1.9tdi ASZ Handschalter - leichte Leerlaufruckler | Posts 16+

Hi,
As I already mentioned -

Quote:

...Therefore, take a look at the idle speed control or the corrections for individual cylinders. Specifically, you should look for special effects related to load changes...

That would have been helpful with and without a bra, but it's no use if you can't reproduce the issue.
hg
Herbert.

Herbert, I think that if the weather gets a bit wetter, it might start shaking more.
Then I will test with and without the belt and check the idle speed control values.

The adjusted mass airflow sensor does not affect the slight jerking.

I have attached a video.

Does it make sense to replace the PD cable harness for approximately €160 with the goal of potentially eliminating the idling fluctuations?

Replacing the PD elements costs €1600 plus installation. However, the valve seat in the cylinder head remains old and is likely worn. Whether it will seal properly again remains to be seen.

Currently, I've used Liqui Moly Diesel Cleaner.
After that, I would try using the premium fuel (Ultimate) for one or two tankfuls.
The goal here is possibly... To reduce the buildup on the PD elements.

Is it possible to perform an endoscopy of the pancreatic ducts through the glow plug bore hole in a meaningful way? The goal is to clarify the condition of the PD nozzles.

Hi,
I wouldn't do anything, but rather continue driving until the problem becomes more apparent and can be identified.

- When the clutch is depressed, the jerking stops, which indicates a problem with the dual-mass flywheel (DMF). You're excluding that, aren't you?
- Under load, the alternator exhibits increased vibration; however, have you checked the alternator's freewheel?
- Have you checked the PID settings for the idle speed control? They look good.
- You are excluding LMM and AGR.

You can still check the electrical control of the PDEs, but other participants here know better how to do that. You can also use the search function.

Expensive fuel and cleaning agents are helping the manufacturer, as is the trial-and-error process of replacing parts.

hg
Herbert.

Herbert, the jerking you're experiencing is reduced when you press the clutch pedal because that action shifts the engine control unit (ECU) into a different operating mode.
There is an electric switch located on the clutch pedal for that purpose.
When this is activated, the motor responds much more aggressively and makes it easier to start.
It's not the slipping belt because the jerking also occurs without the belt.

Could it also be a carbon buildup in the intake manifold (everything is still original, and the EGR system is fully functional)?

What remains are issues with the PDEs and the wiring harness.

Even just defining the partial differential equations (PDEs) can lead to huge, unsolvable problems due to the fitting process in the ZK (presumably referring to a specific context or software). Overtaking would cost 1600 euros.

I used a cleaning agent for that reason.

I can still easily exchange the PDE wiring harness. Will it make a difference?
I am assuming a 20% success rate .
Tomorrow I'm going to the VW parts department and I'll let you know what happens.

Exchanging the PDE is no longer an option due to the costs (including the new registration certificate). The money would be better invested in a car later on.

I went to the VW dealer. My diagnosis was correct. It seems the PD elements need to be replaced. However, the engine is barely misfiring, so you can continue driving for now. Normally, around 400,000 kilometers.

Possibly, the cleaning agent in the diesel fuel might already have some effect. It's likely not the wiring harness, as the jolts are too subtle, and besides, it's always available and can be replaced without any risk.

I will now run the engine with a fuel cleaner for one or two tankfuls, followed by two or three tankfuls of Ultimate Diesel. It won't hurt, it's inexpensive, and it can help verschandeln the nozzles a bit.

Let's hope we can get another 5-8 years and 30,000 kilometers out of it.
After that, we'll continue with the battery.

Tomorrow, I will proactively replace the PD cable harness with a brand new, original one for €90. I can't really replace anything else on the engine. I hope we can continue to have a great time like this for another 5-7 years.

I noticed a significant improvement in the idle speed after having a minimally invasive cleaning of the intake manifold performed on my AVF engine.

I initially removed the AGR valve, thoroughly cleaned it, and then used a baby bottle brush to verschandeln the intake manifold as much as possible, working from that point.

It took about 2 hours, but it resulted in an improvement.

The PDE elements could certainly also be maintained from the inside with a fuel additive, but that effect is more likely to be medium-term.

Sure, here's the translation:

"VG, Jo" translates to "Best regards, Jo" or "Best, Jo" in English.

@Jo_T5
I simply replaced the AGR valve. I didn't really dare to tackle the intake manifold. I was worried that the carbon deposits might cause problems in the cylinder.