Performance Loss in AAT

Hello everyone...

...yet another new problem...

For example, if I'm stopped at a traffic light, the engine is running, I drive away, and then the engine doesn't rev properly...it behaves like it doesn't have a turbocharger...I then press the clutch, let the engine idle, and then re-engage the clutch, and it starts working normally again...

Even if, for example, you're driving on the highway at a speed of 100 km/h and accelerate, then you don't shift gears, but instead press the clutch again, return to idle, and then engage the clutch again...everything is fine!


What is this?

Thank you in advance.

Hi,

If you read the fault codes while waiting for the fault to occur, the engine control unit should tell you the reason.
I'm not sure how the pedals work with your motor and car, so I'll check them too.

Hello, Rainer

hello

Okay, I've taken a quick look around, and lo and behold, where the AGR valve is flanged into the intake manifold, there's soot...and specifically, the AGR valve has a small hole, presumably for pressure equalization under the membrane. If this membrane is now only partially functioning, then the boost pressure could directly go into the exhaust.

Take a look at it for me.

Could it be?

thank you

I would also bet on the pedal switches. The AFN I have installed in my VW bus doesn't need these switches, and when I tried it the first time, I left all of them open. This resulted in the engine not taking any gas at all when I first pressed the gas (not when I was parking, but only when accelerating), but instead just running at idle. Once I let the gas go and pressed it again -> it worked. Now both switches are closed (wires connected to ground), and the wire for the brake light is connected to ground, and everything is working perfectly.

But if you only have a power loss (e.g., the engine doesn't rev up willingly and doesn't pull), then measure the charging pressure.

If the AGR valve is already the focus, try shutting it off first (disconnect the hose and seal it to prevent dirt from entering the pneumatic converter). If the problem still occurs sporadically (i.e., not always), then it's not the AGR valve. If it's mechanically damaged or leaking, you wouldn't have full boost pressure - unless it occasionally gets stuck in the open position.

(Use a hose to disconnect and seal it to prevent dirt from entering the pneumatic transducer)

That's completely useless if it's stuck open;

If it were mechanically damaged or leaking, then you wouldn't have had the full pressure

Keyword: negative drain - Google is your friend

If it were my car, I would definitely disable the AGR anyway. Doesn't offer any advantages, and is an additional source of errors

... and if I were a mechanic, I would advise you to leave it as is...

If I'm not mistaken, he only experiences this problem sometimes. So, close the AGR valve, then disconnect the hose and see if the problem reappears. If the valve were always open, the problem would occur constantly, not just sometimes.

Hello everyone!!

First of all, thank you for your answers...

While I was browsing, I discovered that the "problem" I'm facing is not a new issue for the 100AATs.

Anyway, I installed an intermediate plate between the AGR and the intake manifold, so it's sealed, and lo and behold... problem solved... I thought.
Get up early (cool) and go to work, everything is fine...
I then left work early (in the afternoon). Car overheating) Problem reappears....
today morning (cool) to work.-...Problem does not occur.

is this problem temperature-dependent?
Does the control unit have a connection where it can detect pressure levels, or does it only use the sensor in the spray nozzle?

@DJ Ninja I have a switch on the clutch, and another on the brake... Brake, of course... What is the switch on the clutch for?

can the catalyst be broken? broken before the exit, which sometimes closes, and falls back into the container when the gas is withdrawn?


I'll also get the error code read out tomorrow, I hope I can trigger the error...

.....I've managed to do it a few times, by keeping the engine around 2000 RPM (just letting it idle), and then giving it gas, but it doesn't respond...so, the problem mainly occurs around 2000 RPM...

Hoping for numerous responses

... and if I were a mechanic, I would advise you to leave it as is...


Oh really? Maybe at your place... Today, I went with our AAZ (G3) for the §57a inspection (that's what we call it here) with a friend who recommended a garage. The emissions test looked like the hose of the testing device was lying next to the exhaust (not connected), and the inspector slowly pressed the accelerator pedal (I had already moved away from the exhaust because I didn't want to get into trouble), until the engine reached 4600 1/min according to the testing device, and then they repeated it. Rust on the brake lines, leaking ESP, and a newly installed LLK (presumably a catalytic converter), as well as windshield wipers and a washing system, didn't seem to matter. If interested, please contact me privately

If I'm not mistaken, he only experiences this problem sometimes. So, close the AGR valve, disconnect the hose, and see if the problem reappears.

And what if it's currently stuck in a jammed position?! With a metal insert in the exhaust path, you can completely rule out the AGR

I'll also get the error code read out tomorrow, I hope I can trigger the error...


What is the purpose of provoking? It should also be included, and it will only be deleted after 50 engine starts if it occurs sporadically...

Thank you very much!!

Steel is inside, so it's sealed.

