Ursachen für frühzeitigen ESD Verschleiß? | Posts 32+

nickx wrote:

I believe the engine is original, and the 70,000 km mileage seems consistent with the condition of the vehicle. It's a bit strange.

Have you had the service booklet checked? Is there a red/silver sticker in the engine compartment indicating a timing belt replacement, and does it say anything about when the timing belt was last changed? If anything is missing... The car is usually polished and thoroughly cleaned inside before being sold, which can make it appear younger and in better condition.

Otherwise, please check the BASIC SETTINGS for the injection start using VCDS.

So, I checked the plausibility of the mileage reading very carefully back then.
Service records, TÜV reports, old workshop invoices. If someone wants to tamper with the mileage, they only change one thing.

The thing about the ZR sticker is interesting. I actually made sure there wasn't one on mine back then. Otherwise, it would have failed at least 50,000 kilometers too early.

Apart from that, that's not the problem. Regardless of how much money he has or doesn't have, he has to run.

Regards,
Nick.

Just a quick note (it's been a tough week).

A vacuum is generated by a pump (located on the cylinder head, near the 6th cylinder - directly below the coolant reservoir in my Passat). This vacuum is used for control purposes (in this case, turbocharger boost control, but also for other functions like EGR), and to assist with braking. You can test this by repeatedly pressing the brake pedal with the engine off. The pedal will feel 'hard.' Then, press and hold the brake pedal and start the engine. You'll immediately notice how the pedal is assisted, meaning the braking force is amplified. If there's a problem with vacuum generation (e.g., a faulty pump) or pressure losses in the lines, the remaining vacuum may not be sufficient to supply the turbocharger pressure control system, which can lead to braking problems (insufficient boost). To make matters worse, such a connection can sometimes be more or less leaky, meaning the error doesn't always occur.

For measuring:

A pressure gauge is sufficient to check the achieved vacuum and whether it fluctuates (roughly speaking: it should be at least 550 mbar, but I need to verify that). A manual vacuum pump is better, as it allows you to directly check whether the adjustment moves smoothly and without jerks from one end to the other – and at what vacuum level (adjustment starts at 400 mbar / vacuum is 650 mbar = no supply problems or stuck adjustment).

I'm going to look up something to check with VCDS. Target values can then be compared accordingly.
Also, regarding the initial settings, I believe that the Bosch service center checked them.
Hmmmmhhh, but it's better to see for yourself.

I need to go to sleep now.

Regards,
Harry.