Audi A4 2.0 L TDI PPD 170 hp, engine code BRD, won't start.

Hello.

Hi,

"Last week, I encountered the following error message while the engine stalled and failed to restart:"

005399 - Power supply relay for engine control unit (J271 or similar). J363)
P1517 - 007 - electrical. Error - Intermittent.
Environmental conditions:
Error status: 00010010
Error priority: 0
Error frequency: 2
Lost Count: 40
Mileage: 0 km
Time: 0

Environmental conditions:
Speed: 0 RPM.
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 10.28 V
Temperature: -9.0°C
Binary value: 00000111
(no unit): 0.0

008518 - Fuel injector(s) supply.
P2146 - 009 - Interruption.
Environmental conditions:
Error status: 01010100
Error priority: 0
Error frequency: 6
Lost Count: 40
Mileage: 0 km
Time: 0

Environmental conditions:
Speed: 0 RPM.
Torque: 96.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 11.75 V
Temperature: 39.0°C
Binary value: 00000111
(no unit): 0.0


Readiness: Not available.

"After that, just to be on the safe side, I replaced the wiring harness of the PPDElements, and since I was already at it, I also replaced the glow plugs. As a result, the engine ran perfectly again over the weekend (approximately 500 km). This morning, the engine started briefly and then stalled. It wouldn't start again." I encountered the same error message again.




Okay, I've now removed the three relays from the control unit housing, specifically J271 or similar. J363, I have 3 relays in front of me right now:

Part number 457 is manufactured by Bosch and has the part number: 038907 281 B (9 pins), and is black in color.

Part number 8E0 951 253 (4 pins), color gray, directly from VW, part number 614.

Part number 395, directly from VW, with part number: 8Z0 951 253 (5 pins and slightly smaller than the other two). Color: black.

Could someone possibly tell me which of the three relays from the top is the J271 relay? What are J363?

The first one from Bosch is supposed to be for the glow plug system? I think it might also switch the load circuit of the MSTG, which controls the PPD (presumably referring to a specific component or system).

Does anyone happen to know which of the three relays is the one labeled J271 or J363?

Thank you for your help.

Let's start by checking the relays.
It's 90% likely to be PPDE scrap.

I actually experienced the same thing last year during a BRD (Bundesrat debate), with the exact same error message.

Can the error be deleted now, or will it reappear immediately?

If in doubt, just go to the service center and order the part.
Then you'll definitely see what needs to be updated.

P.S. You never mentioned this error code in the A4 forum.

Hi, the answer was right at the top of the post... please look carefully.

TDI-GTI-4-Motion wrote:

Let's start by looking for the issue at the relays. It's 90% likely to be PPDE scrap. I actually experienced the same thing last year during a BRD (Bundesrat debate), with the exact same error message. Can the error be deleted now, or will it reappear immediately?

Hi, please don't be mad at me, but I'm not going to swap the PPD elements just to find out that it was just a cheap relay costing 10€. I already replaced the PD wiring harness. The car also started again after a day, which I attribute more to the warmth in the garage. So, a cold solder joint in such a relay is not out of the question! I would say, start small.

No, the error cannot be cleared; it reappears immediately. My suspicion is that the engine control unit (ECU) is unable to properly control the load current for the PPD (piezo direct injection) elements. If it were a PPD issue, my Audi wouldn't have driven over 500 km this entire weekend... that's my opinion.

Best regards.

Tom.

pa-mm6 wrote:

Hi, please don't be angry with me, but I'm not going to swap the PPD elements just to find out that it was just a cheap relay for 10 €.

Don't complain, just give me information!
Because that's what I wanted to hear.

pa-mm6 wrote:

No, the error cannot be deleted; it reappears immediately.

Now, please put the 3 relays back in, and disconnect the main connector for the PPDEs.
Once the error is fixed, you'll know.

Hi, I'll try that tomorrow evening after work, hopefully it's not the problem. "If only I had another PPD element here, please don't let it be that. The wiring harness is new, so it must be a PPD element. I had a slight leak on cylinder 2."

Sure, no problem!

