Wheel bearing tool Hazet 4930, no strut removal required?

"Can anyone share their experiences with this tool?"

Or should one perhaps stick with the method of removing the shock absorber and using the good old press?

I got the (cheaper) one from Nordec. It's worth it.

Hello,

Can this tool also be used to remove the old bearing from the wheel hub and to press the new bearing back onto the hub? Thank you in advance.

Hi,

haehnlein wrote:

Hello, Can this tool also be used to remove the old bearing from the wheel hub and to press the new bearing back onto the hub? Thank you in advance.

"I don't think you can remove the inner ring without using a tool. However, with a flexible tool (like a rotary tool) and some skill, patience, and care, you can usually remove the inner ring quite well. Just be careful not to damage the hub with the tool." Most of the time, however, the inner ring breaks before it's completely cut through; a tap with a small chisel can help with this.
Otherwise, just get a decent puller, but I don't think it's worth it for personal use.

Best regards, Rainer.

Quote:

Or should one perhaps stick with the method involving removing the shock absorber and using the good old press??

In my opinion, this is relative. For example, with the Golf 3, I don't think the tool is worth it because, once the wheel bearing is exposed (with the lower ball joint detached, the brake disc and caliper removed, and the driveshaft disconnected), the shock absorber is only still attached to the strut tower and the tie rod. For vehicles with a four-wheel drive system (like the Passat and A4, A6), it's a different story.

BM wrote:

Quote: Or should one perhaps stick with the method involving removing the shock absorber and using the good old press?? In my opinion, this is relative. For example, with the Golf 3, I don't think the tool is worth it because, once the wheel bearing is exposed (with the lower ball joint detached, the brake disc and caliper removed, and the driveshaft disconnected), the shock absorber is only still attached to the strut tower and the tie rod. With a 4-wheel steering system (found in models like the Passat and A4, A6), it looks quite different.

I can only agree with that. With a Golf or Passat 35i, I can usually remove the shock absorber in 10 minutes.

I don't need a press, just a 10kg hammer, various pieces of pipe, a bench vise for pressing, a heat gun for warming, and cooling spray for cooling; then the bearings will almost fall in by themselves.


Best regards, Rüdi.

Rüdi wrote:

I can only agree with that; with a Golf or Passat 35i, I can have the shock absorber out in 10 minutes.

Hi Rüdi,

Okay, that's happening quickly . What do you do when the driveshaft is stuck? I've already thought about loosening the central screw of the driveshaft and then driving it for a short distance so that the part comes loose in the bearing. My storage unit definitely needs to be cleared out now, and I'm going to do it using the specialized tool from Nordec.

Quote:

What do you do when the driveshaft is stuck?

What does that have to do with the special tool?

If it gets stuck, you can remove the shock absorber with the driveshaft and then carefully press it out. This will take about 10-15 minutes longer, or you can get a proper puller and remove the shock absorber while it's still installed. The only question is whether it makes sense.

BM wrote:

What does that have to do with the special tool?

Hello,

Okay, the driveshaft needs to come out of the bearing so I can position the tool, right? Or am I missing something?

BM wrote:

If it gets stuck, you simply remove the shock absorber with the driveshaft and then carefully press it out.

That's exactly what I want to avoid, which is why I'm buying this specialized tool .

Quote:

That's exactly what I want to avoid, which is why I'm buying this specialized tool.

To my knowledge, the kit does not include a puller for stuck drive shafts, but only the items needed for the simple installation and removal of the wheel bearing/hub, correct? Therefore, the problem of a potentially stuck drive shaft would still remain.

If you don't have a reliable press, then using a puller makes sense. Relying solely on a hairdryer and cold spray without the proper equipment is also quite risky. If the installation gets stuck for any reason, the temperatures will equalize very quickly, and you'll likely find yourself using a lot of colorful language.

Hello,

Okay, the wheel bearing replacement is almost complete. The tool from Nordec has worked reliably. However, at the beginning, I thought that removing the wheel hub with the two threaded bolts was a joke. It worked perfectly fine, though.

The only problem remaining is getting the bottom bracket ring off the wheel hub properly. How do workshops do it? Using a grinder to smooth the ring off isn't exactly the most elegant method, as it's hard to do without scratching the hub a little (at least, that's how I did it).

The separation of the shock absorber from the control arm is also problematic. In my first attempt, I removed the connecting bolt between the control arm and the shock absorber. On my older Passat (built in 1985), it was possible to separate the control arm from the shock absorber with a firm kick (while slightly lifting the shock absorber with a jack). However, this was not possible on my 1995 model. The ball joint must be disconnected from the control arm. Fortunately, the adjustment range for the camber angle on this model has been increased, so (hopefully) no wheel alignment will be necessary.

At this opportunity, I would still like to replace the ball joint at the same time. Does anyone have an idea or a trick for how to easily remove this part from the shock absorber? The top screw has been completely removed.

Thank you very much!

For the inner ring, there are special pullers available. However, you can also use a pointed chisel (e.g., a bodywork chisel) to separate the ring enough so that a regular puller can grip it, or you can continue using a thicker chisel.

haehnlein wrote:

Does anyone have an idea or a trick for easily removing that part from the shock absorber? The top screw has been completely removed.

You can use a sturdy metal rod and a hammer to push the "stud" of the wheel bearing/kingpin, which protrudes into the shock absorber, from the top down (there is an opening there). Theoretically, you could then skip the separation of the connection between the wheel bearing and the control arm, but this is not without risk, as it could potentially alter the axle geometry. The wheel bearing, which is attached to the control arm with three screws and a washer, can be "moved" by about 2-3 mm. It will be difficult to achieve the original installation position again. When removing the axle joint, the shock absorber should be slightly lifted with a jack to reduce the "back pressure" from the control arm.

I am constantly amazed by the prices of spare parts. The caliper mounting bolts (4 pieces) cost 9 euros at the dealership, while the ball joint with screws and nut plate costs just 10 euros at a parts store ...

Finally, I can now confirm that the Nordec tool reliably performs its function!