Audi A4 2.0 L TDI PPD 170 PS MKB BRD springt nicht mehr an. | Posts 16+

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As long as the PD element is in its current location, it remains sealed. Did you take it out? That was it. You will never get that sealed again.

Yes, it's leaking – it's happened several times before. The sealing rings definitely need to be replaced. The last time, I only tightened the pressure distribution plates (PDs) by about 20-30 degrees evenly, as the main bearing (ZK) and PDs were already completely worn out, and I had already sealed it twice. After that, the manure pile started running again.

Apparently, with engines that have PPDs, the issue of knocking doesn't seem to be as significant.

Hey guys,

I'm currently sitting in the garage, and I've removed all four components. As suspected, it was the PPD (positive temperature coefficient device) of the second cylinder. I've purchased the original cleaning fluid from VW Audi. The four PPDs are pulling over at this moment.

Now, an important question: Can anyone tell me what torque specifications should be used when tightening the rocker arm shaft and the PPDs themselves?

Best regards.

Tom.

Hi, I'm getting a new gasket. It should be replaced every time anyway, and it probably costs around 20 €.


For each PPD element , I had the rings made by a supplier. They are also a bit thicker/stiffer and provide a perfect seal.

PPDE screws:

Level 1: 3 NM.
Level 2: 90°
Level 3: 180°



Screws for rocker arm shaft:

Level 1: 20 NM.
Level 2: 90°

First, the two outer and middle screws. Then, the remaining two.

Thank you for the information.

The engine is running again. It was the piezo element in the second cylinder that was faulty, causing a short circuit to ground. Fortunately, the piston clearances were not worn, and everything else looked perfect. TDI-GTI 4 Motion, I take it all back, you were right .

The cleaning also worked wonders; the engine responds to the accelerator much better now. You can especially feel the difference at lower RPMs. I'm really starting to lose it with this engine. Just about 30,000 km ago, all four components were cleaned by VW, and now everything is messed up again.

Unfortunately, I only bought one set of seals, and then ended up removing all 4 components. The seals weren't damaged, so I reinstalled 3 of the components back into the same cylinder using the old seals. So far, after about 20 kilometers, everything seems to be working fine. I hope they continue to hold. It's outrageous that Audi charges around 22 euros for two rubber seals per component...

Thank you again to everyone who has helped me so much here.

If there's a need, I can add some photos to this.

Best regards, Tom.

BM wrote:

The last time I worked on a BLB (with the ZK and PDs completely worn out and already sealed twice), I only tightened the PDs to about 20-30 degrees evenly. After that, the manure pile started again.

Were the tension bolt screws tightened by 20-30 degrees?
What previous issues did he have, and what diagnostic data was reviewed?

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With engines that have PPDs, it seems that the issue of "popping out" is not as significant.

Do those have the tension clamps with 2 screws?

ulf wrote:

Then they use clamping blocks with 2 screws?

No, they don't have any clamping blocks. They have two tabs on the casing where the screws go through.
They also seal the combustion chamber using a cone, rather than a sealing ring.

P.S. On the homepage, the one on the right is a PPDE.

TDI-GTI-4-Motion wrote:

No, they don't have a tensioner. They have two tabs on the casing where the screws come through.

Oh yes, those were the things with the integrated clamping points.
Why wasn't this already implemented for magnetohydrodynamic partial differential equations?

Why wasn't it done the same way as with the 4-cylinder VEP engines or the 1.x models? PSA CR, where a spring-loaded pressure plate exerted continuous pressure on the entire injector nozzle.
It's only logical that constructions like that aren't meant to last.

ulf wrote:

BM wrote: The last time I worked on a BLB (with the ZK and PDs completely worn out and already sealed twice), I only tightened the PDs to about 20-30 degrees evenly. After that, the manure pile started again. Were the tension bolt screws tightened by 20-30 degrees? What previous issues did he have, and what diagnostic data was reviewed?

Okay, let's start from the beginning: Attention, a lot of text, little meaning.

