Car won't start? Get help now!

Hello,
This morning, my new car wouldn't start. I thought it might be the glow plugs, so I replaced them, and it seemed to be working fine. However, about 2 hours ago, I had to call someone for help. A young man from VW came and diagnosed the problem, and he told me that the car needs to be taken to the workshop.
Error (printed):

17978-Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer P1570-35-10--- Intermittent!

What exactly does this error mean?
The car won't start at all!
I found the following information using the search function:

Error code: 17978.
Engine control unit locked.

Possible causes:
Unauthorized start attempt.
Key.
Attempted manipulation.
Short circuit.
Communication line.
incorrect encoding.
Error in the system for...
Anti-theft system.
Immobilizer control unit defective/missing.
Engine control unit replaced and not adapted to the immobilizer system.

Possible impacts:
The engine starts but immediately shuts off.

For me, the problem is that it doesn't start at all; the starter motor is spinning like crazy!
I also tried the other keys, but to no avail. The glow plug is still working!
What else could it be due to?

Should I have them pick up the car from the workshop? The young man told me that the problem isn't clear, and that the troubleshooting would take 1-2 business days!

Kleinerbaby wrote:

This morning, my new car wouldn't start

.
While I probably can't help you much, if you don't even tell us what kind of car you have, you're certainly not going to get very detailed answers from others...

17978-Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer P1570-35-10--- Intermittent !

It simply means that the immobilizer prevents the engine from starting.

Hey, you should always specify the type of vehicle. Was it a Ford Galaxy, or am I mistaken?

The ignition switch's contact plate is likely the source of the problem.

OOPS, the beginning is a bit difficult, please don't take it badly: it's a Ford Galaxy TDI with 90 horsepower.

Immobilizer prevents engine start! Why? What's the cause? And what about the reading light?

Can I fix this problem myself, or does it require a professional?
'How much does a reading nook/reading pit cost?'

It depends. In my Passat 3BG, it only worked when connected to the ignition cylinder. Remove the trim around the ignition switch, and you'll see a black ring around your ignition cylinder. That's the reading coil. There's a two-wire cable connected to it. I bet either the connector is loose or the contacts are corroded. If that's not the problem, then the transponder in the key might be the issue. What kind of keys do you have, interior or exterior keys? Sometimes, the keys are sensitive to being dropped and can then stop working. Try searching online. I had a similar problem last year in January and started a thread about it.

HELLO AND BEST REGARDS TO EVERYONE!

Okay, so these are the same keys as for the Sharan. I think these are inner tie rod end keys!

I'm seeing the same error code on my 1Z today:

Code:

Steuergeräte Teilenummer  : 028 906 021 AF Komponente und/od. Version: 1,9l R4 EDC SG      D80         Software Kodierung: 00000              Werkstattcode: WSC 00000 1 Fehler gefunden: 17978 - Motorsteuergerät gesperrt         P1570 - 35-10 - - - Sporadisch

The car started as usual, idled for a moment, and then immediately stalled. This happened several times in a row. After the fifth attempt, it finally started and ran.
This has happened 2 or 3 times before, but the engine started immediately on the second attempt. Today, it took longer to start.
eigenartig dran ist, dass dies scheinbar immer bei "halbwarmen" Motor auftritt. Der Fehler war bisher nie wenn der Motor richtig warm oder wenn er richtig kalt war. Immer nur wenn das Auto ein Weilchen gestanden hatte und somit schon etwas abgekühlt war. Coincidence?

Should we take action or just wait until something completely breaks down? Perhaps we should have a spare key on hand and test it.

VAG likely often dimensioned the length of the reading coil somewhat conservatively.

Particularly in vehicles with adjustable steering wheels, the cable may become too tightly stretched, potentially causing (at least) one wire to break, which can then produce the most surprising erratic behavior. I would check that. It's also possible that a connector is only partially connected.

Fortunately, the ignition key code is not constantly checked; once the engine starts, it stays running even if the coil wire becomes disconnected during the drive.

I also constantly had that problem with my 1Z.

I got a free engine control unit (ECU) from a 1Z model without an immobilizer, and then the problems were solved. Maybe not the most elegant solution, but it works...

Either like that, or a lot of tedious troubleshooting.

That's not an option for me. If I don't have WFS (presumably a type of insurance or coverage), I'll have to pay more for insurance -> no.
I will keep Ufls Tip in mind and will check it out over the weekend. It's just annoying to troubleshoot problems when they only occur sporadically. (It hasn't happened for the past few days, despite multiple trips and frequent starts.)

x world one wrote:

I will keep Ufls Tip in mind and will check it out on the weekend.

Another possibility: I believe there are relays located in the G3-WFS.
I once read about a cold solder joint on a relay: someone held a soldering iron against it, and the problem was solved.
Unfortunately, cold solder joints, which appear as tiny cracks around the solder pin, are difficult to detect with the naked eye. Therefore, it's best to re-solder everything as a preventative measure.

I recently completely refurbished a 109 model, including replacing the circuit board, and since then, the car has been running "noticeably" well for a long time without any problems .