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Mitdrehende Waschdüse Heckwischer (hier Golf4) | Posts 32+

 
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haithamina
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Post29-12-2010, 19:09    Subject: Quote

Hello everyone,
"I installed the Valeo repair kit yesterday. It contains more parts than I actually needed, including the entire gearbox with the hollow shaft on which the wiper is mounted. Well, now the mechanism is like new again for just under 36 euros, and hopefully it will last until I sell the car. The first set lasted 6.5 amps."
After assembly or modification, I believe that even oiling won't help prevent corrosion if insufficient grease was used during the assembly of the inner tube to the hollow shaft at the factory.

The connection of the windshield washer hose to the motor's connection fitting is also quite daring: it's a plug connection with a plastic clamp ring that has two small tabs. It's really dollhouse-style, very cute, with a VDO marking on the clamp ring. I therefore secured the connection further with cable ties.

Removing the rear hatch trim on a 3BG is a nightmare. As a general tip: first, pop out the lower trim. When I tried to forcefully remove the lower trim at the transition to the upper trim, the upper trim also came loose on the sides, and I was then able to completely remove the lower trim, which is held in place by (quite sturdy!) clips behind the upper trim. Assembly is then easier and is better done with two people.
haithamina
3G5, 110 kW, DFGA, TGV, Variant HL 2018-
ex 3G5, 110 kW, CRLB, QFZ, Variant HL, 2015-2018, 108 Tkm
ex 3BG, 74 kW, DPF, AVB, EEN, Variant HL, 2003-2015, 271 Tkm


Translated on 08-09-2026, 19:00.
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Jan6K

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Post10-01-2011, 10:59    Subject: Quote

Hi,

I think it got to me too.

Normally, I rarely use the rear wash function, but it was still working until October. However, when I tried to use it during the first light frost, before the predicted first night with -15 degrees Celsius, to remove any potentially insufficiently frost-resistant residue (I had topped up the water several times during the summer), nothing happened. So, I assumed that something had frozen and I haven't used it since. Yesterday, after several days with temperatures above freezing, I tried it again. Nothing, but there was a smell of antifreeze in the car, and some of it was dripping from the tailgate. This morning, I removed the flaps for the headlight replacement to allow better moisture to escape from the door. Before using the search function (which immediately led me to this thread and Bertil's article), I didn't check if the nozzle rotates (I'll check that tonight) - but at least it was in the correct position when stationary.

Does anyone know if the pump has enough power to simply detach the hose if the nozzle is frozen? I'm concerned because the last function was working perfectly – the spray was going exactly where it should, and nothing was spinning, whereas now it's not working at all.

I'll probably only repair it when it's warmer – and hope that the antifreeze solution I sprayed on yesterday has evaporated sufficiently well and without causing any damage (and of course, I won't use the washing function in the meantime). Or are there other approaches that would be more effective in minimizing potential damage?

@Octavia_4x4Viewing profile: Octavia_4x4: To remove the interior trim on a GP99, is it sufficient to remove the two covers, the screws behind them, and the screws in the handle recess, and then carefully pull off the trim?

Best regards,

Jan.
1Z5 CFHF / AHB H4D


Translated on 08-09-2026, 19:06.
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Hutfahrer
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Post10-01-2011, 11:14    Subject: Quote

The harmful substances in the windshield washer fluid should almost completely evaporate. If in doubt, simply rinse the relevant cavities with water and allow them to dry.

I was also surprised by the incredible pressure that the windshield washer nozzle pump of my car can generate. I simply had a frozen rear windshield nozzle, which is integrated into the high-mounted auxiliary brake light on my vehicle. Here, the silicone hose slipped off and filled the LED light, which has a clear glass appearance, almost to the top edge with the washer fluid. icon_evil.gif I removed it, rinsed it with clear water, and reinstalled it after drying. Since I didn't have such small hose clamps, I thought it would be a good idea to secure the slipped hose with a cable tie after attaching it.

Regarding the possibly rotating washing nozzle, I'm out of my depth... icon_rolleyes.gif
Automobile Zeitzeugen: |SUZUKI Swift Sport (2008)| |Smart 450 (2002)| |Honda CB 125 F (2018)|


Translated on 08-09-2026, 19:11.
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haithamina
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Post10-01-2011, 14:31    Subject: Quote

