New (?) ESP - Difficult MSW after 1000KM??

Hello,

I installed a new (?) ESP in my Audi 80 TDI because the cleaning of the old one no longer worked.
When I replaced the old one, I bought a new one and installed it. The new one looked like it hadn't been installed in a console before. I couldn't see any screw holes either. It was equipped with both forward and reverse functionality.

Except for the fact that the performance is quite sluggish from 3500 RPM, especially at 3800 RPM, with the old one reaching 4100 RPM – I was satisfied with the handling.
The cause of the performance issue, according to the local Bosch service, is the 426,000 KM old LMM (Pierburg). I could have compensated for this by skillfully positioning the MSW on the old pump, thereby ensuring that enough diesel was injected for full performance.
On the old ESP, I had soot deposits around the exhaust. Now, with the new one, there's nothing left.

Since my laptop battery is defective, I unfortunately haven't been able to create a log to check it yet.

Now, after approximately 1000 km, I experience a slight jerk in 4th and 5th gear at 1400 RPM while in slight overdrive. If I disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission, the jerk disappears. This seems to indicate a problem with a difficult-to-operate MSW (Manual Speedometer Wire). But after 1000 KM?

After my attempt to verschandeln the old ESP, I replaced the DiFi, but since I had only driven 600 km before installing the new ESP, I didn't replace it yet.
Did I flush the old one out with the new ESP that had metal shavings from it?


When investigating the performance issues, I checked the adaptation channels. Channel 1 was set to 108, channel 2 was set to 106, channel 3 was set to 128, and channel 4 was set to 78 (?!). I have set all channels except channel 4 back to the factory setting of 128. Afterwards, the idle time was rounder, and the performance was slightly better.

Where I need advice, I have ruined the pump with the 600 KM old DiFi, or has the pump been damaged due to - incorrect storage - internal rust, skillful casing lifting - old instead of new?

Or am I making the search for the cause of the jerky motion too simple (If the speedometer is jerky - but not the others - therefore MSW)? I've already searched the forum, but it seems no one else has had this problem with a new pump.

Here are the data for the new ESP - maybe someone can read more from it than I can.
0460 404 971
R510 3 BT 4015
028 130 115 M
011 081 280952

On the MSW, it still says:
HDK 192
FD 081
209928

Desperately hoping for advice

MichaelJ

Hello,

has anyone really got any advice or ideas? I need to think carefully about what I'm going to do, because 750€ for a broken pump is simply too much.
What are the ways to check the pump in its installed state without opening it?

Greetings
MichaelJ

Okay, so, I went to the friendly Bosch service, and they checked out the pump. According to the hysteresis test, the MSW is fine. I couldn't get an explanation for the shaking .

I have now managed to create a log . I can't see any reason why he's no longer performing well, but maybe I'm just being blind .

Could the performance issue be due to the new camshaft/hydros? The manufacturer is AE, and the part number is CAM441. What's confusing is the fact that this manufacturer, unlike VAG, doesn't differentiate between 028 109 101E (up to 1993) and 028 109 101F (from 1994). Are the camshafts the same?

Hello,
Regarding your performance issues/stalling, the air mass sensor is likely the culprit. The air mass is already too low from 2000 Upm. In your case, the fuel cutoff limit is being triggered. Before you install a new LMM, you can first try testing it with a diode.

Greetings
Reuselkopp

Hello Reuselkopp,

I just installed a new mass airflow sensor - but it hasn't really made a difference. What next?
I checked the air mass of another 1Z TDI engine, and it was 500 at idle!
Why is this so low for me? According to the other driver, he easily reaches 4500 U/min.

Greetings

MichaelJ

Hello,
Your friend probably disabled the AGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation system), and as a result, the air mass at idle is approximately double that of a system with a functioning AGR.

In your log, the air mass is indeed higher, but still much too low. However, your boost pressure is optimal. When was the air filter last replaced? Is something clogged on the intake side? Is everything on the intake side sealed? Maybe he's just getting bad air somewhere after the LMM.

It is also not uncommon for new LMMs to be defective. Maybe you could ask your friend if you could exchange the LMM for testing purposes and then reinstall it again.

Just a thought, though. Could it be that someone tampered with the housing of the magnetic valve, perhaps shifting the entire valve to the left, so that the operating range of the control lever can no longer properly close the throttle bore?

@Daily Soup,
and how do you explain the much too low LMM values? I would first look for blockages or leaks on the suction side. You must surely be mistaken about something...

Greetings
Reuselkopp

As mentioned, ONE theory.
The possibility of the LMM being affected by air leaks seems plausible. Also, inspect the intake hoses on the underside for areas of damage.
But initially, the LMM theory didn't seem so obvious to me, because the problem was associated with exchanging ESPs.