Tie Rod for VW Golf 2

Hello,

Unfortunately, the ball joint on the left side of my wife's Volkswagen Golf 2 has worn out.
The tie rod is a component, and the defective head cannot be unscrewed separately.

What's the easiest way to remove the inner part of the tie rod from the steering linkage? There has to be a way to hold it in place because unfortunately, it rotates along with everything else.
Does the steering rack need to be removed, or is there a trick to it?

Best regards, Rainer.

Hi Rainer,


The tie rod is currently counter-locked from the inside. If you remove the bellows, you should see the locking nut behind it. According to VW, the steering gear needs to be removed when replacing the tie rod. However, only split tie rods are available in the spare parts trade now, so the inconvenience only happens once.

Edit: I mean that with some fiddling and effort, it might be possible to do this without removing anything. Loosen the lock nut, and then (try) to unscrew the tie rod. Count the turns or measure the distance while it's still installed. Or immediately go to a shop to have the alignment checked and adjusted.

Hi Mulle,

Okay, I didn't see any lock nuts inside. In my opinion, that's directly the (round) threaded rod. The connection for the tie rod is a head with internal threads and two flattened areas, which are quite difficult to access.

Is there perhaps another "extension piece" between the inner joint and the rack that is secured with a clamping mechanism?

I'll check to see if I can find another lock nut there; otherwise, I'll just remove that stuff .

Best regards, Rainer.

Hi Mulle,

hm, I didn't see any lock nuts inside, IMHO that's directly the (round) toothed rod, the connection of the tie rod is a head with internal threads and 2 flattened areas, which are really hard to reach.

Okay, these flat surfaces are the starting point for the tool. The lock nut should be located directly on top of or behind them.

Or is there another 'extension piece' that is keyed between the inner joint and the rack?

Take a look at the pictures to see if you can identify anything more precisely. B is the length that should be identical to the previous distance after the adjustment. This will then be approximately the same, but it should not replace an axle alignment/adjustment.

http://img245.

/img245/6308/spurstangewa1.png

Number 18 is the lock nut here.

http://img82.

/img82/7391/spurstange1fa6.png


I'll check if I can find another lock nut there, otherwise I'll just remove that stuff .

That will probably be the easiest thing .

You don't need to remove the steering rack. I always loosen and fold back the control arm. The tie rod can be relatively easily detached (with the steering turned fully outwards) using an open-end wrench or a good pipe wrench. The only difficult part is properly closing the clamp for the boot (original part) on the steering rack afterwards.

BM wrote:

.... The only difficult part is to properly close the clamp for the cuff (original part) on the steering gear afterward.

No... cable ties... even the TÜV (German technical inspection agency) accepts them .

Especially for Rainer... Quickly went to the warehouse, took a steering gear rack from the shelf and took pictures .

It's actually the simplest thing in the world. Don't you have something like that on your shelves?


It should be clearly visible in the picture.

It's actually the simplest thing in the world. Don't you have something like that on your shelves???




It should be clearly visible in the picture.

You can also clearly see the lock nut .

http://img167.

/img167/4756/img2484modjo6.jpg

Quote:

No... cable ties... even the TÜV (German technical inspection agency) accepts them. icon_mrgreen.gif

Hm, it's certainly possible, but it's not the most elegant way. At Ford, some of these parts are even secured with wire. It then looks like a bottle of sparkling wine.

Quote:

You can also clearly see the lock nut icon_wink.gif

.

It's been a while, but weren't those lock nuts only used on the Go1?

Hello everyone,

Thank you for the tips! After I bit off the grease and pushed the collar all the way back, there was suddenly a lock nut .

"Ironically, the tie rod was the least of my problems. I also had to deal with the front brakes and the rear left brake (poor braking performance with the foot brake, handbrake is okay)."
The awesome, cheap disc brake pads from the accessories were really great again: Too thick. I then looked at the packaging again, but they should have been the 'correct' ones. Do those strange, double-sealed stickers on the package actually mean: taken out twice, exchanged, and put in the wrong box?

Now that I've used a file and wood rasp, I finally understand what all that endless filing was for during the introductory internship...

After I had "actually" finished, I noticed that one of the exhaust hangers was loose. I quickly turned on the angle grinder and welding equipment... no wire comes .
Okay, so first, let's disassemble the wire feed mechanism... The set screw on the feed roller was loose.

Okay, so the Golf still needs to last for another three-quarters of a year, then this good piece (currently with 120,000 km) will be up for sale. It's even completely untuned, with its original 55 horsepower .

My wife then thoroughly tested the brakes on the way back from Selb, following behind me. I've gotten into the habit of just lightly tapping the brakes shortly before a turn, but somehow my wife has a strange ambition about it; I heard the tires squeal twice and saw a swerving G2 in the rearview mirror... I wonder if I can really put them in a 165 horsepower car next year. }

Best regards, Rainer.

Rainer K. wrote:

The awesome cheap disc brake pads from the accessories were really great again: Too thick. I then looked at the packaging again, but they should have been the "correct" ones.

I once had a similar issue with the rear brakes on my G3. Apparently (at least according to what the parts supplier told me, and they were definitely cheap brake pads), there are different types of brake pads available. They said there were ones for new rotors and ones for worn rotors. I suspect it might have been related to the manufacturing year, with some being thicker than others.

Hi,

Yes, I also think that these are pads for other discs/guides. The overlapping seal stickers indicate that the package has been opened and filled multiple times, presumably ultimately or each time with the wrong contents.

Best regards, Rainer.