VW Golf 3 AFN springt einfach nicht mehr an | Posts 16+

At least, the injection timing is incorrect. Remember: 2 revolutions of the crankshaft = 1 revolution of the camshaft.

I suspect the crankshaft and/or the fuel injection pump are rotated 180 degrees.
Then it won't be possible to travel, not even 1 kilometer.

Or, during the inspection, the ZW-Rad (presumably a component) happened to be in the correct position by chance, but it was loose.

Check valve timing.

See also:
Checking and adjusting the TDI 1.9l distributor injection pump

Sure, here's the translation:

"LG" translates to "Best regards" or "Sincerely" in English.

Hi, have you ever connected VCDS during the startup process and checked the values?
Injection timing (target vs. actual) and injection quantity?
Furthermore, this could help you rule out a voltage problem or a fault with relay 109.
Best regards.

Is the OT marking on the flywheel not a "0"? For the 1Z model, it's like that, and my findings online also suggest the same for the AFN.
hg
Herbert.

That's how I know it.

So, are you sure that's wrong if there's a line?
Thank you all very much for taking the time to help me with my problem.

Zero is the base...

Have you ever measured the compression? My Golf definitely sounded more strained (slower) when turning. To me, it sounds like it might not have enough compression.

If the valve timing is significantly off, you will also experience very low compression. I hope he hasn't already started [doing something].

The smoke coming from the exhaust looks to me like "cooked" diesel. It should also smell appropriate.

Josi088 wrote:

What I've also found out is that when I only turn on the ignition, the relay 109 clicks along with something else in the engine compartment

.

If the 109 is actually defective, you can immediately tell because the preheating lamp will no longer light up.

cksIT wrote:

Have you ever measured compression? My golf swing used to definitely sound more labored (slower).

I also think it sounds like it's spinning too fast.

Sennator wrote:

Josi088 wrote: What I've also found out is that when I only turn on the ignition, the relay 109 clicks along with something else in the engine compartment . If the 109 is actually defective, you can immediately tell because the preheating lamp will no longer light up. cksIT wrote: Have you ever measured compression? My golf swing used to definitely sound more labored (slower). I also think it sounds like it's spinning too fast.

However, I should mention that it could also be partially defective, which is why the engine control unit might be constantly resetting... so it's not necessarily a definitive indicator.

You can be sure if you establish communication with the ECU during the start-up attempt, and this communication is without any anomalies (including timestamps).

Hello,

Josi088 wrote:

"Injection start control 27-10, implausible signal." When I tried to start it again after these 2 months, it wouldn't start. After about 10 seconds of cranking with starting fluid, it would eventually start, but it sometimes had problems at full throttle: suddenly, white smoke, unclear changes in boost pressure, and severe jerking. I had to turn the car off and restart it.

All of that can also be caused by a faulty crankshaft sensor, especially the issue of the engine not starting with the starter. It's relatively clear when it starts up immediately when you try to start it, and the tachometer starts fluctuating around 3000 RPM.
"When the crankshaft sensor is defective, the engine control unit (ECU) uses the signal from the throttle position sensor as a substitute signal for engine speed. However, this signal becomes inaccurate at around 3000 RPM, which affects the tachometer. During cranking, the crankshaft sensor does not provide a signal, so the ECU assumes the engine is not running and therefore does not inject any fuel." While towing, the NHG (knock sensor) might still provide some signal (perhaps a small amount of fuel is still being pushed through due to the higher engine speed, as the ELAB is open), which is enough for the engine to start.
The problem with the AFN engine is that you have to remove the oil filter and its bracket in order to access the crankshaft sensor. You can use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance between the three contacts on the connector in all combinations. If the resistance is infinite in all cases, the kilowatt-hour (kWh) sensor is likely faulty.

Best regards, Uli.