By the way, I'm there as (herotilapia777). You can see that I don't deal in or offer anything like that. I'm definitely convinced by this box, at least for now. What's not possible today might be possible tomorrow, but I don't want to hide anything or add anything. What would I gain from it? Best regards, Heiko2:-)))

Heiko2 wrote:

The product description clearly states that both the injection time and the injection volume can be adjusted. Both are adjusted using a potentiometer.

VP-Basics: Without changing the injection time, it is not possible to change the amount.
But in advertising (and I'm not specifically referring to you right now), two modified parameters naturally make a bigger impact than just one .

Hello. I don't know why they specifically targeted and removed the provider from ****.
There must be a reason for it. I just wanted to show you that I can fit inside this box.
in no way sell it or profit from it. It doesn't matter anyway.
The most important thing is that I am happy. 3, 2, 1, mine )) Heiko.

Hello. I just reread the forum rules and now I understand why.
As stated in my post ****. Of course, you're not advertising for other companies here. Okay.
I also reread the entire story about the '10-cent tuning' process.
came to the conclusion that the issue with the fuel temperature sensor was indeed the problem.
'This could be related to my previous issues. However, I don't understand why the error message was still present even when the module was disconnected and in its default state. If this is related to the fuel temperature, then any tuning in that direction would be unsuccessful in my car, as it constantly reports a value of -5°C. I particularly noticed the post by 'gagag,' which described in detail how to adjust such a module. Perhaps that's the issue, since my car constantly reports a value of -5°C. A friend of mine has a 2001 Passat with 110 horsepower. He recently rode in my car and also said that something is definitely wrong.' He would definitely get more things done, like fixing his car and taking care of everything else, starting around...
1400 revolutions per minute. I'm curious to see what the performance check will reveal. Heiko2.

Heiko2 wrote:

I also reread the entire story about the 10-cent tuning and came to the conclusion that the issue with the fuel temperature sensor might indeed be related to my previous problems.

Then, you read it again .

(For the VP, the 10-cent adjustment is applied based on the pump flow rate feedback manipulation. For the PD, the 10-cent adjustment is applied based on the fuel temperature.) Your 1Z is a VP (Valve Position), so the 10-cent tuning adjustment shouldn't cause a fuel temperature error for you.

Regards,
Guste.