Hi, I couldn't wait any longer. I just came from the garage, reinstalled the relays and disconnected the wiring harness. And there you go, the problem with the relays was gone. Of course, the glow plugs were involved, but that's normal. Last week, when it first wouldn't start, I measured the PD elements, and 3 of them were showing no continuity to ground, while the one from cylinder 2 had some continuity. I suspect the problem lies there. I was lucky enough to find a PPD element on eBay last week, and thankfully it arrived on Saturday.

"I'm also curious about something else: I've had a chip tuning installed for about 5,000 kilometers. Could it be that the chip tuning is causing the piezo injectors to fail?"

The latest part number from Audi/VW is 03G 130 073 T. Can anyone tell me what has changed? I also have a 03G 130 073 M, which was also installed in my car.

You're very welcome.

Under moderate conditions (normal temperatures, not necessarily -15°C), the trekker can also start with three cylinders. With this in mind, you could try disconnecting only 1 ppd (pulse per degree) at a time from the electrical connection, and then attempt to start the motor. Before starting, make sure to put the lid back on, so that if the engine starts unexpectedly, the motor oil doesn't splash out, like it did for me .
That also meant that the defined performance parameters were no longer valid.
Or here: /viewtopic.php?t=25471&highlight=ppd+messen

RedR32 wrote:

Under moderate conditions (normal temperatures, not necessarily -15°), the trekker can also start with three cylinders. Based on this idea, you could disconnect only 1 ppd at a time from the electrical connection, and attempt to start the engine. Before starting, make sure to put the lid back on, so that if the engine starts unexpectedly, the motor oil doesn't splash out, like it did for me . That also made it clear that the agreed-upon price per day

was no longer valid.

Hi, yes, that should work. The problem, as I see it, is that the PPD unit seems to have an internal short circuit or something similar. It started working again after I changed the PPD wiring harness, and as I said, it also ran for 500 km with the "defective PPD element." If I'm lucky/unlucky, it will work again after being unplugged and will be back on all four legs .

This week, I'm just going to rework this component, and then I'll probably be a little smarter. It can't be that bad to renovate...

pa-mm6 wrote:

This week, I'm just going to rework this component, and then I'll probably be a little smarter. It can't be that bad of a renovation...

I would check it first, because the renovation is not straightforward.
If you say that it sometimes doesn't start, but then runs perfectly fine again, it shifts my suspicion away from the PDE (positive electrode displacement).

Hi, yes, that's exactly what always makes me suspicious. But if I measure all 4 elements and then have no continuity to ground on 3 of them, and then on the 4th I have 0 ohms, I suspect it's a short circuit. However, if that were the case, it shouldn't have run without problems over the weekend. Slowly but surely, I'm running out of ideas .

Measuring the voltage of each individual pin of the PDE against the enclosure can't hurt. When installing or removing it, you risk further damaging the sealing surface of the pde (pressure distribution element) in the cylinder head.
Slight variations or temperature fluctuations might then result in different values (although that would render the result unusable).

Hi, I'm getting a new set of gaskets. They should be replaced every time, and it probably costs around 20€.

I think I'm going to have to replace the PDE. "Before expanding the system, I'll simply attach a VCDS (diagnostic tool) and disconnect each component one by one until the error no longer appears. Then I'll be certain which element is defective."

What I would also be very interested to know is why the ending of the part number changed from "M" to "T" for PPDs starting in 2011. Could it be that these are more stable?

The problem isn't the sealing ring.

But more importantly, the PD elements tend to embed themselves in the head, which then destroys the sealing surface.

As long as the PD element remains in its current position, it will remain sealed.
Did you take it out? That was it. You'll never be able to seal that again.
Therefore, a new cylinder head is required.

Okay, I would only remove the PD element if you are 150% certain that it is defective.
I wouldn't take that risk for testing.

voodoo wrote:

So, I would really only remove the PD element if you are 150% sure that it is also defective. For testing, I wouldn't take that risk.

He can already rule out: relay, MSTG (Multi-Sensor Terminal Gateway), motor wiring harness. "The error goes away if the main connector is disconnected."
"The wiring harness in his head is new, and it seems to have a short circuit in one of the components."

You can still perform one final test. Remove the lid, disconnect the element with the short circuit, replace the lid, and start the device. If it runs on 3 pins, you can be sure that it's the element.

However, you can actually skip that step because if the component has a short circuit, it's just scrap metal. That's what happened to me back then. I also had continuity with a resistance of approximately 200 ohms.