AG4 Transmission Oil Change: 01N/01M

(or how can I prevent VAG from ripping me off during service?)


After reading various horror stories online about completely degraded ATF oil in automatic transmissions, even after only 150,000 km, I wanted to change the oil. This is because it shifts poorly and slowly, makes shifting errors, and because I believe that the oil in the transmission ages faster than in a sealed bottle. Furthermore, the manufacturer recommends storing the oil for no more than 4 years.

Finding the right oil was already difficult; VAG doesn't provide much information, other than that it's designed for long-life lubrication and that the oil is available from VAG for €20 per liter. The total cost of the change should be around €280. Furthermore, no one at my workshop has ever performed this procedure before.
They're always just changing gears. (Was that a joke? Should I have laughed at that point? Did I miss the punchline?)
There have already been enough links and discussions about this topic in this forum.
And indications of how difficult it is, how dangerous, how delicate, etc.

So: If they haven't done it before either, then they know as much about it as I do right now – which is nothing!


Equipped with two bottles of beer and a balanced mix of overconfidence and self-doubt, I drove over a pit, the trunk full of tools.
Removed the floor covering. Cleaned everything beforehand with a pressure washer.
The following scene unfolded:

Questions: Why can only 3 liters fit in when it's supposed to hold 5.5 liters? How do you get the rest out? Should I let it drain longer? (For the entire weekend!)

Because the torque converter contains most of the oil, and the planetary gear set also holds a significant amount.

'By the way, I heard something about a drain screw in the Erwin (siehe Fehlerdatenbank) system. Apparently, it's for draining fluids. However, it's for a Golf 01M / New Beetle.'

Then I would release the water, refill it, and flush the system before removing the filter.


CU Gremlin.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'Hi Gremlin,'

I would have already drained the oil from the torque converter, but after doing that, you can't access the torque converter – see the pictures!

I didn't want to completely disassemble the entire gearbox. However, I suspect that with a very thorough draining process, I might still be able to extract some more oil, but I don't know how much.

By the way, I ran the engine for a short time with the transmission disconnected, and not much extra came out. And I'm not sure if that's good for the transmission, so I immediately turned it off again.

Okay, I see. / Oh, I understand.

No, not on the alternator, but on the oil pan...

I'll check again sometime.

CU Gremlin.

Do not empty the converters!

He'll do it himself anyway.

Take a look at the Volkswagen documentary; it mentions an issue where the engine doesn't start after the vehicle has been stationary for a longer period.

CU Gremlin.

he does that automatically anyway...


Regarding Mercedes-Benz automatic transmissions, I'm accustomed to the practice that the torque converter (if it has a separate drain plug) should not be drained. Under unfavorable circumstances, the self-bleeding function may not work, and the transmission will not engage properly.
Changing the oil is good, but please do it quickly and avoid letting the transmission run completely empty.

Okay, I mentioned somewhere that there is no oil drain plug inside the transmission itself – and you can't actually drain any oil from the transmission oil pan. That screw is only for draining excess oil until it reaches the correct fill level. I thought this was fairly well known... (See the picture of the pan).

I was also told, upon inquiry, nothing other than: 'Let it drip for a long time, a very long time.' But I didn't have the time for that.

'@Julian - The machine will run even if it's completely empty, as the internal oil pressure in the AG4 will fill it again. Recommendation: Jack up the wheels, let it run for a few minutes, check the oil level, and then shift gears for the first time.'

But I only asked about that after it was over.

Hello Garth,

I've read your post and I noticed a small detail that's missing.
After the oil change, the ATF fluid should be brought up to a temperature of 80°C before any excess fluid is drained. This ensures that the oil level is correct even when the system is at operating temperature.

Otherwise, I can only confirm your positive observations.

I changed the engine oil and filter in my Golf at approximately 86,000 kilometers.
The automatic transmission is shifting smoothly again, both cold and hot. The previous issue of the transmission getting stuck between the 2nd and 3rd gear during hot summer temperatures has disappeared. After the oil change, the automatic transmission is behaving like new.
With my current mileage of 133,000 km, the first signs are already reappearing (harder shifting when the transmission oil is hot after a long drive). That's why I will change the oil and filter, including the gasket, earlier than usual in the spring. (I have already purchased the set.)

You could post a technical article here in the forum; you already have the photos.

Best regards, Georg.

Hello,

You can already use the plug in the automatic transmission's oil pan as a drain.
after removing it with an Allen key, the dipstick tube can be...
Carefully unscrew the plastic part (be careful not to overtighten!). Then you'll already see quite a bit.
I change the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in my two vehicles approximately every 30,000 miles.
Let's call it a 'minor ATF change' (1.2 - 1.8 liters)! I buy the oil from Esso!

Perhaps I should explain the whole thing again, this time with pictures, for those using TT5.

http://62.116.119.245/geri/Upload/Getriebeoelwechsel/page_01.htm

They managed to fit 6 liters in there. Does less go into the AG 4?

best regards
Manuel.