Power loss in the 1.9 TDI

I bought a Passat station wagon, 35i, 1.9 TDI, with a 1Z engine, manufactured in August 1995.
Okay, I'm having the following problem:

Above an engine speed of approximately 3000 RPM, the engine will maintain a constant speed when driving in 4th and 5th gears. Go away.
I can reach a top speed of approximately 140-150 km/h.

When reading the error memory, the same error code always appears: 023F, which indicates a sporadic error related to the control difference. Sorry, I only have the Bosch KDS diagnostic tool available.

I've already considered the load dump limiting valve, but it seems to be working properly, at least when the onboard voltage is applied.

Has anyone else experienced the same problems with this vehicle and can offer some help?

Thank you, Burli.

Hi Burli,

Kilometers??? Always specify .

"On my car (Audi 80 TDI 1Z), there was a hole in a hose leading to the magnetic valve. This caused the car to go into limp mode due to excessive boost pressure when accelerating. It could be 'repaired' temporarily by briefly releasing the accelerator." There was no entry related to this in the error memory .

Best regards, Christian.

Sorry,

Okay, mileage: 180,000 km.

When you briefly release the accelerator, it speeds up again for a few seconds and then slows down again. This can be repeated multiple times.

Thank you and best regards.

Burli.

Burli wrote:

If you briefly release the accelerator, it will accelerate again for a few seconds, and then it will reduce the acceleration again. This can be repeated multiple times.

"These are exactly the same symptoms I experienced: limp mode due to excessive boost pressure -> especially check the hose that connects to the bottom of the solenoid valve... in my case, it was worn through in one spot, and also check the tightness of the hose connections for all hoses!"

And please report if you find any errors... that makes us smarter and, consequently, the Volkswagen Group poorer .

Best regards, Christian.

Hi,

Most likely, it's the solenoid valve.
Even if there is voltage applied, that doesn't necessarily mean the valve isn't mechanically defective.

I would definitely try to get at least a free trial exchange – something a good VAG workshop should always be willing to do.
Before you start searching for long!

Switch --> and enjoy the brutal acceleration beyond 140 km/h.

@markus

Okay, thanks. But the solenoid valve seems to be okay electrically and mechanically. When voltage is applied, it clearly switches back and forth between the two outputs, unfortunately. I would have preferred it if this were defective.

Okay, I'm going to start checking and/or replacing the hoses now.

Regards,

Burli.

Hi,
It's not possible to definitively determine if a magnetic valve is working correctly just by measuring it. In my case, the valve was switching correctly during the test, but the boost pressure wasn't being regulated properly while driving.
I then replaced the valve with one from an A4, and sure enough, the boost pressure was then regulated as it should be.

The magnetic valve that was defective in my car works fine in an A4, but I don't know why!

Hello everyone.

Unfortunately, I'm experiencing the same problem with my Golf III, which has 140,000 km (approximately 87,000 miles).
My mechanic suggests performing a "data logging" session while driving, where all significant data is recorded, and then analyzing that data to identify the cause of the problem.

Make sure to schedule an appointment first.

Let's see what happens.

My guess is that it's the wastegate; maybe there's a problem with the wastegate.

Hi,

It's commendable that a workshop wants to conduct its own calibration tests.

Are you certain that it's not the magnetic valve for boost pressure regulation?
In most cases (around 90%), this particular component is the culprit when describing the problem, and it's also quite inexpensive.

So, in my case, the matter is resolved for now .

The culprit was a stuck wastegate valve (boost control).

According to the information I received from the dealer where I purchased the car...
Refinement was made.

Fortunately, they are legally obligated to provide at least a one-year warranty, and they also included a new air conditioning condenser.

Okay, thanks everyone for all the posts, and I hope my response helped a little.

Hi everyone,

Burli.

Burli wrote:

The culprit was a stuck wastegate valve (boost control). According to the information I received from the dealer where I purchased the car... Refinement had.

Hi Burli,

If the workshop only opened and closed the flap a few times, it might work for a short time...
but then the whole process at the theater will likely start all over again (if I apply my experiences with VTG to your situation - thankfully, I didn't have to pay for quick fixes in the workshop ).

Do you know exactly what the workshop did?

According to what I was told, the valve was first cleaned and made operational.
After that, the guide bushings were lubricated with silicone grease.

If the problem occurs again, the warranty will still apply.

Only the fastest and most trustworthy ones seem appealing to me.
It actually took them a full 4 days to find the error and replace the climate control condenser.

I've learned my lesson, and my next used car will only be purchased from a reputable dealer, and never again from a backyard seller.

Regards,

Burli.

Burli wrote:

I've learned that I will only buy my next used car from a brand dealer and never again from a backyard dealer, at least that's what I've learned so far.

Do you think so ?

Do you think so? :lol


And why

Burli wrote:

Do you think so :lol And why

Then take a look at this:

/viewtopic.php?t=2216
/viewtopic.php?t=1671

I bought the car in October with 16,500 km as a one-year-old vehicle from a VAG dealer.

And you think you'll get better service from a dealer who sells a specific brand? Okay.

Burli wrote:

Do you think so :lol And why

These pages came into existence precisely because of the inability of several "brand dealers"...