3 minor issues - but annoying!

Hi,

This time, I'm encountering a problem that's not quite as bad.
1. The MFA (Multi-Function Display) does not display the oil temperature. Even if I've been driving for a longer time, so that the oil is above 50 degrees.

You know I have the modified Corrado. So, how does it look now? Where is the sensor located, and does a cable run from it to the control unit, or does it connect directly to the fuse box?

2. The coolant low indicator is flashing once every 60 seconds. Do you have any idea what that might be?

'Every 30 minutes, the preheating light starts to blink (for about 3 minutes) and then turns off again. It's clear that I need to read the error codes. The error code indicates an implausible signal from the brake pedal. I've already replaced the first switch (black).' No success - does anyone have any other ideas?


Thank you in advance for your help )))) - I didn't need to ask for something like that at a VAG dealer. This forum is really great!

Regards,
Arne.

For those I haven't annoyed yet: AFN is the MKB.

Hello,

Another possible cause for an implausible signal from the brake pedal switch is a faulty adjustment.

- Remove the switch.
- Fully extend the support rod.
- Press the pedal all the way down and install the switch.
- Release the pedal and press it a few times.

Thanks, Michael, I'll give it a try.

Any other ideas?

Arne.

'@Michael II - I can easily check this by looking at the measurement blocks in the VAG COM software, right? The values should be zeros, and when I brake, I should see two ones.' Shouldn't that be clear now?

It's really annoying, especially at night, when the yellow light comes on.

Arne.

No.

The "implausible signal" error occurs when the brake contact is recognized as being activated, but the brake pressure has not yet exceeded a lower threshold. That has nothing to do with the basic function of the switches.

pling!

I'll give it a try!

Just a small tip: You don't need to remove the switch to adjust it! Simply press the pedal fully down and pull both activation rods out, then let the pedal spring back. That's how you'll get it perfectly adjusted, because they will then trigger almost simultaneously! If you're still interested in knowing why you're experiencing this problem:
'Me and many of my friends have experienced this problem after upgrading/renovating!' Remember how you had to pull on the brake pedal while disassembling the pedal assembly to get the ball joint of the brake booster linkage out of the pedal!
By the way, this error can also appear if the clutch pedal switch is incorrectly adjusted! Okay, let's also post this one, using the same procedure!
And if none of that works, then check to see if you might have forgotten to connect something (this happened to a friend of mine)! I mean the simple connector with the green plug and green socket, with the black/red cable! This connects from the black brake pedal switch to the engine wiring harness! This wire goes to the engine control unit (ECU). If you forgot to connect it, the middle bit (measurement block 6, engine control) will always be set to one. That means the pedal is considered to be engaged!

Regards, MR...

Hello,

When a connector is "forgotten" (i.e., not properly connected), it will still be indicated in the error memory.

The switch is being modified to ensure that the rod can be fully and completely withdrawn.

To the best of my knowledge, the clutch switch is not adjustable. Can you help me with this?

The clutch switch can and must also be adjusted! For example, a friend had a steering wheel clamp that could be attached behind the brake or clutch pedal. This caused his clutch pedal to be pulled out too far, so that the actuation rod of the switch engaged one notch further! As a result, the switch was always triggered, which meant that the cruise control no longer worked. The clutch switch is just like the black brake pedal switch. At least, that's the case with the Golf 3, and it can be adjusted just like that one. To adjust the switches, the actuation rods do not have to be completely pulled out. It is perfectly sufficient to pull them out far enough that they engage back when the pedal is released. I don't want to come across as a know-it-all here! Sorry! But what's the point of going to the trouble of removing the switches if it's not necessary?

Regarding the oil temperature: I checked the wiring diagrams! The signal is received by the speedometer via the relay board, where a wire from multi-connector G2/Pin 1 goes directly to the sensor, which is screwed into the oil filter! At least, that's how it is in the Golf 3, but the relay boards are the same in the Corrado, Golf 2, 3, and Passat 35i anyway! And if your Corrado has been modified, then the engine probably came from a Golf 3 or a Passat!

But the flashing coolant low warning light is also a mystery to me! I assume you checked the coolant level first, although the light would probably be flashing constantly at that point!

Regards, MR...

Hello,

Volkswagen Golf III, manufactured in 1997.


Two oil pressure switches: F1 and F22.

From the switches, the wires first go to the 24-pin connector on the motor.

F1 connects to terminal T28/8, and F22 connects to terminal T28/9.


Passat, model year 1999.

Oil pressure switch F1.

Applies to combination instrument T32a/10.


Since there are definitely differences here, please specify exactly what components you used.

Hello Michael!

To correct you once again: Please don't take this as condescending!

However, pin 8 and pin 9 on the speedometer are, as you correctly stated, the oil pressure switches, not the temperature sensor! They read 0.3 bar and 1.8 bar respectively. The oil temperature sensor is connected to pin 17 of the speedometer. As mentioned, this sensor is located near the oil filter and is connected directly to multi-connector G2/pin 1 with a cable, and then goes to the speedometer via the relay panel. This is how it works on the Golf and also on the Passat 35i. The Passat model year 1999 is a newer model, which also has 2 to 3 connectors attached to the speedometer. The Passat 35i and Corrado have the same speedometers with the same connectors and pin assignments as the Golf3!

Regards, MR...

Hi Michael and Brobble,

Great! I really appreciate that you're all thinking about my problem.
I will adjust the brake pedal switches as described above later tonight.

Regarding the renovation:

Corrado G60, year of manufacture: 1989... so, nothing particularly spectacular.

Then I bought:

Seat Toledo, manufactured in 1998, with an AFN engine, produced in October 1997, with 95,000 km on the odometer. The transmission comes from a 90 horsepower Golf 3 (it has a top speed 8 km/h higher than the 110 horsepower version).

As a tachometer and speed sensor, I'm using the instrument cluster from a Passat 35i TDI.

I think we'll figure out the oil pressure sensor issue. But why the coolant low warning light flashes every 60 seconds is still completely baffling to me. Does anyone have any other ideas on this?

Regards,
Arne.

As a tachometer unit and speed sensor... I have the dashboard insert from a Passat 35i TDI.

But I'm still completely baffled as to why the coolant low warning light flashes every 60 seconds. Does anyone have any other ideas on this?


Hi Arne.
I have a 35i with approximately 184,646 km on the odometer, and at around 140,000 km, I experienced cold solder joints on the connectors to the instrument cluster (i.e., the instruments). These issues would appear intermittently, depending on whether the weather was warm or cold, and then disappear again. Check in good lighting to see if you also have 'friends' like that in the cockpit.
The coolant level warning light was frequently on for me.
Then sometimes the battery and oil wouldn't work, and there were various other issues.
Since the soldering, everything is working fine again. I'm dealing with other problems now.
I'll make a different post about that.

I'll check that out sometime.

Now, I'm at the point where the 'only' issue is that the coolant low LED flashes briefly once every 60 seconds.

I don't think this is due to cold solder joints, but who knows for sure? You're not involved in that, are you?

Arne.