Hi Jan,
I might have contributed to my washing machine nozzle "digitally" failing.
Last known good operation: working. Next time: "gone" and spinning. Eventually, the rust will become thick/strong enough...
Fortunately, no water had leaked into the tailgate, despite the rotating wash nozzle being in use.
Similarly, the hose didn't slip. I think it's unlikely that only the section from the wiper motor to the nozzle would freeze, while the rest of the hose remains liquid, such that the internal pressure generated by the water pump would "disconnect" the hose. More likely, the entire thing would freeze further towards the interior. In that case, ice formation at the connection between the hose and the wiper motor would probably more likely cause the connector to break.
haithamina
3G5, 110 kW, DFGA, TGV, Variant HL 2018-
ex 3G5, 110 kW, CRLB, QFZ, Variant HL, 2015-2018, 108 Tkm
ex 3BG, 74 kW, DPF, AVB, EEN, Variant HL, 2003-2015, 271 Tkm


Translated on 08-09-2026, 19:13.
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Roger
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Post10-01-2011, 17:36    Subject: Quote

Jan6K wrote:
I will probably only repair this when it's warmer - and hope that the antifreeze shower from yesterday has evaporated sufficiently well and without causing any damage (and of course, not use the washing function in the meantime). Or are there other approaches to minimize damage that would be more sensible?


"Many G IV owners have experienced issues with the tailgate lock malfunctioning. In some cases, this even led to false alarms from the alarm system. It seems that the fluid leaking from the car gradually corrodes the contacts within the lock, particularly those located at the lowest point where the fluid accumulates."

I would rather get the repair done sooner rather than later, to avoid any problems.
Gruß
Roger

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//images.spritmonitor.de/880099.png


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Jan6K

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Post10-01-2011, 19:23    Subject: Quote

Hi everyone,

Quote:

It even led to false alarms in the DWA system. The alcohol-laden liquid seems to be damaging the contacts in the housing, particularly those located at the lowest point, which are directly exposed to the liquid.


DWA? I don't have anything like that icon_smile.gif. The technology of the system is limited to the lock and the central locking motor.

And: Earlier, I ran the thing with the windshield wipers on in the work parking lot and checked the nozzle. It was pointing straight up and didn't try to move along with the wipers.

Based on Bertil's pictures and description, I can't imagine the tube breaking without twisting. Therefore, it's more likely that the hose came off or burst. That sounds like a much easier fix than Bertil's complete repair, so I can probably do it even in this weather. Let's see what Octi has to say about removing the trim from his Ibiza, but it should probably be as simple as it is in a Golf IV, with just a few screws and some pulling.

Best regards,

Jan.
1Z5 CFHF / AHB H4D


Translated on 08-09-2026, 19:17.
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Holger247
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Post12-01-2011, 18:17    Subject: Consequential Damages: Definition & Examples Quote

Dealing with the consequential damages is really not easy.

I've now had the third latch (a type of locking mechanism that also integrated the microswitch for the trunk light) fail due to water leaking from the washer fluid reservoir.

In addition, there is corrosion inside the tailgate (due to insufficient corrosion protection).

The handle doesn't like being showered from the inside either; the seal swells up.
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Holger247
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Post12-01-2011, 18:23    Subject: Quote

Regarding the hose connection, I have something else to add:

The connection to the wiper motor is really "dollhouse style."
Instead, you can connect it with a short piece of rubber or fabric hose (like the oil drain lines or breather hoses). Add a hose clamp, and it will be perfectly sealed.
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GIV - 98 - ALH
Touran 5T 2.0 TDI


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Jan6K

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Post14-01-2011, 23:46    Subject: Quote

Hello everyone,

Problem solved... it was actually NOT the problem described at the beginning of the thread.

As suspected above, only the hose came off, likely due to the pressure from the pump when the nozzle was frozen. It's not really a "dollhouse" type of attachment; it clicked back into place audibly (a plastic part had detached, but it seems very secure now). Cable ties or similar won't work because they're not elastic.

Anyway, the washing nozzle is working again.

Best regards,

Jan.
1Z5 CFHF / AHB H4D


Translated on 08-09-2026, 19:21.
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haithamina
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Post16-01-2011, 9:57    Subject: Quote

Jan6K wrote:
Cable ties or similar items won't work because they are not elastic.

Hi there.
Okay, here's the translation:

"You can also use cable ties in front of the coupling, cable ties behind the coupling, and then pull all three together."
haithamina
3G5, 110 kW, DFGA, TGV, Variant HL 2018-
ex 3G5, 110 kW, CRLB, QFZ, Variant HL, 2015-2018, 108 Tkm
ex 3BG, 74 kW, DPF, AVB, EEN, Variant HL, 2003-2015, 271 Tkm


Translated on 08-09-2026, 19:22.
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HuhuJuri



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Post30-07-2017, 21:52    Subject: Quote

Hello.

I built a different design for my G4 variant.

I bought the hose and nozzle for the Sprinter from Mercedes.
The hole through which the brass tube passes was enlarged, the hose was threaded through it, and the nozzle was mounted on the wiper arm.

It has been working perfectly for the past 5 years.


Best regards,


Translated on 08-09-2026, 19:23.
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