Octavia 1: PD-TDI Clutch Judder/Vibration Fix

Hello,

"I've been having a problem since yesterday. The car was running perfectly fine the day before yesterday, but since yesterday, it has a noticeably rougher engine running. You can especially feel it when accelerating, as there are vibrations in the gas pedal and the gear stick."

Furthermore, there's a slight jerk when releasing the accelerator, and a harsh load change when pressing the accelerator – especially when, for example, you need to brake uphill and then press the RES button on the cruise control, and it immediately starts accelerating with a high fuel injection rate.

I noticed this yesterday after driving over a rougher dirt road, but I don't think it's related.


The following parts are new or in like-new condition:

- The engine mounts and transmission mounts are new.
- The torque strut is relatively new, with only 40,000 km on it, but the engine is solid and secure.
- The entire suspension has essentially been overhauled, meaning that components like ball joints, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, shock absorbers, strut mounts, etc., have all been replaced in the last year.
- The clutch and dual-mass flywheel were replaced approximately 20,000 km ago.
- No issues whatsoever with the engine, fuel consumption between 5.1 and 5.9 liters, flawless acceleration, etc.
- No error codes found.
- LL alignment is acceptable (-0.75; 0.25; -0.24; 0.7.


A few months ago, the right outer bearing of the A-axis was seized, which was noticeable due to significant imbalance. It was removed, cleaned, repaired, and reinstalled with a new seal at a specialized workshop. Since then, the problem has essentially disappeared.

The only thing I've noticed repeatedly is this: I park facing forward, then when I drive backward, turning the steering wheel, I hear a "clack" sound. This clacking sound, coming from somewhere in the front axle area, happens regularly. At first, I suspected a broken spring, so I replaced the strut mounts, but the problem persists.


Could all these symptoms actually be related to a completely worn-out A-arm joint? Since this part isn't readily available as an accessory for the 4x4 and costs around €180 from the original manufacturer, I'm reluctant to invest that much money "just in case."

Or do you have any other suggestions?


Greetings.

Quote:

Or do you have other approaches to solving this?

They always exist -- but I would start by checking the driveshaft joints.

If it was stuck like that before, you can imagine what condition it must be in now.

And first, check if the central screw/nut is tight.

Thanks for your statement, I have the same feeling that it's probably broken. What supports this is that everything went perfectly – I drove it 180km across the country. Maybe it just got too hot during that trip.

Could that cracking sound be due to that? Because it's just a single "crack" sound, like a spring being released.

What is the correct torque specification for the center nut? I've found everything from 180 Nm to 225 Nm, and even 80 Nm plus 90 degrees.

Yes, I was quite happy that the joint could be "revived" again for another 10,000 km... but I fear that I will really have to buy a new one.


A friend of mine told me today that I should just use the standard front-wheel drive joints, that's what they always do at the workshop, and it would definitely work on Golf IV front axles.

Do you have reliable information about that? Because the VAG accessory coupling for front-wheel drive vehicles doesn't cost less than 60€ when purchased.


EDIT: He was right, I just did some research myself... this joint has the part number 1J0498099EX and was also installed in front-wheel drive vehicles... It's strange why I couldn't find it listed in the parts catalogs for all-wheel drive vehicles in the wholesale catalogs.



It would be interesting to know if, given the restoration work that was carried out (engine mounts, etc.), a load-shifting impact could also originate from the A-shaft, especially if the outer joint has some play. It can't be completely broken, because it doesn't make a clicking sound when turning...



Translation:
"Is it possible to replace the ball joint without having to remove it from the control arm? In other words, fully turn the steering wheel, lift the car, loosen the nut, and use a punch to push the joint backward and out, then drive the joint off the shaft. I want to avoid the hassle of measuring everything."

"Both outer wheel bearings are shot. The right one, which has already been replaced once, has about 5mm of play if you hold the A-arm still and turn the brake disc. The left one has 3mm of play."

I guess I'll have to replace both sides, there's nothing else I can do. I just hope that the vibrations, jerks, and rattling will be gone after that.

If you have the waves on the table, I would swap the two inner joints of Li, right side - it's a quick fix .

I'm not replacing the entire tie rods, just the outer ball joints... but the inner ball joints are relatively new anyway, I replaced those last year.

Otherwise, I had also considered a cross-exchange, because they would then be loaded in the "opposite" way .

"How much play is considered normal in these components until they reach the wear limit? Because I think 3-5mm is already quite excessive."

"The joints have been replaced, and the problem is significantly better. However, the faulty joint likely also damaged at least one wheel bearing, so the issue isn't completely resolved. I'll be able to tell how much of the noise is coming from the wheel bearing when I put on the new summer tires... the current tires are relatively noisy."

The rest of the issues with the load-shifting system are likely due to wear and tear in the drivetrain, which I will probably just accept and deal with for the remainder of the year.

At least that awful cracking sound when parking is gone, so it's clear that the joint really took a hit.