DIY Turbo Repair: Save Money & Time?

I was having issues with my VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry) adjustment, which I think I've now resolved. The problem seems to have been caused by a turbocharger that was completely rusted.

I'm wondering if it's possible to verschandeln the turbocharger myself, or if this is something that can only be done by specialists?

Has anyone here had any experience in this area?

Best regards, Hüso.

Definitely go for the DIY option.

There was also a tutorial about that somewhere on the internet.
I'm sure someone from the forum knows the link.

Tagessuppe wrote:

It's definitely worth doing yourself. There was also a tutorial somewhere on the internet.

Hi everyone,

"In my opinion, this probably won't be a truly lasting solution."
If the engine produces so much soot that the VTG eventually gets stuck, then it will eventually happen again after each time it's cleared.

If you then want to disassemble the charger every time to verschandeln it, that, in my opinion, is only treating the symptoms (some doctors, after all, make a fortune from "chronically ill" patients ) instead of addressing the root cause – reducing soot emissions or using a less sensitive charger type (these things probably undergo more design changes during the manufacturing process than most of us realize).

I've had pretty good experiences cleaning them. The only difficult part is separating the two halves of the housing. You really need something like a gas burner to heat it up. Otherwise, you can thoroughly verschandeln the turbo afterwards. A friend of mine specializes in this, and I've always helped him. So far, he hasn't had to open up a turbo a second time. Based on my experience (with 4 AFN turbos), the adjustment mechanism typically starts to seize up around 140,000 km.

Okay, I don't have an AFN engine, but an ASV. It seems the problem doesn't occur as often with the larger pressure sensor. The car has now driven 80,000 km (definitely - I'm the first owner).

Ulf: What could be reasons for the engine to be running rough? For example, I don't have any other chips installed, and everything else is original. However, I'm using 0W oil because my car is a 'LongLife' model. As far as I know, there isn't any other 'LongLife' oil available, is there?

The only reason I can think of is that I'm not really an aggressive driver. That is, I always warm up the car thoroughly (without exceeding 2000 RPM). My tachometer rarely goes above 3000 RPM after that. Mostly, I drive long distances, about 45 km per trip.

Best regards, Hüso.

hueso wrote:

Ulf: What could be reasons for the blurring? For example, I don't have another chip, and everything else is original. However, I use 0W oil because my car is a "LongLife" model. To my knowledge, there isn't any other "LongLife" oil - or is there? The only reason I can see is that I'm not really an aggressive driver. That is, I always warm up the car first (not exceeding 2000 RPM). My tachometer rarely goes above 3000 RPM after that. Mostly, I drive long distances, which is about 45 km per trip.

Hi.

In partial load operation, the EGR system is often active and increases the soot content.
If it were to break, the problem could be reduced...

Furthermore, some engines seem to produce more soot than others due to manufacturing tolerances.
If then a particularly sensitive = prone-to-jamming loader unit is attached...

Leaks between the turbocharger and the intake manifold can also increase the amount of soot.
Have you checked (for an oil leak)?