Golf 3 Diesel 1Y: Why is it rattling?

Dear Sir or Madam!

I got myself a cheap car! A Golf 3 diesel with just under 50 kW.
Since I bought it, it's been making a rattling noise like an old horse-drawn carriage, but only when it reaches operating temperature. And occasionally, it doesn't accelerate properly, as if something is holding it back.
Is it still worth getting your hands dirty and investing euros?
Year of manufacture: 1993, Mileage: 200,000 km.
The starter motor is starting to act up, and the glow plugs would also need to be replaced.
I hope it's not another issue with the crankshaft.

Thank you in advance for your advice.

I would start by checking the valve timing.

I don't think it's the crankshaft. I recently replaced the timing belt on a 1Y engine, and it looked almost new with nearly 200,000 kilometers on it; no signs of wear or misalignment. I've never had such a good timing belt before; I've only worked on TD/TDI engines previously.

If the Golf is rusting, but otherwise in good condition, you have a durable and fuel-efficient car, so save it!

Rüdi wrote:

I would check the valve timing first.

Rüdi is right .

@MTI
Reading the data carefully has nothing to do with the crankshaft seizing itself.

In this series of vehicles, the crankshaft pulley for the timing belt often breaks.
Loose screw/bolt -> altered valve timing -> engine failure.

Just read through it.
/viewtopic.php?t=25707&highlight=killerschraube

@Trainspotter
I've already had 3 engines of the 1Y type with varying mileage, some with piston ring issues, and others with damage to the connecting rod bearings.

If the 1Y engine still uses a "paper/metal" head gasket instead of a multi-layer metal gasket, then these head gaskets and the swirl chambers, which can migrate from the cylinder head, are likely culprits.
Starting in 1994, the valve cover and head gasket were modified to prevent this.
The 1.7D and the 2.4D models had the same problem.

...and all of these causes then result in "clattering."


Regards,
Mpire

Good evening, everyone!

Thank you for your answers. The starter becomes weaker at lower temperatures . I ordered a used one, and the rattling only starts when it's out of the "white" temperature range . Otherwise, my Kitty is still in good condition regarding rust, and it doesn't run too badly for its almost 70 horsepower, and it doesn't need much maintenance! That's why I ended up here!
You might be right about your diagnosis!
I'll take a look to see what's going on, but unfortunately, I'm not a trained mechanic, just a car enthusiast who likes to tinker and fix things himself, or at least try to. I'll upload a photo of my Kitty sometime.
Have a nice evening, everyone!

Forgot to ask!
A lot can go wrong if the vertebral bodies separate or become dislodged. Or can it be easily and effectively repaired?
Thank you in advance!

trainspotter wrote:

Forgot to ask! A lot can go wrong if the vertebral bodies become detached or dislocated. Or can it be easily and effectively repaired? Thank you in advance!

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Is the work/money, or the vehicle itself, still worth it?
- Head down.
- Purchase new chambers.
- Replace the metal gasket and head bolts.

Or, alternatively, continue listening, tune out, and keep in the back of your mind that it will eventually end .

Regards,
Mpire

Oh my god!!! That's definitely going to cause some trouble!
I definitely won't be putting that engine back in, Mpire!!
It's definitely not worth it; just keep using it as long as it works. Thanks for the photos.
I'm always checking the used market.
I would like to drive a Volvo again, specifically an S or V70, preferably a diesel model.
Good evening.

@MTI
Reading the data carefully has nothing to do with the crankshaft seizing itself.

In this series of vehicles, the crankshaft pulley for the timing belt often breaks.
Loose screw/bolt -> altered valve timing -> engine failure.



Hi,
'Yes, that's what I meant; I may have expressed myself poorly. What I wanted to say is: I've replaced many timing belts on 1Y, AAZ, and TDI engines. In all cases, I replaced the timing belt pulley and the 'killer bolt.' However, I didn't observe any damage on the 1Y engines, even at around 300,000 km, while the TDIs showed signs of wear at only half that mileage.'

It doesn't necessarily have to be the panic mode with loose vortex chambers.
Knocking, rattling, or ticking sounds from a warm engine can also be caused by the hydraulic lifters (oil pressure decreases with increasing temperature), the fuel injectors (which get hot), or possibly by defective heat shields.
Ultimately, only verification can bring clarity.
Did you buy the car without a test drive, or was it just that cheap?
hg
Herbert.

Hello everyone!
Thank you for the tips, Herbert!
It was actually an unexpected mandatory purchase, as my S70 gave up the ghost at 420,000 km .
I bought the Golf as a stopgap measure, and I knew it had a rattling noise.
I also thought it might be the suspension, but I think the clattering would always be present if that were the case!
It runs smoothly and purrs like a kitten. It starts perfectly, so there are no issues.
Good afternoon.