Rust Removal: Tips & Tricks

I have a question for you.

I've owned a Vento for quite some time now, and it's slowly rusting away (don't laugh, it's worse than the Opels I used to have – so much for the quality of VW).

I checked on www.korrosionsschutz-depot.de and found the Bob rust sealant.
Is it any good? / Is it worth it?

In parallel, there is also the Pelox rust remover product available.

Nun bin ich ein bisschen unentschlossen was ich nehmen soll .... Pelox zerstört ja angeblich den Rost, was macht jedoch Bob ? Just "cover up"?

Has anyone here had any experience with this stuff?

"On my car, the doors are rusting (especially around the door handles), the door sills (which I probably need to replace anyway), the fenders both front and rear, and a few other minor areas."

I'm not ready to give it up yet because I'm otherwise very happy with the car (from a technical standpoint).

Thank you for your help!!

Hello,

Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with the products you mentioned, but perhaps my own experiences might be helpful.

Sandblasting is the most suitable method for treating externally visible and accessible rust.
When working independently on small projects, there are corresponding sandblasting pistols with rubber nozzles available for purchase; mine is from NORMA and is sufficient for my needs. The disadvantage is the mess created by the blasting material, but the results are unmatched.
If you don't want to use a grinder, carefully removing the rust with an angle grinder and a cutting disc ("CSD disc," sometimes referred to as a "chocolate chip" disc) is a good option; using a wire brush is generally not recommended.

Since steel sheets on vehicles are often prone to pitting corrosion, this leaves behind localized pores containing iron oxide.

I usually use Owatrol wood preservative to seal these residues, and so far it seems to be working quite reliably.
For priming surfaces that have been treated in this way (including), I often use Brantho Korrux 3in1. Applying multiple coats eliminates the need for a topcoat if appearance is not a concern. However, a disadvantage of both products is their long drying time.

If the actual source of corrosion is located entirely within the door sills beneath the rubber seal, in a cavity, a sheet metal seam, or a spot weld, then treating the cavities behind it is essential; otherwise, you can save yourself the effort from the beginning.
My recommendation is definitely grease, grease, and more grease. Wax is largely useless on already widespread rust. Typical examples include Mike Sanders anti-corrosion grease (which is difficult to apply) and Fluid Film A or NAS (different viscosities; be aware that both can damage rubber over time).
I have had very good experiences with both products; the anti-creep and rust protection is phenomenal.

Best regards,

Hi there!

Rust is best removed mechanically, and the easiest way to do this is with an angle grinder and a flap disc, ensuring complete removal. Any other method will never be 100% effective.

And if there's a hole when sanding, cut it out and insert a metal sheet, and for the doors, it's easiest to find stainless steel replacements; Golf 3 parts are still relatively inexpensive these days, and with luck, you might find one in the right color.

I used Bob's products over 30 years ago and wasn't thrilled with them.