TDI AHU; Replacing water hoses, looking for tips

Hello.
My Golf 3 TDI with the AHU engine has never let me down in the last 400,000 km, and I intend to keep it that way. All the hoses and pipes are still original, and I wanted to finally get around to replacing them.

Now, I wanted to completely "renovate" the entire cooling system, ideally using original parts. Unfortunately, the water flange for part number ZK 028121132A is no longer available.
068121132A is still available, can anyone tell me if it's compatible?
Then, the flange on pump 037 121 121 A.


If there's absolutely no other option, which manufacturer of these components would you recommend? Or, if possible, to leave them looking reasonably good?

What should be done regarding the oil cooler?
Is the distance to the block a problem? Currently, it doesn't appear that there's a leak, but it might be worth investigating?



"Thank you."

Hello,

068121132A does not fit. This part is for the AAZ engine - here, the screw attachments are different.

If you can't find anything else at VW Classicparts, I would recommend FEBI or Meyle.

Best regards,

Michael.

Hello.
Thank you for the information. Unfortunately, the part number 028121132A is no longer available at classicparts either; only the 068121132A is available. That's why I asked if the latter might also be compatible.
"I noticed during the lengthwise installation, specifically for a 1Z B4 engine, that there was an aluminum flange with part number 028121133A. Would it be possible to get that one to fit?"

Thank you.

Hello,

If the engine has freeze plugs, apply a generous amount of copper paste (especially if they are already rusty) or anti-rust treatment to them. Otherwise, the metal parts will eventually corrode, and you'll suddenly lose your coolant.

Best regards, Rainer.

"Does the engine have replaceable parts?" If there is rust, Cu cream will not help anymore.
hg
Herbert.

PS: The main wear components in this engine, considering the mileage, are the hydraulic lifters, the crankshaft seals, and the camshaft.

Thanks for the tips. Is there a list or overview showing where the plugs are located?
So far, only one person has stood out to me at the WAPU.

I think the other points are unremarkable. The shaft seals would cause oil consumption, but he doesn't have any.
Hydraulic lifters: They don't rattle during cold starts, or can they also wear out under other circumstances?
Camshaft? Is it working? Or is there anything we can control about that?

bindpe wrote:

Thank you for the tips, is there a list or overview showing where the plugs are located? --> #1 So far, only one person has stood out to me at the WAPU. The other points, I think, are unremarkable. Shaft seals would cause noticeable oil consumption, but he doesn't have any. --> #2 Hydraulic lifters, during cold starts, there's no rattling, or can they also be worn out under other circumstances? --> #3 Camshaft? Is it working? Or can something be controlled there? --> #4

#1: one for each cylinder, preferably located on the exhaust side and hidden.
#2: not necessarily;
#3: The surfaces that are primarily under stress are breaking. Visible pitting is a clear indication.
#4: Material loss/grooves and hairline cracks on the valve tappet tips.

Try using the search function; this has been posted before.
hg
Herbert.

Thank you for the tips.
What are your thoughts regarding the oil cooler?
Is the distance to the block a problem?
Should I just replace it, or should I leave it alone if there's no leak?

If your car breaks down, there's a high probability that it's due to your pointless tinkering. X

Replacing dense poetry... sure, you could also dig in my garden, that would be more useful.

dieselschrauber wrote:

If your car breaks down, there's a high probability that it's due to your pointless tinkering. X Replacing dense poetry... sure, you could also dig in my garden, that would be more sensible.

It's easy to say, but it's not always that simple. Seals are less of a problem, but form-fitting hoses can be very difficult to find, and sometimes they are no longer available at all. I'm currently experiencing this problem with an older 16V engine that needs to be rebuilt.
Given that you're already doing this, and as long as the parts are still available, I would recommend replacing them directly.