Shortened DPF interval Ford Duratorq

Hello everyone,

I drive a Ford Ranger with a 3.2L Duratorq diesel engine, also known as the Puma engine.
"For some time now, I've been observing significantly shorter DPF regeneration cycles. In the spring, the vaporizer unit and an exhaust temperature sensor were replaced due to a stored error code." With that, it was possible to start the process again, but the intervals remained short.

The vehicle now has approximately 107,000 kilometers on the odometer. Recently, the glow plugs were replaced because one was identified as defective. The glow plugs have an afterglow function. This at least resulted in a better start and smoother running after a cold start, even though it's currently summer.

I've now reached a cleaning interval of approximately 150 km. Initially, it was between 600-800 km. Naturally, this also affects the consumption.

My understanding is that there must be an increased level of soot formation. This usually happens due to insufficient excess air, or does it?
Where else could I look? Should I check the turbo? Replace the EGR valve? Inspect the injectors? Is the automatic transmission fluid too old?

The oil change is performed every 15,000 km. I recently had an oil analysis done, but it didn't reveal any significant issues. Okay, a slightly increased fuel injection rate was likely measurable.

Attached is a photo of the spark plugs and the intake manifold.

Hi.

Quote:

An understanding is that there must be an increased amount of soot formation. This usually happens due to insufficient excess air, or?

The fundamental causes for a significantly shortened DPF regeneration interval are the same as those that prevent the DPF from regenerating altogether. Check this out:
I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello Rainer,

You're welcome. The link confirms my assumptions. But how should I proceed now without just randomly replacing parts?
If I'm interpreting the article correctly, the intake manifold should probably be checked first. So, should I remove the turbo cover and at least visually inspect it?
Check the intercooler and hoses?

"I just remembered that, in my opinion, the fuel consumption increases disproportionately from around 90 km/h. I feel a loss of power across the entire RPM range. Recently, while stuck in traffic on the highway, the car jerked when the automatic transmission was trying to keep the car moving at idle, but it went away with a slight press of the accelerator. There's a smell of exhaust fumes outside the vehicle, especially when the engine is cold." Does that potentially help with identifying the cause?

Hello,

I would first visually inspect the entire intake system for signs of damage from martens (a type of wild animal) and oil leaks. Possibly, pressure test the intercooler system.
You probably won't be able to see much from the outside when it comes to the loader. A faulty bearing is leaking oil into the exhaust system.

Quote:

While stationary, smell of exhaust fumes outside the vehicle

If you're lucky, for example, an exhaust gas recirculation pipe might be leaking, and the exhaust gases are escaping from there. The turbocharger then receives insufficient power, as it derives its energy from the exhaust gases.
Consequently, the power output is too low, the boost pressure is too low, and the engine is constantly running at its minimum speed.

Best regards, Rainer.

Good morning...

I wonder why you can't see a "spray pattern" on a spark plug.

Even if this one is defective, it will "purge" the diesel just like the others... and after a few hours, it shouldn't be in operation anymore, and the combustion should be just as hot as with the others...

Can you read the data from the injectors in a similar way to how it's done with VAG vehicles?

The above are all just my rambling thoughts...

SG
Manfred.

alevuz wrote:

I wonder why you can't see a "spray pattern" on a glow plug.

Because it was precisely this glow plug that was defective, and the soot on it obscures everything?

Has the DPF ever been checked for proper flow?
Is the differential pressure sensor functioning correctly?

Thank you for your support.
My mechanic is currently on vacation (at a private workshop), and my own initial inspection didn't reveal anything.
I haven't been able to pinpoint the source of the exhaust leak yet, I'm still working on it.
I can read the data from the injectors, but unfortunately, I can't read the data from the differential pressure sensor. What should I read out from the injectors?
"For example, I can read the power contribution per cylinder, which is also called power balance." Then, for each injector, there are 4 values, and based on my initial investigation, these likely represent learning values.

I can also read data from the EGR system, such as EGR valve position (%), EGR demand (%), and the difference between the EGR valve position and the EGR demand. Requirement and current state.

For each DPF, please provide the percentage of soot accumulation for both the open-loop and closed-loop control systems, and ideally, the differential pressure. Unfortunately, I am unable to obtain the differential pressure reading. For that, the voltage of the differential pressure sensor.

I can also read out the target pressure setting of the turbocharger control valve and the actual measured position.
Air mass and intake air temperature as well.

But I'm missing the SOLL values.

The DPF has not been removed yet. Hopefully, the differential pressure sensor was tested during the replacement of the vaporizer unit, at the very least the temperature sensors were tested, as one of them was replaced.

About a year ago, I actually had a burst turbocharger boost hose. There was a significant tear in it. I have no idea why, but Ford just said it happened.

I think I found something.
A huge hole in the LLK. I'm at least assuming that the first cooler, when viewed from the front, is the liquid cooler.
Approximately two years ago, I had a minor rear-end collision. Apparently, the expert assessor didn't notice that the plastic guide rail was broken in a way that it was rubbing against the left lower control arm. And it seems that it has now been thoroughly vetted.

And now what? I could only find one spare part in the accessories, and it's coming from England. The other LLKs seem to be tuned LLKs and cost approximately 700 euros .

Can I still drive something with this? I was planning to go to an off-road park for a meeting on Thursday.
A bandage probably won't help much.

Hi,

If the DPF interval is simply shortened, and if it were my car, I would definitely still make trips with minimal acceleration.
Don't forget that this also puts extra strain on the turbocharger, which is regulated to a certain boost pressure, even if some air is escaping.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello Rainer,

Damn, unfortunately, you can't get a replacement that quickly. Initial research indicated that the cost, including installation, was approximately 600 euros for Ford vehicles.
I've been thinking about whether it would be possible to skip cleaning the area and then apply a liquid metal adhesive. And then we'll bridge the time until the favorable LLK (likely referring to a specific product or material) arrives from England.

I also need the car every day for my commute to work, and it looks like my vacation will have to be canceled unless I find a solution tomorrow.

Greetings.
Henrik.

Hi,
You could try sealing it with a metal-containing adhesive, but regular epoxy resin should have the same effect. The downside is that this type of material tends to soften at higher temperatures. I can't say how durable it is; attempts to "repair" a cracked exhaust manifold with something like that were not sustainable.

Best regards from Berlin,
olli

Hi,

The new LLK (likely referring to a specific part or component) will arrive at Ford tomorrow morning. Vacation is saved! However, they are unfortunately so overloaded with work due to colleagues being on vacation that they cannot install it.

Okay, I'll bring it myself. As far as I can tell, there are only 4 mounting screws and two hoses.
There's nothing like water cooling.

Material cost: approximately 580 euros.

Do the hose clamps also need to be replaced on the hoses?

Greetings.
Henrik.