Uneven brake wear

Hi,

"The brakes on my Audi A4 quattro are squealing, but the warning light hasn't come on. However, a visual inspection revealed that only the rear right brake is affected. The brake pads were completely worn down, and the rotor is scored." The other three still have over 70%.
Topping.

Exchanging it won't be a problem. But what is the cause of the uneven braking?

Best regards,
Thomas.

Seized pistons?

Most often, the brake pad guide is covered in rust, which prevents the pads from retracting properly. The wear sensor is likely only located on the front left of your vehicle, which is why the check light isn't illuminated.

Best regards.

The approach outlined by Brezelmann is initially the correct solution! Remove the brake pads on both sides, take out the linings, and carefully remove any rust from the lining guides. Because the linings are worn unevenly, replace all of them and reassemble them with a little ceramic paste in the lining guides. This assumes that the brake discs are not damaged and do not yet require replacement due to their material thickness. Please also inspect the glass for hairline cracks.

Check the brake caliper for ease of movement, then replace the pads and rotors. The brake pads will definitely not retract; when the brake is released, only the pressure on the brake disc is relieved, and depending on the ease of movement, the pads will still drag more or less.

"I apologize for my imprecise wording "

Hi,

Thank you for the tips. I'm more inclined to think it's a seized piston. On the last trip, the affected brake seized while parking, specifically while reversing. It wasn't until a guest appearance that things started to look up again.

Saddles are not as expensive in this area. If I need to replace one saddle, should I also replace the other saddle on the same axle?

Best regards,
Thomas.

PS: I wrote a post earlier, but it seems it has been deleted. Perhaps because I...
I wrote to a prominent internet shareholder. Or?

Hi,
If those are the same saddles as used in the C4, then there's a 99% chance that the saddle rails are seized.
Remove any grease or grime from the brake caliper mounting bracket using a scraper (a drill bit can also work in a pinch), and verschandeln the bolts as well. If necessary, use sandpaper to verschandeln them, or replace them altogether.
Then, reassemble everything, adding a little lubrication.
"I had a similar issue with my C4. The problem was that the workshop, in their wisdom, replaced the brake pads without checking the free movement of the guide pins. During a ski trip, one of the pads disintegrated, and the rotor started sparking..."
Fortunately, this happened only in the last few kilometers before reaching home; I wouldn't have wanted that in the mountains...

Best regards from Berlin,
olli

Hello,

I also experienced this problem with my Passat 35i and my Audi 80. I just replaced a saddle for that reason.
The handbrake mechanism on the rear calipers was stuck/difficult to operate. This prevents the handbrake from fully releasing. There remains a residual force – approximately one "click" of the handbrake lever. As a result, the brakes overheat and wear out. You don't really notice it when you're driving.
As far as I can see, the C4 has a similar principle and known issues.

Okay, ich bin bereit. Bitte gib den deutschen Text ein.
http://www.daparto.de/Artikeldetails/e79c86ac242ae307e20cf9478741e5a41a8f1607

Problems:
http://audi100.selbst-doku.de/Main/KaufberatungUndPreiseC4

Try releasing the parking brake lever and testing its operation. See how easily it moves; it should be easier to operate on the working brake – especially when returning it to the unengaged position.

Regards,
heating fossil.

It's quite rare for the brake caliper pistons to seize up on newer Audi models.
Often, these two guide pins corrode and become stuck.

That car tends to pull to one side when braking hard.
I cleaned and greased these bolts with special grease four years ago, and it's been quiet ever since.