VW Touran Rear Brakes Overheating - Fix!

Hello.

A neighbor's 2006 Volkswagen Touran TDI with 102 horsepower is experiencing a recurring issue where the rear brakes are overheating.
After a longer drive of about 40 km, the rear rims get extremely hot (around 60-70°C), while the front rims remain cold.
The windows also show the typical signs of scorching, with a bluish discoloration and traces of burnt rust.
When you lift the car, all the wheels are free to rotate.
The pads run smoothly within the guide and are also free of obstructions.
Handbremsseile freigängig. Saddles as well.

The wheel bearing on the left side had already been replaced. However, the overheating problem persists.
It is always the same temperature on both sides.

My suspicion is that the car's rear brakes are slightly dragging.
Unfortunately, I can't prove that.

Is it possible to monitor or measure the brake pressure while driving?
The best place to apply it is directly to the rear brake calipers.

Could it also be that there's a defect in the ABS control unit causing the rear brake pads to engage?

Our friendly technician said that he was also familiar with the error message, but didn't have a solution for it either.

Perhaps someone is familiar with this problem and has a possible solution.

Best regards,
Bolzer.

Hi,

Have you checked the usual suspects?

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Best regards, Rainer.

Hello Rainer,

Thank you for the links.

I haven't checked the vehicle registration document (HBZ) yet. I will do that on Friday when I pick up the car.

I can rule out the saddles; they are fine.


I also suspect the ABS control unit.
I'm going to disconnect it today and then take it for a test drive.

I'll get back to you later.

Regards,
Bolzer.

It's due to the handbrake lever, which also engages with the brake pads of the disc brakes, so it doesn't use typical handbrake linings. This is a common problem with VW vehicles. It's necessary to replace the calipers (on both sides).

Do you really have to replace the saddles?

I also had a caliper that was prone to seizing on my Suzuki Swift MZ Sport. However, in this case, it seized in the "open" position, meaning there was little or no braking force. A plus point is that repair kits are available for this issue, both from aftermarket parts suppliers and from the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) stock. These kits include the sliding sleeves as well as all the seals, boots, and a mounting paste.

Hi there,
"The 'older' brake calipers without EPB (Electronic Parking Brake) tend to have their guide bolts seize up. This is noticeable by unevenly worn brake pads. However, they can usually be cleaned quite well and will remain functional if no new dirt gets in (check/replace dust boots). The actuation levers of the handbrake corrode at the point where they pass through to the brake piston. There used to be repair kits for this, but I don't think it's really cost-effective. Replacing the entire caliper is faster and more effective in this case."

However, this does not necessarily rule out faults in the ABS system and/or the hydraulic brake booster.

Best regards from Berlin.
olli

It seems appropriate to open, clean, and maintain these problem areas more frequently. The unfortunate thing is that hardly anyone will actually do it.

In my case, the guide pins still have replaceable sliding sleeves attached. I learned from this that these sleeves should also be considered wear parts. Otherwise, they wouldn't be sold individually or as part of a repair kit.

Even though I don't think the design of the brake calipers at VAG (Volkswagen Group) is particularly well-executed... they do function reliably and without issues for many years. If problems only start to appear after 10+ years / 200,000+ km, that's perfectly acceptable to me. After all, most vehicles only see a workshop or mechanic when there's a problem.
"On my old C4, the handbrake levers were stuck after 12 years and about 300,000 km. I think I lubricated the guide bolts around 500,000 km, and after 17 years, a brake pad wore out completely and made loud noises, which coincidentally happened right after returning from a ski trip."

If I take, for example, the saddles on my Fiats... I have to verschandeln and lubricate the sliding surfaces every 3 or 4 years.