Question about the injector/injector seat

I read Reiner's repair manual, and there are still a few things that are unclear to me before I proceed.
Remove the injector nozzles and inspect and possibly replace the fuel injectors.

When you unscrew the injector nozzle from the injector holder, do the internal components fall out? Feather or...?
'Something different about the pressure release system?' It says something like: 'If you unscrew the nozzle holder, the nozzle might...'
solve it and let everything fall apart.

As an original replacement part, you only get the injector holder. Does that have anything to do with the opening pressure?
can change due to wear (e.g., a leaking nozzle), and in that case, it's always better to use the...
Should the entire fuel injector assembly be replaced? I don't have a pressure gauge to adjust the...
Opening pressure.

(Straight price inquiry: 4 original Bosch fuel injectors for approximately €400, and all injector bodies for approximately €1000; 81 kW AFN engine).

If you disassemble the fuel injector, you'll naturally hold it upside down.

What Rainer means by "spinning it out" is that if the nozzle insert or the outer casing is stuck in the head, and you then turn the actual nozzle holder at the back, it's possible that you'll unscrew the nozzle holder from the outer casing. Since you're holding it the right way in this case, everything will logically fall out.

When adjusting the pressure, you don't rely on the pressure gauge, but rather on the thickness of the adjustment shim. It's obvious that there are no target values for this. You simply measure the pressure, and if it's too high, you insert a thinner disc, and if it's too low, you insert a thicker one.

When adjusting the pressure, you don't rely on the pressure gauge, but rather on the thickness of the adjustment shim. It's obvious that there are no target values for this. You simply measure the pressure, and if it's too high, you put in a thinner shim, and if it's too low, you put in a thicker one.
What now?
Are you measuring the pressure without a pressure gauge (barometer)?
There has to be a way to determine if the fuel injection amount is correct; either the injector is firing too early or too late.
turn on. A trained eye might notice it in the spray pattern on the paper – I would need to check the barometer for that.
and I don't have one.
The 191 bar pressure must be set correctly; otherwise, the engine won't run smoothly, or the control unit will calculate the wrong fuel injection amount.

The question now is whether a simple injector replacement is sufficient for a vehicle with 200,000 km (approximately 124,000 miles) on the odometer, or whether something more extensive is needed.
The nozzle block should be replaced.
When I take a snapshot, one might be slightly blurry, while another might show some streaking, etc.
It's probably only with new injectors that you can see at what pressure one starts to open, I think.
I don't want to replace the injectors unnecessarily, only to find out later that I also need new injector sleeves.
I have to try this now for the first time, and I don't have any experience with it.

Sure, here's the translation:

"I read the entire text and still misspelled something myself." I read "Durchmesser" instead of "Druckmesser" and actually wanted to write that.

Of course you need a pressure gauge; it's not possible to do it without one. However, at 200,000 kilometers, only the nozzles should need to be replaced.

You can precisely adjust 191 bar, but you'll probably forget. No, you can't adjust the accuracy to 1 bar. A change of just 0.1 mm in the thickness of the adjustment plate can cause a pressure change of approximately 10 bar.

Okay, thank you very much.
Okay, then I'll go get the fuel injectors.

And if one is dripping, what is broken, or is the injector sealing properly?

bastl wrote:

And if one is dripping, what is broken or is the injector sealing properly?

Then you have to check where it's leaking. New nozzles should actually be tight. You have to pay close attention to cleanliness when disassembling and reassembling. The sealing surface must be completely clean, otherwise it won't seal properly.

You're welcome, thank you.

Hi!

I don't know how you imagine it.
But without a device like that, it won't work.

That should be available in almost every workshop.

Hi Steffen!

TDI-GTI-4-Motion wrote:

Of course, you need a pressure gauge; it's not possible without one.

What did I write here?

I don't know how you imagine it,
but without such a device, it won't work.
What is a casting device? - I'm not familiar with that.
And a second opinion is always welcome - please share your thoughts on how you see this or how you would approach it.

bastl wrote:

What is a pressure device?

It's the same as a pressure gauge. There are many different names for it. You'll have to depressurize the nozzles now, and determine the opening pressure; there's no good alternative.

This is a lever with a small pump underneath and a diesel tank on top, along with a line leading to the nozzle. The old parts cost approximately 350 euros.
The pump is activated, and the opening pressure is read when the nozzle just begins to spray. The spray pattern is observed to ensure it is properly atomized and uniform.

Okay, thank you.
It either costs money, or you have to borrow it.
Car dealerships probably won't be happy to lend those out.
Okay, I'm going to adjust the injectors now. If it then runs at full power and smoothly, I won't need to do anything else.

You don't necessarily have to lend it to them. You can do it there; it will take about 5-10 minutes.

I replaced all the nozzles, and of course, they were all broken (only 1-3 holes were open in each nozzle).
Everything worked perfectly, and the engine is running smoothly again with full power, especially when starting.

Quote:

I replaced the nozzles, of course, all of them, and they were all broken (only 1-3 holes per nozzle were open). Everything worked perfectly, and the engine is running smoothly and has full power again, especially when starting.

Did you check the opening pressure of the old nozzles before removing them? I would be interested in seeing the values.
What kind of nozzles did you install?