Welded Rust Repair: Fixing Longitudinal Beams

Hello everyone,

The longitudinal member of my relative's Ford Escort doesn't look very good anymore .

Due to the lack of cavity sealing, it is 'leaking' from the inside to the outside.
(See image)

How does that work with welding on load-bearing parts?
What should I be aware of?
Can I simply pry out the damaged piece and replace it with a new piece of the appropriate material thickness?
Do I need to spot weld, or can I use seams?

The vehicle must last long enough until it is known again whether CO2 or particulate matter poses the greater problem .
So, even longer...

Thank you for your help.
Best regards, Jochen.

Quote:

Can I simply pry out the damaged piece and replace it with a new piece of the corresponding material thickness?

Normally, a repair shoe or replacement part would need to be attached using spot welding.

However, since the area is relatively small, I would first cut out only the damaged section at the bottom of the beam, extending up to the side radii, and reconstruct it by welding a 2mm sheet of metal "butt-joint." The sheet metal would initially remain un-welded at the side where there is corrosion. Then, I would repeat the entire process from the side, welding the bottom section, applying filler, sealing it, and finishing the job.
Make sure you don't cut out too much unnecessary information.

"On my parents' Opel Omega A, both sills were rusted through in the exact same spot. I removed the loose rust, then welded thick steel plates, about 1 cm thick, over the areas and sealed everything with body adhesive. I passed the technical inspection (TÜV) twice and had no problems for a total of 4 years! The important thing is that the rust holes are sealed. The Omega is now still running in Iran!"

Thank you very much for your help.

Okay, I'm going to start welding now.

Best regards, Jochen.