Does anyone perhaps still have the answers to my other questions from the previous post?

Thank you.

Hihi, ich mag das auch. Naja, die DEKRA hat mir auch meinen Sportluftfilter für meinen TDI-Bus (AFN) eintragen lassen. Dieses Teil macht bei 50 km/h lauter als mein letztes Auto... einen Golf 2 GTI 16V mit Abgaskrümmer usw... Aber ich wollte beide Batterien im Bus behalten, deshalb habe ich den originalen TDI-Luftfilter nicht eingebaut.

hmm, if it's not the AGR, then the only other option left is the load pressure regulation...
So, connect the VAG-COM and check the N75-to-fuel ratio when the boost pressure is reached. The fuel should be getting through.

I've experienced this with the N75 before... back then, it was like this: when accelerating at full throttle, there was a specific level of load where "someone was on the brakes".

Back then, the cause was a slightly oxidized contact on the MAP sensor....

Your MSG is switching to temporary emergency mode because it's not receiving satisfactory sensor signals or actuator positions.
Try it out.
'Simply release the gas, and don't press the clutch; gradually increase the gas again'
'Normally, the full power is also restored.'
Please read diagnostic trouble codes, probably error 550 difference rule start?...
that means, your fuel injection pump is in the wrong place...
Good luck!


Hello everyone...

...yet another new problem...

For example, if I'm stopped at a traffic light, the engine is running, I drive away, and then the engine doesn't rev properly...it behaves like it doesn't have a turbocharger...I then press the clutch, let the engine idle, and then re-engage the clutch, and it starts working normally again...

Even if, for example, you're driving on the highway at a speed of 100 km/h and accelerate, then you don't shift gears, but instead press the clutch again, return to idle, and then engage the clutch again...everything is fine!


What is this?

Thank you in advance

[quote="Frank__"]Your MSG is switching to temporary emergency mode because it's receiving some sensor signals or control signals that it doesn't like.
Try it out.
"Simply release the gas, and don't press the clutch; gradually increase the gas again"
"Normally, the full power is also restored."
Please read diagnostic trouble codes, probably error 550 difference rule start?...
that means, your fuel injection pump is in the wrong place...
Good luck!


Hello Frank!!

I tried that too. You need to let the engine idle, then it starts again...

What surprises me is that the problem doesn't occur at all sometimes, but then again, it can happen with every kilometer...

You are also right, I had error 550, which has been disabled, but I have error 560 regarding the exhaust gas recirculation system, which I cannot delete, and error 00519 regarding the load pressure sensor, which I can delete, but it keeps coming back... I have also replaced the sensor with a new one, but it has not improved...

Maybe the MSG himself has something to do with it...

Best regards

I don't think the MSG is defective.

you must get rid of the error messages...
Get the measurement values/resistance readings of the actuators/sensors to check them.

Okay, so: 'Also, das AGR-Ventil wird durch Unterdruck angesaugt. Bitte den Schlauch verfolgen, er führt zu einem Magnetventil. Funktioniert dieses Magnetventil?' Pipes sealed?
Speaking of vacuum, is your vacuum system sealed properly? Do you have enough vacuum pressure? Is your braking assist system working well enough?

Ladedruck sensor, do you have boost?, what values does the sensor output?, do you have VAG-COM?, can you use it to see what value I have at idle/full load?

The error messages must be removed!

Greetings
F



Try it out.
'Simply release the gas, and don't press the clutch; gradually increase the gas again'
'Normally, the full power is also restored.'
Please read diagnostic trouble codes, probably error 550 difference rule start?...
that means, your fuel injection pump is in the wrong place...
Good luck!


Hello Frank!!

I tried that too. You need to let the engine idle, then it starts again...

What surprises me is that the problem doesn't occur at all sometimes, but then again, it can happen with every kilometer...

You are also right, I had error 550, which has been disabled, but I have error 560 regarding the exhaust gas recirculation system, which I cannot delete, and error 00519 regarding the load pressure sensor, which I can delete, but it keeps coming back... I have also replaced the sensor with a new one, but it has not improved...

Maybe the MSG himself has something to do with it...

Best regards

I've disabled the AGR, so, the pressure definitely won't be released through the valve...

Low pressure is fine...Braking power is also very good...

I attached an LD indicator. If everything is functioning normally, the pressure briefly rises to 1.05, then drops to around 1 bar... I also once saw 1.3 bar, but I can't explain how that happened. It was only for a few minutes, then it was back to normal. The motor ran perfectly with the high pressure, but the performance was not different...

I unfortunately don't have the VAG com, but a friend of mine (a workshop owner) has purchased a professional version, but unfortunately he hasn't received the VAG com yet... once he does, we'll get started...

I continue to hope for your continued support.

Thank you.