AGR Valve Cleaning: Audi 80 (1Z) 1993

Hello, I know that this topic has been discussed many times before.
I've read some reports about decommissioning the AGR (Advanced Gas-cooled Reactor) and was horrified to see how much debris can accumulate in the intake system.
Okay, here's my question. I have the car described above, and I want to give it a thorough cleaning, as it has over 340,000 kilometers on the odometer, and I don't think anything has ever been cleaned in it, since the car has been in the family since it was new. However, I can't really complain, as it has only let me and my family down once (due to a transmission failure). I'm not sure if the EGR valve is still intact (I want to disable it with a plate). I've been buying a cleaning additive before every technical inspection and have occasionally driven the car a bit faster on the highway for about 100 kilometers. The reason for this is that I once failed the inspection due to the opacity values. I looked into a program to see how to remove the intake manifold. Unfortunately, I realized that I have to remove quite a few things to get to the intake manifold. These would include the turbocharger, the exhaust manifold, the air conditioning compressor, and other small components associated with them.
Could there be a simpler solution? I really don't want to remove the A/C compressor because I know how long it takes and how difficult it is. Also, the screws on the intake manifold will probably break off easily when I try to open it.
What would you do? I mean, I'd probably just leave everything as it is, because my car is actually running normally.
It reaches its top speed within a normal time frame. It has good acceleration from a standstill, but the performance isn't as impressive at higher speeds. Fuel consumption is between 6 and 7 liters per 100 km for short trips with a lot of braking and acceleration. However, on the highway at around 140 km/h, you can achieve a consumption of 5-5.5 liters per 100 km.

Unfortunately, I had to realize that I have to remove quite a few things to get to the intake manifold. These include the turbocharger, the exhaust manifold, the air conditioning compressor, and the other small things that are connected to it.



What kind of software are you using?

You need to remove exactly one hose clamp and 6 Allen head screws, and then you'll have the intake manifold in your hand!

http://img64.exs.cx/img64/345/motorraum22ug.jpg

Don't worry, the screws won't break off. They're not from the exhaust side. It takes about 30 minutes if you take your time.

Regards,

Manuel.

Okay, that's an A4. I have an 80, and on the side where you can clearly see your catalytic converter, there's the alternator and the AC compressor. To get to the AC compressor, you have to remove the turbo. If I could get access as easily as it looks in your picture, I'd be happy. Regarding the software, please contact me via private message.

A clever and fast way to tighten Allen screws!

The sock has 6 and min 2 for the AGR, which must be removed .

@ thom

I don't understand why you have to disassemble everything on the engine.

Even with my 1Z, it was all quite easy:
http://www.luxus-wg.de/~martin/auto_bilder/AGR_Saugstutzen/
http://www.luxus-wg.de/~martin/auto_bilder/AGR_Saugstutzen_sauber/
http://www.luxus-wg.de/~martin/auto_bilder/Kruemmer/

Otherwise, why don't you show us a picture of your engine compartment and what's all hanging around in there?

m;

Thank you for the response.
I took some pictures of the relevant location earlier.
Unfortunately, I don't know how to directly link the images, so here's just the link.

http://www.dreaddt.de/uploads/100_0824.JPG
http://www.dreaddt.de/uploads/100_0825.JPG
http://www.dreaddt.de/uploads/100_0826.JPG

@ dieselmartin, the pictures you took are really great, but I still have one question: You've definitely cleaned the entire intake manifold perfectly, but you can still see some deposits on the cylinder head itself. How did you remove those, or did you leave them as they are visible in the pictures?

I think I'm going to remove the AGR (Abgasrückführung) first, then I'll take a look and see how bad things are inside. Did you notice a significant improvement when everything was verschandeln again?

Hi,

Quote:

Did you notice a significant improvement when everything was verschandeln again?

I did it shortly after Dieselmartin (pictures: see search function), but I can't really answer this question objectively because I changed the oil and air filter at the same time. After that, the car felt better subjectively, but I think that's probably 90% due to the new air filter, because the old one was probably no longer the best after 45,000 km, even after being cleaned twice.

The 2.4 mm of dirt probably won't have much of an impact, but that might look different given your mileage.

I wouldn't verschandeln anything inside the cylinder head, as there's too great a risk that debris could cause damage.

Best regards,

Jan.

What material did you use for the AGR (Abgasrückführung) system, and what was the thickness of the sheet metal?

Hi,

"Ahem... who's talking about deactivation? You can also verschandeln the intake manifold and leave the EGR valve as it is. This has the disadvantage that you'll have to repeat the process eventually, but also the advantage that the car retains its approval certificate."

If you want to deactivate the agricultural land reserve (AGR) for any tests on private land, please use the search function; this has been discussed in great detail there.

Best regards,

Jan.

@ thom

Is that a TD or a TDI?

The KKK14 charger looks more like a TD to me, doesn't it?

I left the junk in my head alone because the risk of something "getting in" and "getting stuck" was too great.

I haven't noticed any significant changes. Probably also because it took me a week to complete the process, and I completely lost touch with how my car normally feels.

m;

@ Dieselmartin
No, it's a TDI.

Ah, so this is what the original TDI looks like, with a mass airflow sensor and 182 Nm of torque at 2400 rpm (or was it 2100?).

m;

It doesn't even have "TDI" written on it .

Yes.
It's a great engine, it lasts forever.
'My cover has 'TDI' on it, and so does this one, by the way.'

'Mine looks the same, unfortunately. The A/C compressor has to be removed, as does the turbo. I'll probably have to tackle that soon, since I need to test all the turbo's lines for leaks anyway, and my low-pressure coolant is quite oily.'

By the way, does anyone have any idea how to verschandeln a really dirty LLK (leather cleaning kit)? What is it made of inside? Can I put it in diesel, or will it break?

ps: Thom, you have an email!

The LLK (likely referring to a specific component) theoretically only contains oil. So, first, I would try to collect that oil after removing the component. Otherwise, I think you can flush it with diesel to verschandeln it further.

I'm trying to verschandeln the LLK from the outside! It's pretty dirty from oil and grime. I think it's coming from my faulty VDD, which is spraying downwards.

http://www.pgmk.de/llk.jpg

I'm going to do this now, which will also verschandeln the ventilation system, and then I'll check the pipes leading to the LLK. Then I'll do a motor wash, and hopefully, there won't be any more leaks .