Mein Golf 4 ALH will nicht mehr. | Posts 16+

Hello!

Thank you very much for your help so far!

Yes, it's understandable that the pump loses pressure due to air entering it.

Was you referring to when you say "was there also something like that in the older Golf models?" I remember seeing it at work. However, there were leaks elsewhere.

I also understood the part about the screws and removing the pressure vessel.
Well, that's an M6 thread, so even in an emergency, a properly cut and deburred threaded rod will do the job.

So, here's how it looks for me.
I bought the spark plug socket at Bosch today, and the special socket should arrive by mail tomorrow.

Okay, I'll take a look and let you know.

It's strange, because based on my experience, I've never encountered a leak like that on this type of fuel injection pump.
We have a new colleague who used to be a car mechanic; he knew about that and has seen it happen before. Interestingly, he never actually fixed it.
They always only installed new or refurbished pumps.
He didn't know that you can seal it yourself.

Evening.
That about covers it in a constructive way.
If you need the nut for the triangular screw, let me know.
Best regards.

In principle, almost anything can be sealed, and the mentioned parts, along with the seals from the lid and the quantity adjuster, can be replaced while they are still installed, with appropriate care.

It's really not worth it in workshops; you have to provide a warranty on your work, and if the pump starts leaking again, like it often does, the customer will be unhappy.

Previously, items were exchanged, but today, cars, which are usually in a used condition and worth a maximum of xxx euros, are often sold.

Hi!

Okay, I understand. Of course, I know what my car is worth, but it has always reliably taken me those few kilometers to work.

The triangular nut arrived this morning via mail, and it fits perfectly.
So, I changed the gasket today.
But only that one, because I also wanted to know exactly what the cause was.

It went really smoothly, and the engine is running again without any dripping from the fuel injection pump. So, that was definitely the or at least one of the errors.


I haven't taken any risks yet, but I'll do that tomorrow.

Thank you for your support!

As the temperature outside decreases, the internal pressure in the vacuum pump increases, which can then lead to more leaks.

Hi!

Well, it could be due to the cold. My Golf usually stays in a garage, but on that one particular day, it had to be parked outside, and it was also cold that night.

At my workplace, it's the same thing – when it gets really cold at the beginning of winter.
The hand brake cylinders of the hydraulic disc brakes are failing repeatedly on the bicycles. Similarly, the gas spring dampers on the bicycle stands.

In our workshop, that was the time when we were constantly replacing water pumps in cars.

Here's what the internal HD component looks like.

http://www.uwereimann.de/poel/esp-hd.htm


"Years ago, I replaced the O-ring for the first time, with the HD part facing upwards in the vise. Last time, I wanted to see if I could do it without a vise. I also replaced the triangular screw, the cover, and the MSW seal. The car was still in preparation for its technical inspection and was on the lift, so I had plenty of time."

Meanwhile, the car belonging to the daughter of my friend has reached 400,000 km and is still running smoothly.

Thank you for the additional information.

If the seal between the pump housing and the high-pressure part ever leaks:
Okay, so only remove the high-pressure part as far as necessary to make the ring visible. And then, with the screws, or possibly... You've already written about threaded rods.
Remove the old ring.
Warm up the new ring, knead it, stretch it, force it over the high-pressure component, insert it into the groove, and then tighten the high-pressure component again.

Is this correct?
That would actually be quite simple.

Primarily, make sure everything is well-greased. I use meticulously clean, acid-free silicone grease for this. Everything being perfectly verschandeln is a given. Brake cleaner and compressed air are also useful.

You need to manipulate the pegs so that the ring can pass through.

It's important to remember: success comes from staying calm.

You're absolutely right, Steffen!
As mentioned before, meticulous cleanliness is essential; make sure everything is thoroughly cleaned beforehand.
Only extend the high-definition section as far as absolutely necessary – the springs usually have enough pre-tension that nothing will come apart.
"For some (approximately 6 vehicles, including..." Audi 80 1.6lD) was done, and then they ran until "the TÜV separated us"...