NW-Positioning Guide: THANK YOU!

Dear community of DIY enthusiasts,

With your help and your collective expertise, I think I've finally found the performance issue I've been searching for, and I can't thank you enough!

My Bora had been experiencing a significant performance issue for some time, amounting to approximately 0.8 seconds.
too much in the Ulf's drag calculator (8.2 seconds for a calculated value of 7.65, for my total weight of 1500 kg).

Thanks to your precise instructions, Ulf, I was able to measure the northwest position myself and provide the corresponding information.
After complaining to the mechanic, I got the car back with an improved neutral setting, however...
Still missing 0.5 seconds in the DZR (and still showing a significantly delayed NW position according to my latest measurement).

Yesterday, I finally decided to put my newly purchased Dremotec (Gedore) torque wrench to use.
Now, when you initially feel the NW (Northwest) long hole, the timing mark on the coupling side is already visible. And once the centering tool (6mm drill bit) is properly inserted, the mark on the coupling side will be precisely aligned with the top dead center (OT) position.

The modification (which involved temporarily switching from 205 summer tires to 195 winter tires) resulted in a 0.5-second improvement in the DZR time.
However, a test of the vehicle's speed is still pending. I hope to be able to complete it during my upcoming vacation trip to the 'German Corner' area – it always involves an unpleasant risk in Austria.

There's still some residual roughness above 3500 RPM, but subjectively, I believe the Bora performs at least as well as it did when it was new.

@Ulf
I would also like to contribute some feedback on your technical article: /viewtopic.php?t=5408&highlight=steuerzeiten+pdelemente.
who helped me immensely.

With the exception of two minor things, the article passed the ultimate 'dummy user' test (namely, me).
1) How do I interpret my near-wall (NW) setting within its possible adjustment range?
2) What is the safest way to rotate the crankshaft (without using a crankshaft pulley tool), and how far should I rotate it?

Therefore, I would like to offer two suggestions for further consideration:
1) Initially, I didn't understand which direction to rotate the NW wheel to achieve a previous or subsequent position.
If the northwest terminal screws are located in the left corner of your adjustment range (adjustment slot), then the adjustment range is...
On his late attack, they are on the right, then on his early attack.

2) Applying gentle force to the northwest-facing central screw, the northwest unit would not rotate. I also felt afraid of experiencing more 'violence.'
tightening the central screw instead of turning the adjustment knob, or that the adjustment knob slips too far away from its zero position.
Here's how I managed to do it:
Mark the current position of the clamping screw with a pencil mark.
Secure the NW (Network Wall Plate) with the drill bit in the 6mm elongated hole, with the clamping screws loosened.
Rotate the pulley while lifting the front wheel (6th gear engaged, carefully rotate the front wheel backward so that the crankshaft clamping screws can be turned forward).
The difference between the new (OT) and the previous, late NW position (OT - brand at the bottom edge of the...
(of the gear-side inspection hole) was just an idea from someone, barely the thickness of a pencil lead of slippage at the clamping screw position!

While adjusting and tightening, the OT mark on the gearbox side must be set to the 'early' position, as the correct tension of the Zylinderkopfdichtung (cylinder head gasket) is not yet achieved.
Only after tightening and running the engine can you tell, when checking the NW position again, whether you have correctly 'estimated' the setting.

Best regards.
herwig

herwigw wrote:

With your help and your collective expertise, I have finally found the performance bottleneck I've been searching for, and I cannot thank you enough.

This is indeed some encouraging feedback that motivates us to continue .

Quote:

My attempt at explanation: If the NW terminal screws are located in the left corner of your adjustment range (adjustment slot), then the adjustment range is... On his late attack, they are on the right, then on the early attack.

OK, I will add a corresponding note to the article.

Quote:

The difference between the new (OT) and the previous, late NW position (OT - mark at the bottom edge of the inspection hole on the transmission side) was just an idea of a shift - hardly the thickness of a pencil lead in the clamping screw position!

And that's where it becomes problematic, in my opinion, in terms of efficient work.
Translating such a small movement by rotating the wheel within the "play range" of the dual-mass flywheel (DMF) and transmission, and transferring it to the engine with sufficient accuracy, is likely only possible after many attempts and/or with a great deal of luck.

Therefore, I rotated my non-drive wheel to the correct position using the central bolt, which was relatively easy compared to the central bolt's tightening torque.

Only when attempting to rotate the nut and reaching the tightening torque range should one be concerned about over-tightening or loosening the screw.
Anyone who doesn't trust their adjustable wrench can, of course, use a proper wrench -> by the way, you could have also tried it before the wheel action.

I'm trying to figure out how to incorporate this into the article without making it too overwhelming.

And that's where it becomes problematic, in my opinion, in terms of efficient work.
Translating such a small movement by rotating the wheel within the 'play range' of the dual-mass flywheel (DMF) and transmission, and transferring it to the engine with sufficient accuracy, is likely only possible after many attempts and/or with a great deal of luck.

You're right, Ulf, that my method probably requires some luck, because it really took a while.
I managed to hit it on the second try, which is a good thing.


Therefore, I rotated my non-drive wheel to the correct position using the central bolt, which was relatively easy compared to the central bolt's tightening torque.

Only when attempting to rotate the nut and reaching the tightening torque range should one be concerned about over-tightening or loosening the screw.
Anyone who doesn't trust their adjustable wrench can, of course, use a proper wrench -> by the way, you could have also tried it before the wheel action.

I'm thinking about how I can incorporate this into the technical article without overloading it completely.

um... you're probably right, that would have certainly been safe .