Replace Brake Lines: Cost & Installation Guide

Hello,

During an inspection of the underside of my vehicle, I discovered that the rigid brake lines show significant signs of corrosion.
To avoid any trouble, I would like to replace them. As far as I know, these pipes are only available in standard lengths.
Has anyone here ever replaced the brake lines? Is it very complicated? I imagine routing the lines around the corners and edges on the underside of the car is not very easy.

Hi,
With a bit of bad luck, you might have to detach parts like the exhaust. Otherwise, remove the old tubing and have a workshop bend and crimp it to this pattern. It's easier to maneuver and thread the tubing on a lift.

Hi.

It's not inherently a problem, but you should know what you're doing.

You'll need a handful of crimp rings (the old ones might still work), a small pipe cutter, and a decent crimping tool.

Then it's best to remove an old line (seal the connection with a R 1/8" plug) and try crimping it as a test.

The pipes can be bent directly on-site by hand.

I've never had to remove an exhaust system before (I've only ever removed the rear differential from a Syncro).

Best regards, Rüdi.

Hello,

Thank you for the answers. My dealer is willing to have new pipes custom-made according to the old patterns.
I would actually prefer to do it myself. I'm going to look into getting a beading tool.

I had my friend get me the AKTE specifications with the dimensions, and then I went to a parts dealer and got the exact length I needed (including the locking nuts and crimping).

I bent them myself... I simply removed the old cable, installed the new one, and then bent it into shape.
It works very well with minimal effort.

Hi,

Even though nobody might want to hear this right now:
Stop messing with the brakes!
You are not only a danger to yourselves, but also to others.
Have you ever considered that pipes shouldn't be bent "freehand," but rather with a bending device to avoid excessively reducing the cross-section?
I might get itchy just thinking about how many rolling time bombs are out there around me.
Even though the quality of work from some workshops regarding safety-critical parts is more than just unsatisfactory, at least the young people are insured against the mistakes they make.

Sorry, I just needed to vent.

Olli.

'If you bend the pipes yourself, there's a risk that you might create a kink that has a smaller radius and that will break down after a few bumps or weeks. A friend of mine once replaced the pipes on his BMW – he bought them originally and pre-bent, and they were actually quite expensive. So, I think it's probably not worth taking the risk, considering the cost.'
Best regards,
Martin.
Enthusiastic AEL driver... what chip are you talking about?!

@ Olli

I think this isn't the right approach. Everyone should know their own limits and what they are capable of.

Never forget: people work in the workshop, not robots.

Certainly, many people here in the forum have learned a profession specifically related to automobiles, so what distinguishes them from the employees of a workshop (assuming that a large proportion of those who have learned a trade also work in a workshop)?

Answer: Nothing!

I can personally claim to be able to perform any work on a vehicle, from all types of accident repairs (including frame welding, etc.) to replacing or installing accessories, and even completely disassembling an engine, in a proper and professional manner.

'I avoid things I don't fully understand and take the time to learn about them first.'

On the other hand, you're right... Right now, I'm in the middle of my studies to become a mechanical engineer, and I'm doing an internship (ugh) at DEKRA. So, the kinds of cars you see there... the modifications that some 18-year-old 'lower-faster-wider' enthusiasts make are often completely insane. Those people should have their cars taken off the road!

Sure, here are a couple of examples:

- Someone came with GFK (fiberglass-reinforced plastic) rods to install, but we only touched them with two fingers, and they completely came off... they were just inserted.

- Someone comes along and says they're not sure if they'll pass the vehicle inspection because their brakes make a strange noise, the car pulls to one side, and the pedal vibrates oddly. AND: They claim to have technical knowledge, they've already checked everything, and so on... The solution to the problem: The brake disc on the rear right side is completely missing! It was worn down so much that it probably burst at some point. All that was left was what was wedged between the rim and the wheel hub.

Why do you want to replace the entire cable?

To keep it simple: You can...
Yes, only the section of the cable from the faulty point.
replace. Over-locking nuts and the flaring tool.
You'll need it anyway. Remove the line.
Approximately 10-15 cm in front of the damaged area, replace [the component/part].
You'll need an adapter for the rest of it.
You plant more of them, but you have significantly fewer in total.
Effort, similar to that required when replacing the entire cable.