Change Clutch Yourself? DIY Guide & Tips.

After finding nothing in my search, I'm reaching out to the experts directly.

"The clutch in my AGR 3/97 is starting to fail after 216,000 km, and since I've decommissioned my A3 after an accident, I'm considering replacing the clutch myself to save money. The front components are already removed, which makes it easier to access the transmission. A reinforced clutch from ALL4TDI would cost around 300 euros."
Is this something that I, as a hobbyist, can realistically do? I certainly have enough time to undertake the replacement.

I would like to extend the fifth gear ratio at this opportunity.

What do you mean?

If you have the necessary time, space, and tools, then there's nothing stopping you. In principle, you don't need to remove the front of the car. The easiest way is to catch the engine from above, secure it to prevent it from tilting, and have the car on a lift. If only ramps are available, it's quite a feat of strength to separate the transmission from the engine. How are you planning to do it? With a lift? Well, if the car isn't needed right now, I would do it myself.

If you also have a digital camera available, I would suggest taking some pictures before disassembling anything. That way, you can always refer back to them to see where each part goes. I would also label the cables and connectors with Tesa tape and put the screws in separate containers; this will greatly simplify the reassembly process.
Ultimately, you can only answer that question yourself.

I would also recommend using a lift. And definitely have a strong helper on hand when removing or installing the transmission. I once changed the clutch on a Polo II, and the transmission was already quite heavy, especially when you have to move it back and forth to find the right position.

Hello,

I would like to know how much it would cost to have a clutch replaced on a VW.

Does anyone happen to know the price?

Regards,
DJ.

Okay! If you think it's possible, then I guess I'll give it a try.

I thought I could lift the car up completely on one side using the jack, so that you could easily get underneath it.

Was muss ich denn alles Abmontieren um das Getriebe abzubekommen. Driveshaft?
So, I need to support the engine, is that correct?

Are there any other areas where things could become critical, or where I might need special tools, such as a centering mandrel for aligning the clutch?

Thank you very much for all the answers.

Jack

Forget about it.

1. Extremely dangerous; if the tractor slips, you could be crushed (not just unhappy, but DEAD).
And you really have to put in a good amount of effort there.

2. And that brings me to the next point: fundamentally, you lack power.
I just managed to get about 20 Nm of torque on the oil pan - no problem doing it underneath the car.

3. The working height may not be sufficient if, for example, you need to loosen the drive shafts using large wrenches.


It might be possible to proceed without a stage, but if not, we'll use a platform. In any case, we'll definitely place the cart on blocks.

m;

Hello,

'It doesn't quite fit the topic, but I'll ask anyway:'
I suspect my clutch is slipping. It's noticeable in 5th gear when accelerating from low RPM. It feels like the clutch is 'slipping in waves,' only engaging every half rotation. When you release the gas pedal, everything goes back to normal.

Here's what I specifically want to know: How long can the car still be driven (days, weeks, months)? Does anyone have experience with this? I mostly drive on the highway and therefore shift gears very little.


Greetings.
wollif

Volkswagen Golf III 1Z, manufactured in 1994, with 280,000 km mileage.

wollif wrote:

Here's what I specifically want to know: How long can the car still be driven (days, weeks, months)? Does anyone have experience with this? I mostly drive on the highway and therefore shift gears very little.

After a lot of starting and stopping, the clutch can sometimes start to slip, especially if it was already worn. My clutch started slipping about 2 years ago, after a period of city driving. After 300 kilometers on the highway, the problem disappeared.
But I think it will probably be due soon, considering the mileage on your car.

Quote:

Was muss ich denn alles Abmontieren um das Getriebe abzubekommen. Driveshaft? So, I need to support the engine, is that correct?

Okay, so I've only done this twice, on a Golf Mk2, but basically, it's not reinventing the wheel. Especially since you also have a transversely mounted engine. Remove the left driveshaft, loosen the right one at the transmission and let it hang, then remove the engine, support it, and move it to the right. Loosen the transmission and remove it from below. I had a lift, but no engine hoist. But with this car, the paint wasn't really a big issue, so you could improvise with some household tools.


Only the starter motor is connected by the wire, while the engine is connected by the thick cable.
Regarding the centering process, I used the caliper to adjust it until the carrier disc was centered. It worked. The removal of the pressure plate was a bit tricky, as it wasn't held in place with hex bolts. However, a slightly modified ring wrench also worked.

gamz on the edge: The clutch in my Audi, with almost 300,000 km on the clock, still hadn't given me any problems. But it was also a car primarily used for long-distance driving...

Thank you, dear Mahk.
You've helped me a lot.
Now, I'm going to dare to .

With the Golf II, it wasn't a problem to change the clutch, especially with the gasoline engine. There was plenty of space to work, but it was a bit tighter with the diesel engine.
The cables and connectors were also quite manageable in the II model.
@SoupOfTheDay
As Dieselmartin already mentioned, the car should be properly supported with jack stands and not just resting on a jack.
Make sure to properly center the clutch disc, and when tightening the pressure plate, work evenly to avoid having to do the job all over again. I used the handle of an old ratchet as a centering tool on my II. I sanded the end down a bit (so it fit into the flywheel) and the handle went straight through the clutch, and it worked quite well.

wutz wrote:

@SoupOfTheDay As Dieselmartin already mentioned, the car should be properly supported with jack stands and not just resting on a jack.

Alright! When I'm working under a raised car, I only do it with at least two jack stands and a support stand shaped like a tree trunk.

Without a lift, I would advise against it, especially if you've never done it before.
Forget about doing that with a few jacks and some logs (it's very dangerous).
If you want to do it yourself, please find a rental workshop; that's definitely safer.

thom wrote:

If you want to do it yourself, please find a rental workshop, that is definitely safer.

I would love to, but my car isn't working right at the moment.
That's precisely why I wanted to use this forced break as an opportunity to make a change.

Best regards.

With a transverse engine, everything is easily accessible even without a lift. While a log might seem secure, "threading" the gearbox onto the engine certainly won't be easier if the car is jacked up unevenly and at an angle. On the other hand, you don't need a huge amount of space underneath. However, it's not ideal to do it alone, especially if, as I suspect (otherwise the question wouldn't be here), you're not very experienced.