In the year 2010.
At approximately 145,000 km, the engine would stall at traffic lights when it was fully warmed up. It would then be difficult to restart (as if there was air in the system), and it would run roughly at idle (with the idle speed control on cylinder 1 or 2 at its maximum). After some time, it worked normally again... until the next time.

Repairs: All PDS A+E units cleaned, new seals installed. PDS units from cylinders 1 and 2 were swapped to see if the issue migrates. At that time, all 4 PDS units (seats) were already worn out. The vehicle should have been sold, but it wasn't, because the owner didn't take my opinion seriously, since the vehicle was running perfectly fine again.

October 2011, at approximately 180,000 km:
The vehicle starts very poorly when cold, and sometimes runs on only 3 cylinders when cold. When warm, it runs normally. Idle speed control on cylinder 2 is at its limit again.

Another emergency repair: new seals installed on Pd2. Although the drilling and Pd are now completely...
After being worn out, the excavator started working again. We had a lengthy conversation about various things, but unfortunately, the owner is resistant to advice and doesn't want to part with the car. He also doesn't want to invest around 4000 EUR. According to Audi, there is no goodwill gesture available.

November 2011: After refueling, the car wouldn't start. Should I take another look? I thought to myself, "Just one more time." The error codes indicated a misfire in cylinder 2 and a faulty glow plug. Oh, I thought, could something have broken off and damaged the glow plug? Valve cover off, unfortunately, nothing visible.

Here's what I was thinking. Ideally, nothing at all. But. I simply adjusted the Pd2 based on feel, put the VD back on, and that was it. After several seconds of fiddling, the trash can actually came back to life. My acquaintance/friend agreed, and the vehicle should be sold.

February 2012: The phone rings - the car is difficult to start. (The temperature is around +5 degrees Celsius here). However, at -10 degrees Celsius, the car starts perfectly every time.

Audi says: Spark plug, cylinder 2, is defective .

"It's quite remarkable how well the car started this winter with only three glow plugs," I replied, sounding rather bewildered. What do you think about that?

P.S.: Sorry for the text, which is partly nonsensical. I just had to get rid of it.

RedR32 wrote:

It's only logical that such constructions are not meant to last.

Well, there are still enough places where they hold up.
My friend sold his AXR last year with 430,000 kilometers on the odometer. And there was never anything wrong with the engine.

BM wrote:

So, let's start from the beginning: Warning: a lot of text, little meaning. Bitte gib den Text an, den du übersetzt haben möchtest. P.S.: Sorry for the text, which is partly nonsensical. I just had to get rid of it.

I don't mind, it reads quite well -> thank you.

TDI-GTI-4-Motion wrote:

RedR32 wrote: It's only logical that such constructions are not meant to last. Well, there are still enough places where they do hold up. My friend sold his AXR last year with 430,000 kilometers on the odometer. And there was never anything wrong with the engine.

Sure, there are ways to modify them, and 99% of the time, nothing is actually tampered with. The other 1% is done by professionals who know what they're doing.

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Sure, there are ways to prevent it, and in 99% of cases, there's nothing actually attached to it, and in that 1% case, it's done professionally (they know what they're doing)

.

Yes, the 1.9 TDI engines are comparable to the 2.0 TDI 16V, but the 2.0 TDI 16V is the better option. A generation unlike any other.

And who would tinker with something when everything is already working fine?

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and how does the sealing work between the inlet and outlet, or towards the outside...?

there are only 2 O-rings on those things, right??

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The prechamber? It slopes downwards towards the combustion chamber via a conical shape, and that's all there is to it. The return and supply lines are connected by a central O-ring.

Is it possible to "grind" the seat towards the combustion chamber, similar to how you would with a valve? Sure, it's not like new, but somewhere there used to be pictures, and it looked quite worn down on one side...

Theoretically, yes. It's not much use if the rest is worn out (doesn't last long).
So, relatively pointless.

In my opinion: Get it fixed temporarily and then trade it in for a new Audi. They should be the ones to fix their own complicated contraptions.

Hi, is it possible to read the tightness of the hydraulic power unit (HPU) components or the pressure of the tandem pump via diagnostics? Also, which values indicate a leak?

Best regards.

Tom.