Crankshaft Seal - Teflon/Spring

Hello.

I drive a Volvo with an AEL engine. In the Volvo, there are two variants: one that was used from 1996-1999 (MSA15.7) and one that was then used from 1999 to approximately 2006 (MSA15.).
There are differences in the injection system, including different pressures and angles. Also, I noticed that the crankshaft is slightly different. On the timing belt side, the pulley is "different."

I also need a crankshaft seal for the upcoming clutch and flywheel replacement. Apparently, it's no longer available from Volvo (supposedly also from VW/Audi) in that specific form. However, I was able to get one from VW, which should be the newer Teflon version (it comes with an expiration date and a mounting sleeve). My question is, is the Teflon version compatible with the "older" versions? Was the only change from the version with a spring to the Teflon version, or are there other differences?

I wouldn't want to end up with something that sounds inappropriate.

Thank you for your help.
Best regards, Uwe.

UPDATE: The part from VW/AUDI has a spring. It has the part number 068103171F (box) and 053103173 on the flange. I have no idea why it fails (but it will be replaced, a new one has been ordered).
I guess I'll only find out if it's compatible with my engine once I've taken the flywheel off.

Hello!

Ultimately, you'll see it when you've figured everything out.

But I know what it's about; I installed one of those modern, compact oil coolers in a T3 myself last year.
It's a really strange thing, but it's 100% sealed.

"Do some research on that; I think they might need to be installed without oil."
Whatever it was, it was definitely very strange.

Otherwise, I'm quite sure that all the older VW engines use the same type of gasket.

You're welcome. Yes, there are a few things to keep in mind - there's a mounting sleeve that can only be used once, and it needs to be installed dry, with a waiting time of 4 hours.
Luckily, I'm not under any pressure right now - I'll be disassembling the car tomorrow, and I won't be getting the parts until next week. That gives me some time to think about it.

THX
best regards, uwe

Yes, the old ones were definitely not as sensitive as the new ones.

Oil-free is a must.

Make sure the sealing lip doesn't get caught and that it sits evenly deep; then everything will be fine.

Inspect the wave stub and, if necessary, clean the area around the sealing surface, etc. 3M adhesive film is very helpful for this.